2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Lateral link - Removal tips?

Old Feb 29, 2004 | 07:02 PM
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Lateral link - Removal tips?

Just wondering what your tips are for getting this one out. Have had no trouble with the outboard bolt. It is the inboard bolt.

I have it looesely threaded and have driven about 10 miles. Hoping that it would work loose.

James
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 07:07 PM
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I used a c-clamp to put downward pressure on the bar. This forced the mount into the taper and kept it from spinning.
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 07:09 PM
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Well, I already have the nuts loose. My trouble is getting the link its self out of the inboard mont. I will keep that in mind though. I like htat idea for getting the nut out!

James
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 08:09 PM
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oh, I thought you were trying to get the nut off but the joint was turning.

To separate the joint, you can use a pickle fork. Or, thread the nut 3/4ths of the way on (to protect the threads) then pound on the nut to force it up. The sub-frame does not allow you to pound on the bolt directly, so I use a metal rod or an old bolt and pound on that (that is what I did).
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 01:18 PM
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DO NOT pound the subframe-lateral link bolts with a metal bar, they will NOT come out.

I had these pressed out at a machine shop. That's the ONLY way to prevent from damaging them.

You may need to use an air-impact gun to put the nuts back on.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 01:26 PM
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So you took the whole subframe to a machine shop to remove the lateral links?

James
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 01:44 PM
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Yep, the rear A-arm side came off fine, but the links would NOT come out of the frame. I had the machine shop re-tap my threads since I slightly mushroomed one of the bolts.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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Man!

I wonder if greasing the stud that goes into the subframe would help it from seizing.

I was able to pound one out of santiago's parts car with his help. But it took about a half hour.

How about the pickle fork idea?

James
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 03:41 PM
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I hope this doesn't mean we have to rip out the sub-frame again.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 07:42 PM
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I tried the tirerod seperator (pickel fork), soaked nuts in PB blaster for 2 days, slightly mushroomed the head from banging. Nothing worked.

Didn't want to pry on them as I might bend the lateral links.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 10:34 PM
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Originally posted by vaughnc
DO NOT pound the subframe-lateral link bolts with a metal bar, they will NOT come out.
...
Just because it didn't work for you doesn’t mean it won't work for others.

I removed mine this way without trouble.

PER FSM:


Originally posted by vaughnc
Yep, the rear A-arm side came off fine, but the links would NOT come out of the frame. I had the machine shop re-tap my threads since I slightly mushroomed one of the bolts.
If you leave the nut threaded 3/4ths of the way on, the bolt will not mushroom.
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Old Mar 1, 2004 | 10:54 PM
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Damn, you are one luck SOB

I got my pickle fork rented from Autozone. I am gonna beat the %$@^#% out of that thing tomorrow.

James
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Old Feb 20, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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Thought I would update this older than hell thread...

Turns out the reason it was so hard to get the link out was because I put it in wrong

The lateral links have different shaped ends on them. If you look at the diagram for the rear suspension you will notice that. However, I did not notice that at the time

James
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