I just bought a late 91 FC that needs some TLC. I plan on totally rebuilding the car from the gound up. I've heard great things about TII conversions, but I want to be stupid and keep it NA for now. Anybody have good suggestions for building up a streetable-killer NA?
It already has a racing beat road race header and true dual exhaust (sounds sweet when it was running). I know I need an ems, gonna street port it while its out (not sure how aggressive tho)... anything I'm missing?

 

you can always super charge it

 

oh and welcome to the club

 

Go carburated, it runs great and eliminates a bunch of clutter and crap from under the hood.
It gets quite a bit faster since the motor can suck air in quicker since the length that the air has to be sucked is shorter, way shorter. you get more horsepower, throttle response and torque if the carb is tuned well, it's not hard to do. I sugest a Holley, like the racing beat holley set up..........Good luck

 

Killer N/A? maybe an N/A 3 rotor..

 

That would be schweet. A 20b with S5 n/a rotors. mmmm

 

i like the sound of that...

 

Well hope you remmeber that you live in california, thus daily driver cars require emissions testing and that the true dual setup does not have cats and therefore is street illegal. But if that isn't an issue, yes there is plenty that can be don eto an n/a to make it quick, but there is also a limit for what you spend making you HP compared to a TII.
It all depends on how much you're willing to invest.
Matt

 

You can make a N/A just as fast as a TurboII, if not faster, it just takes a lot of time, money, and patience which are things most people don't have or are short on. Browse around the 2nd gen specific section of the forum, I'm sure you can find some information on what you're looking for.

BTW, I hate you for having that true dual exaust, I want one so bad.

 

I'm getting sick of people thinking carb is going to give you more HP than FI... FI is superior to carb when both are tuned properly, always, period.

 

say hello to a nice price tag on the balance weights for that ****. :-p

 

As fast as a stock TII?

I got my N/A as fast as a stock TII on stockport and not spending very much at all, it's not as hard as people think. Full exhaust, intake, manifold porting, no emissions (cats choke up the exhaust) and some minor weight reduction and you're there. Quite simple and not costly at all, really.

Now faster than a modified TII? That's a whole different story

Personally I'm looking to hit low 14's before I boost my N/A, and that still isn't on *too* much money, relatively speaking. Of course with the same amount of money spent on a TII it'd be far faster.

 

I'm just getting my feet wet in this whole thing, quickly glancing around and writing down prices so I'm still fairly un-educated I suppose. Doesn't sound like you need to do a whole lot to match a stock TII, I should look more in to that. And sure, you can smoke a modded TII, just throw on a supercharger.

 

Doesn't the 20b use the same rotors as the s5 13bt. The 13bt uses the same counter weight setup as the s5 13b n/a. Hence using 13b n/a rotors would be the same as using the stock rotors and thus you would just use the stock counter weights.v

 

He's talking about the balance of weight from front to back. Stock we have almost 50/50 weight distribution, a 20B would throw that off INCREDIBLY.

 

no he is talking about the internal weights

 

actually it doesn't work like that boys. The 20B is 3 rotors not 2 like any 13B. That is a completly different weight you need to use.


Santiago

ps- and the weight distro is also going to change.

 

It wouldn't be an n/a though anymore if you did that then would it?
Oh also, i have the true dual exhaust. It's nice, spendy but IMO worth every penny i paid for it. 150,000 pennies total i think including shipping.
Matt
Hope i make you even more jealous.

 

True dual is not worth 1500 dollars in my eyes for the barely, if any, gain it provides over a collected header.

Like I said I got my car to stock TII speed on stock port, and all my exhaust was included an RB collected header, 2.5" testpipe, 2.5" custom y-pipe/piping back to dual straight through mufflers. The y-pipe/piping all the way back cost a little over 200 bucks, both mufflers SHIPPED were under 100, testpipe cost me 30 bucks, header came on the car when I bought it but goes for what 170 new? So in total that's 500 dollars for my full exhaust system.

 

Trust me true duals are worth everything they sell for. BTW RB's new true duals are a lot cheaper than 1500 dollars. I think its more around 100 dollars over a collected setup of the same quality.

 

Full RB Road Race system put together = $1055

Full RB System with collected header = $978

Difference of $77. So yes you are correct that IF you are going with a full RB system then the true dual route is basically the same cost, but again this is IF you want a full RB system.

Mine was so cheap because I pieced things together seperately and had an exhaust shop weld it all up for me for a pretty good price with aluminum piping.

Also, the prices I gathered there are for 86-88.

 

RB>exhaust shop As far as quality. If you have a full race car then your exhaust will probably consist of a header and a side exit muffler. Cheap and powerfull. But sure as hell not streetable.

 

What's streetable lol. Most would not consider my system streetable

No diffusers, ported exhaust, ported motor, header > pipe > mufflers that don't muffle

I need a borla xr-1 in place of my testpipe to quiet the bitch down haha.

 

Streetable is what you don't get caught by the cops with In otherwords the limit is where the popo will get on your ***.

 

They notice me, just don't pull me over

*knock on wood*