second time posting in like 50 years( new thread button hard to find lols) any ways i am going to uti to learn about cars in a nutshell. well being a proud N/A FC owner i brought my car in to check the alignment....replaced two inner tie rods and alignment is 2 degrees pos camber in front and 1.5 degrees negative in the back. since then every fc i have seen at school has that type of layout also. is this an fc thing or what????

 

oh by the way i searched

 

.3 to .7 degree of camber is consider okay i think. Your alignment machine should have the spec. You can also alignment your car outside of spec to improve handling assuming you know what kind of handling you want. Since you have the alignment rack this might be a good time to install anti toe bushing.

 

Factory specs: Front

Camber + 0.3 deg +/- 0.25
Caster + 4.60 deg +/- 0.50
Toe in + 0.12 in +/- 0.12

Factory specs: Rear

Camber - 1.08 deg +/- 0.50
Toe + 0.12 in +/- 0.12

I am sure these are VERY close to factory specs. As mentioned earlier you can align your car outside of these specs to improve handling but sometimes with a negitive impact on tire wear. Also, sometimes an alignment that gives the best track times is undrivable on the street.

 

make sure your tires and rims are the right size for the fc if its not stock then you have to give it a modfied alignment
.5 within anything is ok toe,camber,caster
if its not you might have one of the 3 killer b's(bent, broken, something else forgot) lol

 

yes i think something might be bent but if it is 2 degrees positive would i easily notice it or what.... by the way teachers here have no respect for 7's

 

oh yeah really quick do you guys think it might be a bent rack and pinion unit or even worse.....the unibody

 

Bent rack and pinion (tie-rods) would affect the toe setting. Most likely a high positve camber reading can be determined by using a modern alignment machine and a simple tape measure. Compare the right to left included angle readings . Measure the distance from the inside edge of the top of the tire to the strut on each front wheel. The side that has a higher measurement should be the same side that has the high camber reading (this can indicate a bent strut and or a bent spindle). If the measurements are the same it is posible the lower control arm is pushed in toward the center of the car ( sometimes caused by an impact with a curb with the wheels turned). sometimes you can compare the swaybar endlinks and look at the angle from the bar to the control arms.

This is assuming the alignment machine was set up correctly and all the wheels were compensated properly ...etc...

 

This is assuming the alignment machine was set up correctly and all the wheels were compensated properly ...etc...[/QUOTE]
How did you compensat the wheels when you did your alignment? If you lift the car up to compensat the wheels did you roll the car back and forth to unload the suspension? Is the floting plate on your alignment rack unpined when you are lining up the car? If your suspension is not unloaded it can cause positive camber. Don't worry about what your teacher say about the 7 he is just jelious about all the stock aluminum suspension pieces that come stock on our cars.