Leatherseats.com Seat covers
12-14-06, 12:55 PM
#2
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I personally haven't had any experience with them,but those prices are awfully high..You can have a good upholstery shop re-upholster your seats for that kind of money...
12-14-06, 01:53 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by Authentikdit
I personally haven't had any experience with them,but those prices are awfully high..You can have a good upholstery shop re-upholster your seats for that kind of money...
Getting cloth seats recovered is about $150 +/- PER seat. Leather gets very expensive. **EDIT** That price doesn't including rebuilding bolsters and warn spots.
12-14-06, 04:25 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by hurleysurf24
how would i go about rebuilding my bulster
Mine was just a little worn on the drivers side back so I just cut a strip of pillow foam and glued in on top of the old foam, the new leather is so tight it's not going anywher.
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12-14-06, 05:21 PM
#8
How to repair your seat bottom bolster
The leatherseats.com vert covers are fine. Anyone who thinks you can get leather seats redone cheaper is probably kidding themselves.
I have a set on my vert and they are a little looser than the oem leather, but it is fine.
Regarding the foam on the lower outside drivers bolster: When you get the seat apart, you will find that there is a 1/4" rod that is part of the seat frame. The rod follows the contour of the bolster and fits into a slot in the foam. This supports the bolster. Over time, as we sit our *** on the bolster when entering and exiting the car, eventually the rod cuts through the foam. The foam is not mishappen or worn out. It is just cut in two.
In the slot that contains the support rod you will find random direction fiber mat backing(on my seat it was blue) that originally spread the force around preventing
the rod from splitting the foam. When that fiber mat eventually fails, the foam splits.
To repair this I did the following steps.
1.To prevent as much as possible a repeat of the damage, bend the rod downward and outward to effectively lower the final position of the bolster. This also has the effect of spreading the seat bottom into a wider position. When the drivers door is closed, the bolster should have about 1/2" clearance. This works out well. When you get in and out of the car, your *** will now clear the bolster.
2. Glue the bolster pieces together with contact cement. Let it set overnight.
3. Using contact cement glue two layers of tightly woven burlap into the slot where the rod will go. Measure and cut the burlap before you use any glue. Take care to cut the burlap so that the weave is on a 45 degree angle to the direction of the rod. This way you gain the maximum number of strands crossing the rod. The burlap should cover the entire inside of the bolster, not just the top of the slot. The idea is to spread the force of the rod into the entire bottom of the bolster. The force now is not concentrated in the top of the slot.
Buy a gallon of contact cement. Use a 1-1/2" paint brush to apply several coats into the inner surface of the slot, letting each coat dry before applying the next.
You then dip the burlap into the contact cement and lay it into the slot. Tuck it all the way up. This is very similar to laying fiberglass in resin. Apply each layer one at a time, allowing that layer to dry completely before adding the next.
When you are done, the bolster is good as new, maybe better. It will be out of the way making it easier to get in and out of the car.
I have a set on my vert and they are a little looser than the oem leather, but it is fine.
Regarding the foam on the lower outside drivers bolster: When you get the seat apart, you will find that there is a 1/4" rod that is part of the seat frame. The rod follows the contour of the bolster and fits into a slot in the foam. This supports the bolster. Over time, as we sit our *** on the bolster when entering and exiting the car, eventually the rod cuts through the foam. The foam is not mishappen or worn out. It is just cut in two.
In the slot that contains the support rod you will find random direction fiber mat backing(on my seat it was blue) that originally spread the force around preventing
the rod from splitting the foam. When that fiber mat eventually fails, the foam splits.
To repair this I did the following steps.
1.To prevent as much as possible a repeat of the damage, bend the rod downward and outward to effectively lower the final position of the bolster. This also has the effect of spreading the seat bottom into a wider position. When the drivers door is closed, the bolster should have about 1/2" clearance. This works out well. When you get in and out of the car, your *** will now clear the bolster.
2. Glue the bolster pieces together with contact cement. Let it set overnight.
3. Using contact cement glue two layers of tightly woven burlap into the slot where the rod will go. Measure and cut the burlap before you use any glue. Take care to cut the burlap so that the weave is on a 45 degree angle to the direction of the rod. This way you gain the maximum number of strands crossing the rod. The burlap should cover the entire inside of the bolster, not just the top of the slot. The idea is to spread the force of the rod into the entire bottom of the bolster. The force now is not concentrated in the top of the slot.
Buy a gallon of contact cement. Use a 1-1/2" paint brush to apply several coats into the inner surface of the slot, letting each coat dry before applying the next.
You then dip the burlap into the contact cement and lay it into the slot. Tuck it all the way up. This is very similar to laying fiberglass in resin. Apply each layer one at a time, allowing that layer to dry completely before adding the next.
When you are done, the bolster is good as new, maybe better. It will be out of the way making it easier to get in and out of the car.
12-14-06, 06:55 PM
#9
i ordered a set of black ones a month ago for the '89 vert ... i haven't put them on yet but they look great out of the box. Very pleased with the purchase . I had the perforation option on the seat and back done as well.
The only difference from original is there is no map pocket and the headrest perforations for the speakers extend to the top of the headrest instead of stopping at the front/top bend location. You might mention this to them if you get them. The map pocket was not a surprise , they said this would not be put in
The only difference from original is there is no map pocket and the headrest perforations for the speakers extend to the top of the headrest instead of stopping at the front/top bend location. You might mention this to them if you get them. The map pocket was not a surprise , they said this would not be put in
12-15-06, 06:36 PM
#13
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I had my seats redone by them since I live in Oklahoma and their shop was about 20 minutes from my house. Everything looks 1st rate and after almost a year they still look perfect. Mine were gray, and I had them redone in black with gray center panels and the headrests were done in black. They redid my bolsters for me too.
In other words, I would recommend them in a heartbeat.
In other words, I would recommend them in a heartbeat.
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