Finally my car is running alittle better, it does not bog/hesitate as much, I had adjusted the little screw by the boost sensor and it seem to have cured the bogging a decent amount. I think it was idling to rich, then when I would give it throttle, that is what caused it to bog, It was at 11.5:1 and I upped it to 13:1 at idle, but now when driving aorund 1500-3000 rpm the afrs are around 13.5-15:1......

Anyways this was happening before, when ever I let off of the throttle, the AFRS skyrocket!!! In the 20:1++++m range and back fires/pops ALOT! It did this before I turned the idle fuel mixture screw. Since the engine is still in breakin, I have not revved it over 3K, but just doing laps on my driveway when I am driving and in first gear at about 2500rpm or so and let off the throttle the AFRS shoot up and the car backfires/pops ALOT. The car idles great, and the TPS/acelerator free play cable was adjusted to spec....

What can be done to fix this problem?

Here is a list of mods on the car:

Fresh Reman, Blitz BOV, Just reinstalled stock air box, 2.5" to 3" exhaust allt he way w/ no cats(still have airpump/ACV installed), Injectors were cleaned and balance by RC about 2 weeks ago, new fuel filter, ummm thats about all I can think of that has been done....

 

Your afr shoots to 20:1 because the car automatically cuts fuel upon decelleration... this is perfectly normal behavior.. nothing to worry about, it's built into the ecu

 

The popping (afterburn) is very normal when you lose the cats, although your ACV may have some issues. I had major afterburn when I simply upgraded my exhaust and intake systems and kept the cat. And as Chris Ng said, the ECU entirely cuts fuel to the engine on decel so your AFR should be approaching free air as the exhaust pipe starts to clear of residual fumes.

 

It's ******' normal...


-Ted

 

heh, just thought it was an interseting quote...

 

Wow I never knew that, I thought the amount of fuel injected would be the same as at idle. Can't that cause detenation oh deceleration?

So I guess cruising in a gear with no throttle input is not bad then?

 

You're one of those, give them a few tools and you get into trouble.

I think I commented in your wide-band thread that it's normal?
But it looks like you don't listen.

You need to read up on what detonation is.
You can't detonate when the engine isn't in heavy load.
Decel is NOT heavy load.
Cruising highway speeds is NOT heavy load.

If you got a boost gauge, ANYTHING under 0 (i.e. vacuum) is NOT heavy load.

Your wide-band is really only good for one thing - WOT.

Stop trying to interpret the wide-band at anything other than WOT.
If you have no idea how the ECU reacts other than WOT, you have no business questioning if it's wrong or not.


-Ted

 

When just tooling around the driveway, disconnect your 02 sensor. The results seen on the afr meter will probably be a touch different. The ECU is trying its best to maintain a fourteen point seven when connected and your tps is still not fully extended. Remember that when you are playing with your safc and trying to lean/richen your afr. Been there....made that mistake.

One heck of a big driveway you got there.

 

So I guess when my engine detonated last October crusing at 2500rpms, wasn't really detonation???? I heard a LOUD pop and bam! No power, couldn't idle, couldn't drive! Took the car part looked at the rotors, hot damn! I blew two apex seals!

I will admit, I am not bright with the electroincs in cars. But I have disassembled and assembled quite a few cars in my few years on the this earth, and I have not had ANY trouble with them until I got my TII.

Go figure!

 

Haven't installed the SAFC yet, will prolly do it some time this week, I want to get all the bugs out before I do so.

Yeah my driveway is about 1/4 of a mile long, did a few laps and now have 2 miles on it Still need to fix my brake problem before i go on the road.

 

This is almost impossible to do.
There was something already wrong with the engine to cause it to fail.
There is no way a perfectly running engine, cruising on the freeway with no load at 2,500RPM, would detonate and kill itself.


-Ted

 

My 2 cents...
I agree with TED here...Do some research!!

 

What Ted said...

 

I disconnected the stock O2 sensor, it did nothing, it might be bad then..

So I guess my engine didn't blow then! 102psi in front rotor and 0psi in rear, hmmmmm interesting!

 

Nobody said it didn't blow. It just wasn't detonation that caused it.

 

So your saying you have 0 psi all arounf on the rear.

 

Oh, trust me, a rotary will do just that. The only one that went on me was my 82. Ran just fine. Got up to go to Jury Duty. Doing maybe 45mph, no stress, no strain. Then I really don't remember the sound, but it was running on one rotor and I barely made it to court. No real sign prior to it going. Except for the last winter before it's demise it was hard to start and on occasion I had to pour a little motor oil in the carb to get it to start.

Oh, non-turbo 82RX-7

 

Ted's point is that it's not detonation that killed the engine, not that the engine can't die at low load. There are other ways an engine can die other than detonation, which is purely a high-load phenomenon.

 

LOL...how many miles, how do you know it was detonation. Could have been a lot of things.

 

Hell yea! The compression tester didn't budge from the zero line. When I had the engine out and turning it over by hand the rear would not even push the slightest amount of air.

I am sure my engine had detonated a few times under load, and one last detonation at crusing is prolly what killed it.

Hmmm something I just realized, we are talking about detonation, after the initial spark of the air/fuel. Don't for get about predetonation (pre-igintion), before the spark plug ignites the fuel.... Both are harmful, both can happen at anytime, it is JUST MORE likely to happen at higher loads.

 

I am curious like what else then????

 

here is the answer to your problem. LOL http://www.prepsparkplugs.com/frames.htm

 

I fudged up and clicked on the wrong *QUOTE*. I meant to click on the one that said:

*****So I guess my engine didn't blow then! 102psi in front rotor and 0psi in rear,
hmmmmm interesting!****

What makes them go is WORN OUT APEX SEALS. They're worn out for several reasons. Neglect being the number one culprit in my case.

 

I corrected my earlier post. No, it was a 82RX. No detonation doing 45mph on a level grade. It was a worn out rotary engine. You know, one that is hard to start on occasion. Real hard to start in the winter. It was a truly abused little engine. Ever pull a NACRA 18 Square over 800 miles in the Texas summer? With the a/c on? It was the little car that could. Well, for about 110,000, then it was a one lunger.

 

my first motor actually went when i was decelerating coming to a stop light. i pushed the clutch in to change gears and it stalled out. and when it started back up, i had to floor it to keep it running. completely no compression on the rear rotor. and i was actually cranking it and not turning if over by hand to check compression.