Keyless entry/power locks
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bay Area Ca
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Keyless entry/power locks
Interested in adding keyless entry and or power locks to my '87 Turbo. I bought the autoloc kit that came with motors/actuators for the locks but that didn't work, so I was curious what the rest of you have done to get a system working and if so, which you went with and all that. I searched around quite a bit and nobody seems to have a really solid answer.
Thanks,
Sam
Thanks,
Sam
#3
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
you need to add a door lock actuator to the drivers door to add keyless entry (and to the passengers door if you don't have factory power locks.
it is very straight forward for even the most basic installer
it is very straight forward for even the most basic installer
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Bay Area Ca
Posts: 431
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The actuators wouldn't push the locks, I had it in per the instructions as best as I could tell, and I had a friend who owns a shop look at it and he couldn't figure out why it wouldn't go, so I was interested in possibly swapping in the factory power locks and then using the keyless set up that runs on the PDL wires instead of coming with it's own actuators. My question I guess is really more of, how hard is it to put the stock PDL in on a car that doesn't have it, sorry it wasn't stated too clearly.
#5
Driving RX7's since 1979
iTrader: (43)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Been there, done that
Your very best bet is to get a passenger door actuator from a wrecking yard rx7. Don't forget to get the plastic snap from the door locking mechanism that the actuator rod slides into, the mounting bolts (2 of them, 10 mm's as I recall), and cut the twin wire (red and green as I recall) so that you capture both the male and female plug (will make the wiring easier if you do)
Reverse the mounting of the mounting bracket and bend the top end of the rod the opposite direction. Then just bolt in the drivers door (the holes are already there), slide in the plastic snap on the locking mechanism, slide in the actuator rod, and you physical installation is complete in about as factory like installation as you can do.
Now, the actuator works on a reverse polarity principal. Positive to one wire, negative to the other actuates it. Just about any after market alarm system will have a "pulse" output for this purpose. Connect the red and green wire to the alarm's "pulse" twin wire output according to the directoins, and your done.
What is also fun is to get the window module. With that, when you arm the alarm, it rolls up the windows. Also, (at least with mine), a push of a third button after arming will crack the windows for hot day parking. In addition (fun feature), if you push the third button after dis-arming, the windows roll down.
Have fun.
PS to IceMark. Great finally meeting you at the 7Stock reception.
Reverse the mounting of the mounting bracket and bend the top end of the rod the opposite direction. Then just bolt in the drivers door (the holes are already there), slide in the plastic snap on the locking mechanism, slide in the actuator rod, and you physical installation is complete in about as factory like installation as you can do.
Now, the actuator works on a reverse polarity principal. Positive to one wire, negative to the other actuates it. Just about any after market alarm system will have a "pulse" output for this purpose. Connect the red and green wire to the alarm's "pulse" twin wire output according to the directoins, and your done.
What is also fun is to get the window module. With that, when you arm the alarm, it rolls up the windows. Also, (at least with mine), a push of a third button after arming will crack the windows for hot day parking. In addition (fun feature), if you push the third button after dis-arming, the windows roll down.
Have fun.
PS to IceMark. Great finally meeting you at the 7Stock reception.
#6
I think I'm addicted
the factory door locks is a follow up system =) so it is not really a TRUE lock system with 2 actuators.... u press the driver's door, it activates the door lock actuator on the passanger side and it locks the passanger door....
so swaping that in u will still need a actuator to lock the driver's door, then it acts the same ways like i described, the driver's actuator will lock the driver's door then it activates the passanger side also....
ask Icemark, he knows everything about follow-up door lock for the FC....
but u should check if the actuators do work? put a 12 volt wire to one and ground the other.... check that... if it works, maybe your 12 volt constants or grounds are not good?
how about the keyless entry module? does it have power to it and a good ground?
if the actuator do not move at all when power is added to it, then the actuators definitely defective.... if they work, then it is your keeyless entry module... either defective or bad connection....
that is my advice, check that....
cuz i think it should work, and alot of forum members have keyless entry done, so as Icemark say, it should be relatively easy.... i think much easier than the factory PDL....
(well, when i investagated my door problem, the Factory one confused me =)
good luck!
so swaping that in u will still need a actuator to lock the driver's door, then it acts the same ways like i described, the driver's actuator will lock the driver's door then it activates the passanger side also....
ask Icemark, he knows everything about follow-up door lock for the FC....
but u should check if the actuators do work? put a 12 volt wire to one and ground the other.... check that... if it works, maybe your 12 volt constants or grounds are not good?
how about the keyless entry module? does it have power to it and a good ground?
if the actuator do not move at all when power is added to it, then the actuators definitely defective.... if they work, then it is your keeyless entry module... either defective or bad connection....
that is my advice, check that....
cuz i think it should work, and alot of forum members have keyless entry done, so as Icemark say, it should be relatively easy.... i think much easier than the factory PDL....
(well, when i investagated my door problem, the Factory one confused me =)
good luck!
#7
I think I'm addicted
heh heh, sorry, just a correction... the Factory Power Door Lock system (like my TII) is called the follow me system, not follow up system.... (just a name mix up)
i guess i needed sleep last night =D
i guess i needed sleep last night =D
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joel(PA)
Race Car Tech
0
10-01-15 10:25 AM
rotor_veux
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
09-28-15 09:25 PM
ncds_fc
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
19
09-15-15 12:03 AM