BklynRX7

Ok guys I am going to a driving school in a few days and after seeing my friend experience some brake fade recently I want to put on some stock brake ducts (in addition to pads, rotors, high temp fluid ect). I have a GTU but it had stock fogs added on. Of the fc's available for me to observe non of the models with fogs have the stock brake ducts but the GTU and GTUs both have them. So can I put the stock ducts on behind the fogs and will they be as effective?

There seems to be plenty of room under he fogs for air to flow but if they will made a big difference I will remove them.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

the stock vents dont work too well, you'll need modified brake dust shields with 3" holes in them going directly into the center of the rotor, then youll clamp a 3" flexible hose to it and run it to the front of the car, thats how it works.

WingsofWar

Good pads and rotors shouldnt give you to much brake fade off the stock 4piston brakes unless you like to ride on the pedal and super heat the pads. During braking your instructor SHOULD teach you the basics of braking so you dont go all crazy and do some super late braking into a ditch, or something of that matter. Now If your driving school makes you do a pylon run or something similar to autox then brake ducts would work, but slotted rotors would be better.

Black91n/a

I've tracked my car several times with no problems, even with 225 wide R compound tires and I'm using stock type rotors, Porterfiled R4 racing pads and Ford DOT3 550 degree fluid.

Good pads and high temp fluid will almost certainly be ok for you, especially if you're new to the game and/or are on street tires. Almost every single NA FC race car out there uses stock brakes. It's reccomended to have a dedicated set of rotors for all out racing pads, but at first some street/track pads like the Hawk HP+ are almost always good enough, because you won't be going nearly as fast as the car can go.

BTW, slotted rotors do nothing, save your $$ and spend it on race pads, high temp brake fluid and some NAPA blank rotors or something similiar. They're good quality and cheap.

incubuseva

iTrader: (13)

^Word. Slotted/drilled rotors don't do ****. I only got mine because I found them for cheaper than blank rotors.

I had HORRIBLE fade + squeaking from EBC green stuff pads + horrible fade from stock pads. I would run my fav place twice + not be able to stop safely. So I upgraded to some Hawk HP+ pads, brembo rotors + higher temp fluid. I would say at the very least get the pads. Then fluid, then good rotors. The stock brake ducts don't really do much.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

While I haven't done a full track run, I can say that the stock system in good working order with Hawk HPS pads are basically fade free. I tried my hardest to get them to fade on the street (multiple stops from 100+ on deserted road) and couldn't do it. The previous owner used Hawk Blue/Black pads on the track, just don't use them anywhere else as the eat rotors at lower (street) temps.