Leaning out A/F Mixture (N/A )
Leaning out A/F Mixture (N/A )
Hey i was wondering what the cheapest + best way to lean out my NA, shes def running rich, Im pretty sure even drilling a self tapping screw of the right size into the top of the fuel regulator might allow me to adjust it. Any reccomendations?
turn the screw on the variable resistor tward the L. that will lean it out somewhat. or you could go the expensive route and but a wideband O2 sensor. Do a search on this forum you will find a wealth of info on this.
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
I would try to do some testing/maintenance and actually find out why the car is running so rich before trying to rig up something else to lean it out. True, rotaries need to run rich by nature so the ecu is set up richer than most any other car on the road, but if you have no fuel or exhaust leaks you should not really notice.
The "proper" way to do this would be to use a wideband o2 to check and see where you stand, and then use some sort of programmable/adjustable computer to tune the fuel, the easiest being an SAFC. This way you can trim fuel on the low end/midrange where it is too rich and hurts economy, and add fuel on the top end where you need it for power.
A couple of old school AFR hacks used to involve the AFM and water thermosensor. Since the ecu varies fuel injection based on water temp, you could use resistors or a pentiometer inline with the thermosensor wiring to fool the ecu into running richer/leaner, because it thinks the coolant temperature is different than what it is. You can also pry the black cover off the top of the AFM and turn the big gear a few teeth clicks to change the calibration...making the flapper easier to push open will cause the car to run richer at the same airflow level, making the flapper harder to push open will cause it to run leaner.
There is also an air bypass screw on the AFM that will allow you to slightly alter the calibration, and if desired reset it back to stock later. Turning the screw clockwise makes the car run richer, turning it CCW makes it run leaner.
The problem with these hacks is that they make changes across the load/rpm range, not just in the areas you need the changes. For instance, taking 10% fuel away across the board might help the car idle and cruise more efficiently, but might hurt power and cause a starvation problem on the top end. This is why a selective fuel controller is needed.
The "proper" way to do this would be to use a wideband o2 to check and see where you stand, and then use some sort of programmable/adjustable computer to tune the fuel, the easiest being an SAFC. This way you can trim fuel on the low end/midrange where it is too rich and hurts economy, and add fuel on the top end where you need it for power.
A couple of old school AFR hacks used to involve the AFM and water thermosensor. Since the ecu varies fuel injection based on water temp, you could use resistors or a pentiometer inline with the thermosensor wiring to fool the ecu into running richer/leaner, because it thinks the coolant temperature is different than what it is. You can also pry the black cover off the top of the AFM and turn the big gear a few teeth clicks to change the calibration...making the flapper easier to push open will cause the car to run richer at the same airflow level, making the flapper harder to push open will cause it to run leaner.
There is also an air bypass screw on the AFM that will allow you to slightly alter the calibration, and if desired reset it back to stock later. Turning the screw clockwise makes the car run richer, turning it CCW makes it run leaner.
The problem with these hacks is that they make changes across the load/rpm range, not just in the areas you need the changes. For instance, taking 10% fuel away across the board might help the car idle and cruise more efficiently, but might hurt power and cause a starvation problem on the top end. This is why a selective fuel controller is needed.
Ya ive played with the bypass screw a bit however, If i set it lean so it has some power while driving the idle is really boggy, and it stalls at a stop. If i richen the mixture via the bypass screw It will stay idling but no more power and 10 bucks gas a day. grrrrr
perhaps adjusting this variable resistor would be more of a help? maybe point me towards it so i could fiddle? cheers
perhaps adjusting this variable resistor would be more of a help? maybe point me towards it so i could fiddle? cheers
Last edited by ziplock; May 4, 2007 at 03:17 PM.
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Originally Posted by TehMonkay
The variable resistor is for low rpm speeds only, check the fsm for how to properly adjust it.
I have a adobe acrobat fsm and im having a lot of trouble finding the variable resistor let alone its adjustment instructions, as there is no search feature with scanned immages. where roughly is this thing please? what system does it fall under, ignition?
I richened up the idle from the variable resistor, and leaned out the bypass screw on the TB, seems much more peppy, hoping that will fix the milage issue a little. THanks again guys
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