KNOCK SENSOR question.......
#1
tom port.. AKA streetport
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KNOCK SENSOR question.......
currently im going to install my knock sensor to my haltech E6K. i was wondering if its best to install the sensor to the REAR iron or FRONT. they both have the spots for them. ive read that the rear rotor tends to be the one to "let go" before the front. i wasnt sure if there were different opinions on it.
and BTW: im using this setup:
LINK
and BTW: im using this setup:
LINK
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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a knock sensor is...... in perspective a useless commodity, it only reads AFTER you knock.
it just pops up and is like hey dude?
and to tard timing takes more time as well. and dosent fix the fact you knocjed in the first place. assuming injectors are not in sync with the abrupt change in timing ... blah blah.
lots of fuel pressure and several dyno tune sessions on the dyno off EGT, wide o2, maf/VE, IAC, and LTFT's is a better way to spend money, and of course bigger injectors than you think you might need.
it just pops up and is like hey dude?
and to tard timing takes more time as well. and dosent fix the fact you knocjed in the first place. assuming injectors are not in sync with the abrupt change in timing ... blah blah.
lots of fuel pressure and several dyno tune sessions on the dyno off EGT, wide o2, maf/VE, IAC, and LTFT's is a better way to spend money, and of course bigger injectors than you think you might need.
#5
tom port.. AKA streetport
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just hope that it won't be hopelessly noisy and therefore useless under many circumstances
his unit will work with any 1-wire knock sensor. This unit also utilizes a GM ignition module. This is needed to convert the noisy, varying voltage, of the knock sensor output to a clean step pulse. This module can be found in nearly any GM car/SUV/truck manufactured in the late 80’s and early to mid 90’s with electronic ignition (see picture). It is located on the firewall and requires only a pair of side cutters and a nut driver to remove it. This takes about 5min. I have picked them up for between $5-10ea in junkyards. These modules can also be bought new for less then $50 but will not include the connector which makes it much easier to wire.
lots of fuel pressure and several dyno tune sessions on the dyno off EGT, wide o2, maf/VE, IAC, and LTFT's is a better way to spend money, and of course bigger injectors than you think you might need.
#6
Alcohol Fueled!
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Interesting perspective and way off base.
I have relied on my MSD knock alert for years now with no problems. Its sensitive to detect pre-ignition in the beginning stages before it becomes a major issue and post a warning on the gauge. Its been an indespensibe tuning tool for me.
#7
tom port.. AKA streetport
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wow, interesting!
im going to have to research that!
i know the one im using doesnt do that but its preventitive maintenance.
EDIT:
is this it?
http://store.go-fast-parts.com/5731937.html
http://www.msdignition.com/tool_8.htm
im going to have to research that!
i know the one im using doesnt do that but its preventitive maintenance.
EDIT:
is this it?
http://store.go-fast-parts.com/5731937.html
http://www.msdignition.com/tool_8.htm
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#9
HAILERS
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Ah, I can't help but say, that sure is neat. Having a series five turbo engine in a series four car and using two rear rotor housings on it. Neat. Sorry, couldn't help myself. Can't help but wonder what other neat things were done. humor
#10
tom port.. AKA streetport
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well i guess thats not a bad thing. but what your saying here is i can tie the 2 into the sensor im going to install into the rear housing then? im surprised its that sensitive. do you have it installed all the time (DD)? ever see it peg then or other times other than tuning? not sure id want it if its that sensitive.
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