Carburators are liked by many for the simple fact that you can remove a lot of crap from under your hood and have a nice looking set up, also it is the easiest cheapest way to improve air flow over the long snorkels of the FI system.
It's not that it's better it's just cheaper and quicker to do. No computer to mess with for the entry level guy.

 

it doesn't throw it off that much only about 2%. You have to relocate the transmission mount about 2 inches more to the rear in order for everything to fit and run an electric radiator fan fromt he front of the radiator as a pusher. It's not just as simple as that though but thats about it as far as weight. I have seen write ups in some Japanese magazines, I think it was CARBOY that did a write up on it about 2 years ago.

 

dan I had dual exhaust on my 88 GTU. It was RB road race headers, hand made duals feeding two Trust/greddy straight through racing mufflers, anyway that's what they said on them, and it all only cost about $650

 

Bullsh!t.

Santiago, you need to do study up on your 20B's. The rotors from 1989 to 2002 are the same weight. 9.54 lbs. You could run any rotors you want in a 20B. They just have to all be the same.

 

I could have sworn REted told me otherwise. And it makes perfect sense. 3 rotors and a 20B e-shaft will not have the same weight as 2 rotors and a 13b e-shaft.



EDIT not to mention their rotating forces need to be ballanced differently as they don't have the same positioning as two rotors/e-shaft.

 

The 20B runs fine with its counterweights and stock rotors.
If you replaced the 9.0:1 compression rotors with 9.7:1 rotors, which had the same weight, the total reciprocating balance would be the same.
Of course you could not use the counterweights from a 2 rotor on a 3 rotor.

I have an idea: Instead of parrotting information from Ted, how about you only post information that you actually understand?

 

Well since we(me and Ted) had an actual discussion about some of these things from one person to another not just me quoting him like a mindless moron( I know some people thing I am anyways...) I don't think i'm parroting it. I actually thought the 9.7 cr rotors were a different weight from 9.0's anyways i'll check all that crap out later.


Santiago

 

The difference in weight between a 20B engine and a TII engine is 80 lbs.

Does removing the power steering and air conditioning from a car, which also has a mass of 80 lbs, significantly affect the overall feeling of the car with regards to balance?
No.

Have you ever even seen a 20B in person, let alone worked/driven a vehicle equipped with one?

 

I didn't say what other said about it being drastic. And yes removing other crap obviously changes the distro of weight. Who pissed in your cheere-o's? Wait.. was it my nuke canada post in DoO?

 

They are identical in weights and the S5 TII's used identical counterweights to the S5 N/A's. Check the part numbers. If the stock balance in the same on 2 rotors by interchanging the rotors between TII's and N/A's, then why would a 3 rotor, which uses S5 TI rotors, be any different?
Again, you're repeating what you were told, not what you understand.

 

I'm tired of your arguments based out of nescience.
A perfect example is your true dual argument. You have no idea what you're talking about. Anyone with any education whatsoever knows why.

 

Any education??

Come on that is seriously over exagerating.

And I think I conceded to MS7 a while back given it is a properly built and designed exhaust it would be supperior but how many aftermarket "bolt-on" exhausts are made like that? Honestly.....

 

Formal education in physics... the laws governing motion.

 

You can move other stuff around (Spare tire, Battery, washer bottles, remove stuff, add stuff, whatever) to regain your weight ratio. If you've got 20B $ you certainly have enough $ to recover your ratio with CF/Aluminum parts

 

Ok thats more realistic. But given what I asked how many "bolt-on" exhausts are designed with all those things in mind? Honestly.....

 

just throw a renesis in

 

It all depends on whether the company has $$$$ for R&D.

 

The phiscal 20b rotor is the same as the S5+ turbo rotors. They might even be the same part number for the 13b turbo's and the 20b. You would reuse the 20b counter weights. I think the s5 n/a rotors are heavier though then the turbo rotors. As they have higher compression ala more metal. But, if you can use tII counter weights with N/a rotors I don't see why the n/a rotors can't be used with a 20b. Unless when you change to N/A rotors you have to use the n/a e-shaft. Then my plan would be blow to hell. Because you would have to rebalance the e-shaft for the 20b.

Adam

 

S5 N/A rotors weigh the same as S5 TII rotors. If you read the above posts, you would know that.
The e-shaft was pretty muchy identical among the 13B's, so it would not have to be changed or rebalanced either.

 

um i love my n/a's i've had 4, and i am currently biulding one up.

that being said look at my sig.

nearly stock with no weight reduction.

 

ooops......
forgot to add my sig...

 

86 Gxlsp Nice Qm Numbers From Your Turbo 2, But At 12 Psi Id Thought You Be In The High 12's But I Frogot Its A Turbo Tii Motor And Not A Tt

 

Thanks for the ideas. I want to keep it streetable (in the sense that I don't get caught!) and not quite ready to do a motor swap. I would like to have about 200 rwhp and I basically willing to throw quite a bit of money and time at her.
I've heard good things about E6X from Haltech and Microtech systems. Any other ems's out there for 7's? Which one is the best for an NA?

 

Really thats funny because my link here says you don't know what your talking about! I also don't think it would need to be balanced. But, you should do your homework before you open your trap!

Rotor Weights

Now shut the hell UP!

 

Static balance it might be insignificant, but I'm telling you dynamic balance is a royal mess.
We're trying to balance out our 20B FC track car, and it oversteers like a bitch with a 29mm front bar.
We're in the process of stepping up to the next size up - 31.5mm - just to get the cornering balance right.

Now, this is just a 20B with no turbos.
Having another 50 lbs. + if turbos, turbo exhaust manifold, and plumbing will make the oversteer even worse.

As for rotor weights...
Kouki FC3S non-turbo 9.7:1
Kouki FC3S turbo 9.0:1
Cosmo 13B and 20B turbo 9.0:1
FD3S turbo 9.0:1
...are all the same rotor weights.
Technically, you can swap them without worrying about the counterweights.

Sorry 1987RX7guy if I had told you something else, but the above should be accurate.

We made 232hp at the wheels on a DynoJet.
Haltech E6K + trio of stock leadings firing L and T at the same time for each rotor.
Engine is bone stock from TB to exhaust port.
Custom tube header

With a rebuild, I would be confident the engine would easily break 250hp.

With the 9.7:1 rotors, power would bump up another 10-20hp.
So with a big port + 9.7 rotors, it's a combo closing in on 300hp.


-Ted