Lateral link - Removal tips?
#1
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Lateral link - Removal tips?
Just wondering what your tips are for getting this one out. Have had no trouble with the outboard bolt. It is the inboard bolt.
I have it looesely threaded and have driven about 10 miles. Hoping that it would work loose.
James
I have it looesely threaded and have driven about 10 miles. Hoping that it would work loose.
James
#3
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Well, I already have the nuts loose. My trouble is getting the link its self out of the inboard mont. I will keep that in mind though. I like htat idea for getting the nut out!
James
James
#4
oh, I thought you were trying to get the nut off but the joint was turning.
To separate the joint, you can use a pickle fork. Or, thread the nut 3/4ths of the way on (to protect the threads) then pound on the nut to force it up. The sub-frame does not allow you to pound on the bolt directly, so I use a metal rod or an old bolt and pound on that (that is what I did).
To separate the joint, you can use a pickle fork. Or, thread the nut 3/4ths of the way on (to protect the threads) then pound on the nut to force it up. The sub-frame does not allow you to pound on the bolt directly, so I use a metal rod or an old bolt and pound on that (that is what I did).
#5
knowledge junkie
DO NOT pound the subframe-lateral link bolts with a metal bar, they will NOT come out.
I had these pressed out at a machine shop. That's the ONLY way to prevent from damaging them.
You may need to use an air-impact gun to put the nuts back on.
I had these pressed out at a machine shop. That's the ONLY way to prevent from damaging them.
You may need to use an air-impact gun to put the nuts back on.
#7
knowledge junkie
Yep, the rear A-arm side came off fine, but the links would NOT come out of the frame. I had the machine shop re-tap my threads since I slightly mushroomed one of the bolts.
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#8
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Man!
I wonder if greasing the stud that goes into the subframe would help it from seizing.
I was able to pound one out of santiago's parts car with his help. But it took about a half hour.
How about the pickle fork idea?
James
I wonder if greasing the stud that goes into the subframe would help it from seizing.
I was able to pound one out of santiago's parts car with his help. But it took about a half hour.
How about the pickle fork idea?
James
#10
knowledge junkie
I tried the tirerod seperator (pickel fork), soaked nuts in PB blaster for 2 days, slightly mushroomed the head from banging. Nothing worked.
Didn't want to pry on them as I might bend the lateral links.
Didn't want to pry on them as I might bend the lateral links.
#11
Originally posted by vaughnc
DO NOT pound the subframe-lateral link bolts with a metal bar, they will NOT come out.
...
DO NOT pound the subframe-lateral link bolts with a metal bar, they will NOT come out.
...
I removed mine this way without trouble.
PER FSM:
Originally posted by vaughnc
Yep, the rear A-arm side came off fine, but the links would NOT come out of the frame. I had the machine shop re-tap my threads since I slightly mushroomed one of the bolts.
Yep, the rear A-arm side came off fine, but the links would NOT come out of the frame. I had the machine shop re-tap my threads since I slightly mushroomed one of the bolts.
#13
Haven't we ALL heard this
Thread Starter
Thought I would update this older than hell thread...
Turns out the reason it was so hard to get the link out was because I put it in wrong
The lateral links have different shaped ends on them. If you look at the diagram for the rear suspension you will notice that. However, I did not notice that at the time
James
Turns out the reason it was so hard to get the link out was because I put it in wrong
The lateral links have different shaped ends on them. If you look at the diagram for the rear suspension you will notice that. However, I did not notice that at the time
James
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