I used a 16 amp toggle switch and it gets pretty warm
and was just wondering if thats normal or do I need to go to a higher spec amp wise....the rest of the circuit is cool but at the prongs (bottom part of the switch) its very warm...not hot...any input will be appreciated...

 

BUMP

 

size of wire and pump draw would help this question.

 

Thanks, well its a stock fuel pump and the wire might be one or two gauges smaller other than that I dont know...so can I assume I do have a discrepency there and would a larger wire and or higher amp switch solve that ?

 

hmm

well I have a 20A on mine and it too get a litle warm, but not HOT.

is there a light in your switch? You would be amazed at the heat it can make.

My switch is wired to the pump with 12AUG wire FYI

 

why are you guys that are adding this band aid, not using a relay??? Relays have a 30 or 40 amp rating.

 

Icemark, you are exactly right, but I did not know that I could use a relay instead of a switch...I just wired in the switch on that relay under the dash to help with the leaky injectors till I have the time to get them fixed the right way...my relay is just fine its just that the switch is warm...does that mean I should get a higher rated switch? Thanks for your good input my man...

 

I think what he's saying is that you should have a switch toggle a relay, which controls the power to the stock relay, instead of using the switch to do the job instead. Basically you'd just wire the relay in place, and use the switch the provide ground to the new relay, then when you flip it on, the relay kicks in and away it goes. Or you can just use a higher rated switch, which not many people suggest.

 

A relay shouldn't be necessary. The fuel pump is protected by the 15A ENGINE fuse, so that means the fuel pump plus the other things protected by this fuse won't be drawing more than ~10A. A switch rated at 15-20A should be fine. Everything gets a little warmer when electricity passes through it, so unless it actually gets hot I wouldn't be too concerned.

 

if the switch is under the dash there shouldn't even be any current going through it....

you only need a relay if the switch is in the trunk on the main line

the swtich under the dash should be swtiching the relay.

 

Not right Scott. The wire you put the switch into is actually the power wire from the fuse box. The circuit opening relay has two seperate coils, so you'd need two switches (or a 2-pole switch) to diasble it the way you're thinking.