So the KG parts fuel rails will bolt right on to a S4 TII right? Also anyone have any idea what size lines they use. I wanna buy it all so I can do it in one day....

 

I believe the rails are 3/8 npt, I can ask Keith when I pick up my Microtech next week.

 

kg makes kits too
so you don't even need to worry about lines and fittings

 

Yep.

 

do they "bolt up" ? not right out of the box. Mine didn't come with mounting hardware. You will need to stack two washers between the rail and the LIM as a spacer, then use two M8 x 1.25 allen bolts (I think that's the size, same thread as stock), length is 25mm i believe.

 

If you've got an S4 TII you have many options to consider. First is doing nothing and dropping in a set of 750's and 1600's after switching the pintle cap and o-rings on the 1600's.

Second is a parallel system using the stock rails. Being S4 you can simply buy some adapters and plumb it up however you like with SS, nylon, or regular fuel line.

Third would be chaning out the actual rails.....and IMO, unless you're having a need for more fuel then the stock rails can handle changing them out is only a bling factor. Not to say its BAD, its perfectly fine, just making sure you're aware of what can be done with the existing stuff.

 

either the 1600's or the secondary fuel rail will need to be modified for fitment.

 

its hardly even a bling factor, with the engine assembled the rails are barely visable

I just admired my KG rails the other day when I had the UIM off to change out a sensor, other then that you can hardly see them.

 

Don't bother, drill your secondary rail if you're interested in throwing 1600cc injectors in there.

 

I decided to use S4 rails. The pintle caps need to be changed on 1600cc injectors. What kind of caps do I buy?

 

Re-use the original pintles off the stock injectors, or if they're trash, just get OEM/aftermarket replacements for the originals. Also, you need to change the oring on the top of the injector to one of a smalelr diameter to fit into the stock rail...don't recal if the OEM ones work, but I think thats what I used...its been so long...And despite what the poster above indicates - you *do not* need to drill the fuel rail at all, well unless you decide that drilling it is easier then swapping o-rings