Keeping The Rotary Cool
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The Devil
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Houston, TX
Keeping The Rotary Cool
I was planning to drift my FC and ofcourse, that means high revving and high temps. So I was wondering, what is everything I can do to keep my engine cool? I've heard that the main limitation is the water pump, well, are there any aftermarket water pumps that pumps faster/more than the regular and can keep my motor cooler? All suggestions are welcome, thanks.
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Actually, at high revs you want the water pump to run slower. At high rpms the water pump cavitates and you loose water flow. I have never heard of anyone upgrading the water pump because it doesn't pump enough.
The main thing that will help you cool better is a better radiator. You might need to get an electic fan because the stock shroud no longer fits for the stock fan, but the stock fan is plenty powerful for when its used.
The main thing that will help you cool better is a better radiator. You might need to get an electic fan because the stock shroud no longer fits for the stock fan, but the stock fan is plenty powerful for when its used.
Hmm, I haven't seen any write up's for an electric water pump. Is it possible? Do they make one to fit our cars? There would be no cavatation issue. Runs the same at all RPM's.
Maybe one of the experts can answer?
Maybe one of the experts can answer?
Thread Starter
The Devil
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 316
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From: Houston, TX
From Aaroncake.net
Overheating At High RPMs
Constant driving at high RPMs will often result in increased coolant temperatures (as expected) and if continued for a long period of time (more than a few minutes), overheating. There are two main reasons. One, the engine is being asked to produce it's maximum power. This of course results in more heat, and is completely normal. The second reason is that at constant high speeds, the water pump cavitates. This means that instead of pumping, the impeller simply "churns" the coolant within it's pump housing, not really moving very much at all. After a number of minutes, this lack of coolant flow will cause increased temperatures or overheating. The solution is to install a set of under drive pulleys if you intend to run the engine at high RPM often (ie. track use). The under drive pulleys slow down the rotation of the water pump and other accessories, making them more friendly to constant high speeds.
Constant driving at high RPMs will often result in increased coolant temperatures (as expected) and if continued for a long period of time (more than a few minutes), overheating. There are two main reasons. One, the engine is being asked to produce it's maximum power. This of course results in more heat, and is completely normal. The second reason is that at constant high speeds, the water pump cavitates. This means that instead of pumping, the impeller simply "churns" the coolant within it's pump housing, not really moving very much at all. After a number of minutes, this lack of coolant flow will cause increased temperatures or overheating. The solution is to install a set of under drive pulleys if you intend to run the engine at high RPM often (ie. track use). The under drive pulleys slow down the rotation of the water pump and other accessories, making them more friendly to constant high speeds.
Thread Starter
The Devil
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 316
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Innovation
Hmm, I haven't seen any write up's for an electric water pump. Is it possible? Do they make one to fit our cars? There would be no cavatation issue. Runs the same at all RPM's.
Maybe one of the experts can answer?
Maybe one of the experts can answer?
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From: Japanabama
Except most of the pully sets don't let you use A/C or P/S, so BOOOO.
Unless there's a mild one out there that gets rid of cavitiation, frees up power, lets you keep all your stock stuff and is still enough to power a car with a decent stereo? (talking about pullies for the alternator as well)
Unless there's a mild one out there that gets rid of cavitiation, frees up power, lets you keep all your stock stuff and is still enough to power a car with a decent stereo? (talking about pullies for the alternator as well)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
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From: Temple, Texas (Central)
I'm not talking about a full underdrive pully set, I'm talking about just underdriving the water pump. This has no effect on anything else except the stock fan, if you still have it.
Plus A/C and P/S are for pussies.
Plus A/C and P/S are for pussies.
Keeping your 7 cool
KEEP YOUR UNDERTRAY -or- make a nice sealed duct between the bumper inlet and the oil cooler/radiator so air flow through them not around.
keep your belts properly tightened (dual belt if air pump is removed)
proper coolant/distilled water ratio, maybe add water wetter
a proper working stock clutch fand with shroud pulls more than enough to cool the car even rx7s with an FMIC in the AZ heat.
i run a stock setup on my fc in the arizona heat and i havent overheated yet, and i beat the snot out of my car . . .
taking AC and PS off is for track cars, which 90% of all FC's ARE NOT 
KEEP YOUR UNDERTRAY -or- make a nice sealed duct between the bumper inlet and the oil cooler/radiator so air flow through them not around.
keep your belts properly tightened (dual belt if air pump is removed)
proper coolant/distilled water ratio, maybe add water wetter
a proper working stock clutch fand with shroud pulls more than enough to cool the car even rx7s with an FMIC in the AZ heat.
i run a stock setup on my fc in the arizona heat and i havent overheated yet, and i beat the snot out of my car . . .
Originally Posted by Sideways7
Plus A/C and P/S are for pussies.
Last edited by staticguitar313; Aug 23, 2006 at 07:44 PM.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
I was mainly joking. Even though I didn't have a/c in mine, it really is almost needed around here. P/S is overrated, though. Mine has manual steering and it takes a more effort when stopped, but you get used to it. These cars are so light its not that bad.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Yeah, I thought compressor died on my MX-3 and I didn't have the money to fix it so I went around from june to last week with no AC. It was pretty brutal. I ended up just putting in a shitload of stopleak and it sealed up the leak in the compressor. Now its overcharged with oil but oh well. It still cools most of the time and it'll tide me over for now.
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