Lean issue when secondaries "kick on"
#151
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Ok...I suspected that my multimeter was shot, so I went and picked up a new one and I was right.
Here are the results with the new multimeter:
(All done with key on, car not started)
Battery: 12.40v
Black/White (at green connector): 12.39v
Black/White (at pressure sensor): 12.33v
Brown/White (at pressure sensor): 4.99-5.01v
So am I safe to assume that the ECU and sensor is ok?
Here are the results with the new multimeter:
(All done with key on, car not started)
Battery: 12.40v
Black/White (at green connector): 12.39v
Black/White (at pressure sensor): 12.33v
Brown/White (at pressure sensor): 4.99-5.01v
So am I safe to assume that the ECU and sensor is ok?
#152
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Ok...I suspected that my multimeter was shot, so I went and picked up a new one and I was right.
Here are the results with the new multimeter:
(All done with key on, car not started)
Battery: 12.40v
Black/White (at green connector): 12.39v
Black/White (at pressure sensor): 12.33v
Brown/White (at pressure sensor): 4.99-5.01v
So am I safe to assume that the ECU and sensor is ok?
Here are the results with the new multimeter:
(All done with key on, car not started)
Battery: 12.40v
Black/White (at green connector): 12.39v
Black/White (at pressure sensor): 12.33v
Brown/White (at pressure sensor): 4.99-5.01v
So am I safe to assume that the ECU and sensor is ok?
#153
Sharp Claws
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hopefully you guys are going somewhere with this, the pressure sensor is one of the least necessary components to the stock management system. first being the airflow meter, and also strangely one of the most difficult components to test accurately(acts much different when voltage is applied compared to doing resistance checks).
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-25-12 at 05:33 PM.
#155
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That's better than the original reading. One thing you might want to do is w/the car in neutral and rev the engine (after the car has warmed up properly) and take notice on how the engine responds. Then pull the vacuum hose off of the Boost Sensor and cap it followed by disconnecting the TPS sensor. Once done do as previously and free rev the engine once again while in neutral and see if the engine behaves much the same or rather differently.
#156
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That's better than the original reading. One thing you might want to do is w/the car in neutral and rev the engine (after the car has warmed up properly) and take notice on how the engine responds. Then pull the vacuum hose off of the Boost Sensor and cap it followed by disconnecting the TPS sensor. Once done do as previously and free rev the engine once again while in neutral and see if the engine behaves much the same or rather differently.
#157
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hopefully you guys are going somewhere with this, the pressure sensor is one of the least necessary components to the stock management system. first being the airflow meter, and also strangely one of the most difficult components to test accurately(acts much different when voltage is applied compared to doing resistance checks).
#158
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In other words, you're afraid of the dark! When you rev the engine in a normal scenario the secondary injectors will not come on line. When you put the engine under load and rev above 3800 rpm the secondary injectors do fire. Messing w/the Bosst sensor and TPS will place the car under load so when you free rev the second time around the secondary injectors should fire if reved above 3800 rpm. So in doing this you will be comparing two different situations. One where the secondaries won't fire versus one that does.
#160
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In other words, you're afraid of the dark! When you rev the engine in a normal scenario the secondary injectors will not come on line. When you put the engine under load and rev above 3800 rpm the secondary injectors do fire. Messing w/the Bosst sensor and TPS will place the car under load so when you free rev the second time around the secondary injectors should fire if reved above 3800 rpm. So in doing this you will be comparing two different situations. One where the secondaries won't fire versus one that does.
Thanks for the help so far. I hope I can resolve this asap.
#163
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Iam having the same problem with my car (also has a rtek 2.0 on a na s4 car) I threw every part I could think of at this with no effect so I got a aeromotive FRP and noticed that my fuel pressure drops just by reving the car at idle.
The car hits a wall between 5k-6k the car goes really lean wideband goes up past 18 the narrow band then reads 0.
If I look at the FRP gauge it drops to 30 psi during free rev so I just ordered a new aeromotive 340 fuel pump hopefully this will fix the problem.
Also it I use light throttle I can get past the wall but still can not go full throttle.
So I am placing the problem to a bad fuel pump due to the fuel pressure drop. I will know next week when the pump arrives.
If not I have a wolf 3d stand alone I will be installing and throwing the rtek in the trash.
The car hits a wall between 5k-6k the car goes really lean wideband goes up past 18 the narrow band then reads 0.
If I look at the FRP gauge it drops to 30 psi during free rev so I just ordered a new aeromotive 340 fuel pump hopefully this will fix the problem.
Also it I use light throttle I can get past the wall but still can not go full throttle.
So I am placing the problem to a bad fuel pump due to the fuel pressure drop. I will know next week when the pump arrives.
If not I have a wolf 3d stand alone I will be installing and throwing the rtek in the trash.
#165
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In other words, you're afraid of the dark! When you rev the engine in a normal scenario the secondary injectors will not come on line. When you put the engine under load and rev above 3800 rpm the secondary injectors do fire. Messing w/the Bosst sensor and TPS will place the car under load so when you free rev the second time around the secondary injectors should fire if reved above 3800 rpm. So in doing this you will be comparing two different situations. One where the secondaries won't fire versus one that does.
If I just have the car started, standing, in neutral, and try to rev it by hitting the accelerator all the way down, it bogs and hits a wall. It won't rev up past 2.5-3k unless I only give it a little throttle (1/3 of the accelerator pedal). Then it revs all the way up.
#166
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Well I never had any issues with reman AFM's before (for other cars). But they do have a 30 day return policy, so if it doesn't work, I could always return it and try another one.
#167
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Even though you replaced the fuel pump you might want to check the fuel pressure. And an easy thing to check is the voltage on pin 3C and 3E of the ECU as they should both have 12 volts w/key to on. Doing so helps to verify that the injector plugs for the Primary injectors are properly secured. If that all checks out then you could try bypassing the fuel pump relay and resistor located under the air box. This device boosts the voltage to the fuel pump when the engine is asked to accelerate rather quickly. If the plug to the unit is disconnected then one of the Blue/Red wires would be jumpered to one of the Blue wires and it will be bypassed thus sending 12 volts to the fuel pump at all times. And clogged primary injectors could also be your problem.
#168
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Even though you replaced the fuel pump you might want to check the fuel pressure. And an easy thing to check is the voltage on pin 3C and 3E as they should both have 12 volts w/key to on. Doing so helps to verify that the injector plugs for the Primary injectors are properly secured.
#169
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It's easier to do the other things (measuring the injector pin voltage, bypassing the relay), and if that doesn't help any then you can rent a fuel pressure gauge from the establishment that you plan on borrowing the AFM from. Placing the gauge teed inline after the fuel filter and before the engine will suffice. Should read between 30 to 40 psi depending on the scenario at hand. Or you can place it as the fuel leaves the engine via the return line.
#170
...Serf of Taxifornia...
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Iam having the same problem with my car (also has a rtek 2.0 on a na s4 car) I threw every part I could think of at this with no effect so I got a aeromotive FRP and noticed that my fuel pressure drops just by reving the car at idle.
The car hits a wall between 5k-6k the car goes really lean wideband goes up past 18 the narrow band then reads 0.
If I look at the FRP gauge it drops to 30 psi during free rev so I just ordered a new aeromotive 340 fuel pump hopefully this will fix the problem.
Also it I use light throttle I can get past the wall but still can not go full throttle.
So I am placing the problem to a bad fuel pump due to the fuel pressure drop. I will know next week when the pump arrives.
If not I have a wolf 3d stand alone I will be installing and throwing the rtek in the trash.
The car hits a wall between 5k-6k the car goes really lean wideband goes up past 18 the narrow band then reads 0.
If I look at the FRP gauge it drops to 30 psi during free rev so I just ordered a new aeromotive 340 fuel pump hopefully this will fix the problem.
Also it I use light throttle I can get past the wall but still can not go full throttle.
So I am placing the problem to a bad fuel pump due to the fuel pressure drop. I will know next week when the pump arrives.
If not I have a wolf 3d stand alone I will be installing and throwing the rtek in the trash.
If you're having a fuel pressure problem, it's probably not caused by a bad ECU. Doesn't the Wolf standalone require some setup effort, in which case you'd be complicating the issue? Once you get past the fuel pressure hurdle, you can use logging on the RTek to troubleshoot further.
#171
^^^+1
Stop blaming the ecu because your car is in poor condition.
Also, rising rate fprs respond to both boost AND vac, so it is perfectly normal for fuel pressure to drop when you rev an n/a as vac is increased. The only thing faulty is the logic.
Have fun wasting money on a 340lph pump for an n/a.
Stop blaming the ecu because your car is in poor condition.
Also, rising rate fprs respond to both boost AND vac, so it is perfectly normal for fuel pressure to drop when you rev an n/a as vac is increased. The only thing faulty is the logic.
Have fun wasting money on a 340lph pump for an n/a.
#172
Sharp Claws
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issues only in the 4k+ range are almost always just secondary injector related on the n/a cars. there just isn't much else that will cause it to bog out. well aside from a plugged up cat that is.
turbo cars are a little more complicated with possible boost leaks, rising rate fuel pressure and fuel cut in the system.
BUT
fuel pressure dropping when opening the throttle is not normal, the fuel pressure should rise as vacuum gets closer to 0"Hg. n/a cars stop raising pressure at atmospheric, turbo cars have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that keeps increasing the fuel pressure 1 psi per psi of boost that is generated in the intake system, this keeps the fuel system completely neutral.
turbo cars are a little more complicated with possible boost leaks, rising rate fuel pressure and fuel cut in the system.
BUT
fuel pressure dropping when opening the throttle is not normal, the fuel pressure should rise as vacuum gets closer to 0"Hg. n/a cars stop raising pressure at atmospheric, turbo cars have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator that keeps increasing the fuel pressure 1 psi per psi of boost that is generated in the intake system, this keeps the fuel system completely neutral.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 01-26-12 at 01:48 PM.
#173
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Ok, updates:
1. All pins for primary and secondary injectors @ ECU: 12.33-12.35v
2a. TPS Green/White wire voltage (plugged in, key on): WAS 1.392v....set it to 1.006v
2b. Also checked the TPS resistance (unplugged): was about 1092 ohms....set it to 1001 ohms
3. Replaced Spark plug wires
4. Replaced AFM
Same issue, but now after I adjusted the TPS, there's a new symptom: After 20-25 min of driving (maybe after it warms up?), it will not hold RPM's and now I can barely drive it, even when keeping it in vacuum. If I press harder on the accelerator (to get it to even start boosting), all power is lost, RPM's fall, and car dies. It's impossible to drive. I couldn't even make it out of the parking lot. Stalled 8 times.
1. All pins for primary and secondary injectors @ ECU: 12.33-12.35v
2a. TPS Green/White wire voltage (plugged in, key on): WAS 1.392v....set it to 1.006v
2b. Also checked the TPS resistance (unplugged): was about 1092 ohms....set it to 1001 ohms
3. Replaced Spark plug wires
4. Replaced AFM
Same issue, but now after I adjusted the TPS, there's a new symptom: After 20-25 min of driving (maybe after it warms up?), it will not hold RPM's and now I can barely drive it, even when keeping it in vacuum. If I press harder on the accelerator (to get it to even start boosting), all power is lost, RPM's fall, and car dies. It's impossible to drive. I couldn't even make it out of the parking lot. Stalled 8 times.
#174
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Ok, updates:
1. All pins for primary and secondary injectors @ ECU: 12.33-12.35v
2a. TPS Green/White wire voltage (plugged in, key on): WAS 1.392v....set it to 1.006v
2b. Also checked the TPS resistance (unplugged): was about 1092 ohms....set it to 1001 ohms
3. Replaced Spark plug wires
4. Replaced AFM
Same issue, but now after I adjusted the TPS, there's a new symptom: After 20-25 min of driving (maybe after it warms up?), it will not hold RPM's and now I can barely drive it, even when keeping it in vacuum. If I press harder on the accelerator (to get it to even start boosting), all power is lost, RPM's fall, and car dies. It's impossible to drive. I couldn't even make it out of the parking lot. Stalled 8 times.
1. All pins for primary and secondary injectors @ ECU: 12.33-12.35v
2a. TPS Green/White wire voltage (plugged in, key on): WAS 1.392v....set it to 1.006v
2b. Also checked the TPS resistance (unplugged): was about 1092 ohms....set it to 1001 ohms
3. Replaced Spark plug wires
4. Replaced AFM
Same issue, but now after I adjusted the TPS, there's a new symptom: After 20-25 min of driving (maybe after it warms up?), it will not hold RPM's and now I can barely drive it, even when keeping it in vacuum. If I press harder on the accelerator (to get it to even start boosting), all power is lost, RPM's fall, and car dies. It's impossible to drive. I couldn't even make it out of the parking lot. Stalled 8 times.