Monroe

*Warning: Kinda long*
I was wondering if the kind ppl here could lend me some advice on swapping a JDM TII motor into my 86 gxl.
Ive read through almost all of the archive and many posts and couldn't find what i needed, but some good fragments that helped me alot.

I plan on using a JDM s4 tII motor that will be rebuilt by me. ( hopefully i do a better job then some people on these boards, ive read quite a few horror stories, and i have my fingers crossed)
I am planning on using the stock NA drive train and tranny for the time being.(yes, i know, this isn't looked upon well, but its the way i want it for now)
I would like to street port the engine, nothing wild, but something that would give me the ability to upgrade a bit for more power overtime.
Currently, i do not have access to get a cheap stock tII complete exhaust, so i was planning on getting the single outlet SSautochrome 3" turbo back exhaust.( i know some people on these boards have strong opinions on this)
Now for what i need help with...a couple questions im pretty sure someone here should be able to help answer
1. If i keep the stock TII intake, and use the 3" exhaust, having an average sized street port, will i be in need of any aftermarket fuel management?
2. Since im planning on using the NA tranny, is all i have to do is use the NA flywheel?
3. Since i'm using a NA flywheel and tranny, i assume i will be using a NA starter too?(i know, stupid question)
4. I read that you need to not boost while breaking in the motor, at least no more then atmospheric...im wondering how do i do this?
5. Are there any company/s you would recommend to avoid when buying rebuild parts? (the posts i read about buying new parts are kinda old, not sure if new info has been found on certain companies, ive seen some posts claiming horrible quality from certain places)
6. Is it ok to remove emissions from the motor before breaking it in? Or is it a good idea to break it in and then remove emissions?
7. while still having the restrictive stock intake, but the open exhaust, will i still have to worry about boost creep and have the wastegate ported?
8. For the price of getting a TII hood, i have the ability to get a FMIC and piping installed on the car. Would this cause me to need some sort of aftermarket fuel management?
9. I read that the stock intercooler on the JDM s4 and s5 motors say different things, what does each say?

Thanks for any and all help anyone can give me, and thanks for reading my long and drawn out message. I'm sure if someone can answer these questions for me, i'll probably come up with some more.

thanks for all the help!

RETed

Sorry I haven't answered your PM, but things were kinda busy on my side...


Not necessary, but highly recommended...
A Walbro or equivalent should keep things happy, but this does not mean you will be burning the air / fuel mixture efficiently.


I really do not recommend doing this, but if you insist...
Yes, you might as well keep the flywheel matched to the tranny.
Keep in mind that you need to keep S4 and S4 *or* S5 and S5; don't mix and match!
This is more for the engine rotor matching...


Again, I do not recommend doing this, but yes, you keep the NA starter.


Have a boost gauge installed.
Use your right foot to modulate the gas pedal to keep it out of boost.
If you know you need to accelerate a bit more, let the engine rev out rather than having the turbo go into boost.


I use ONLY Mazda OEM apex seals, no matter how much they cost.
Almost all the other aftermarket options (that are cheaper than stock) have had quality problems at one time or another.
As for the other parts, the aftermarket gasket kits sound fine...


It really doesn't matter, but if you do run into problems, it's less things to worry about.
I'd yank them take it all out before break-in.


Hard to say, but with an upgrade fuel pump, I can almost guarantee you it will not creep.


No.


Sorry, I don't know this off the top of my head, but I'm sure a search will turn up the answer.



-Ted

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Any of the J-spec's Ive had all said Rotary Turbo Intercooled - nothing special....but only the one had that sheild on them - Ive had others with the shield/writing removed.....

Monroe

what would you recommend getting? Safc II?

and would that allow me to upgrade the intake to a more freeflowing cold air box?

and i almost forgot to ask, will I be able to use the ignition coils from my NA with the TII motor safely? I'm pretty sure they're the same but i wanna double check

hmm, i only ask because the place im ordering my engine from swears up and down its an s4 motor, but i wanted to be able to make sure its not an s5, i should be getting pictures of the motor b4 shipment on monday, maybe i can post them and someone can tell me

thanks for all the help!

RETed

Yep, and S-AFC is perfectly fine.


I think the turbo would start creeping due to the 3" exhaust, so porting the wastegate would be a very good idea.
BUT, the problem I foresee is that you're really taxing the stock NA drivetrain at this point.
I think you're going to be killing clutches, if not the transmission itself, rear end, and axles.


That is correct.
The NA versus turbo coils are all the same.
Throw a CDI box on the leadings and call it a day.


-Ted

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

Going with a stock N/A driveline might work for the time being, but when you're looking for more power, i'd suggest converting it to a T2. Have run rebuilding your engine, you might run into some snags, but in the end, it will all be worth it. I'm in the early stages of rebuilding mine.

Monroe

Thanks for all the advice! I'm working on getting a digital camera right now so i can take pictures as i go to post here. I have a reasoning behind using the N/A drive train, but im still researching it

Oh, last few questions that come to mind.
Will the stock TII injectors work well enough using the cold airbox and 3" exhaust on the streetported motor?
Is there any company out there that sells s4 TII wiring harnesses and ECU's?

tjeter

You should be fine on the stock 550cc's, but most people tend to upgrade to rtek 1.7 and use 720cc secondary injectors, but as RETed already stated you should be fine with a fuel pump ugprade, and to answer your question about the wiring harnesses' and ECU's, I'm not too sure i would just buy a brand new harness if you could IIRC they're expensive but you get a brand new harness, but look around on ebay or the forum. Also you can come across a ECU anyday they're easy to come by and are like $50-$60. Dude and trust me get rid of that N/A driveline, theres a reason mazda created two different transmissions and the driveline parts differ between the two, i think you should follow their lead , if you want to spend more money in the long run and trouble go with the n/a driveline but this is fair warning.

RETed

The stock 4 x 550's are good for 240hp at the wheels safely.
It can handle almost anything you throw at it as long as you got the stock ECU (i.e. stock AFM) and the stock turbo keeping under 15psi.


Aftermarket wise?
No, not that I know of.
This is one of the reasons why we switch to aftermarket stand-alone EMS units.


-Ted

Monroe

mmmm, i was just reading some info on the rtek 1.7 sounds like its a piggyback and still needs the stock ECU? or am I wrong?

And if i decide to get a rtek 1.7, would there be any need for a Safc?

Ive never seen a JDM TII tranny, but is the shifting reversed then? so 1st gear is on the right hand side? (yeah, i know, really bad question, but ive been wondering this for awhile)

if the jdm tII tranny is in nice condition, i may swap it over and get myself the TII rear end, half shafts and driveshaft...

Thanks for all the help you guys! Keep the advice coming!

RETed

I believe the 1.7 is just a reprogrammed ECU (for 720 secondaries?).
The 2.0 is the fully programmable one.

Yes, I believe you will still need an S-AFC for fine-tuning fuel.


The shift patterns are all the same.


Good luck!


-Ted

Monroe

mmm, the website i read said that the 1.7 was able to switch between 720's and 550's for the primaries and the secondaries, imma reread it tho just to be sure.

If i do go with the 2.0, i take it i'd be able to do the fuel fine tuning with that? Or is it just programable for different injector sizes?

And at which point would i require an upgraded turbo? I see different people saying the maximum safe boost @ different levels. The sight i read about the rtek 1.7 said 12, and RETed you had mentioned earlier about keeping the stock turbo below 15psi, is that the maximum you'd suggest running it at?

EDIT: whoops, and i just reread the site, i was reading info for the 2.0 and not the 1.7...so it is the 2.0 that gives you the ability to select between 550's and 720's, not the 1.7

tjeter

i wouldn't run more than 12 psi on the stock turbo, also your on the stock TMIC correct?

Monroe

I'll be using a FMIC. Theres this nice shop here in town called Boost Factory. Chuck, the owner, does incredible work, and for a good price, it should cost me about the same as getting a TII hood shipped to my house...plus a case of beer^_^