NightfireFC3S

iTrader: (3)

t2 mod list ... this is my speed mods only ... I already know what im doing for brakes & suspension

* Gonna do full tune-up, all sythenic fluids, ngk plugs, msd wires & ignition etc ...
*Removing all a/c, cruise, PS (if it has it), towhooks, emissions, spare, jack, insulation, rubber mats under carpet, more.
* Fiero Electric Fan
* Custom Breather System w/ catchcan that drains back to oilpan.
* Custom Intake using a powerstack cone & heatshield from ... http://www.intenseperformance.com
* Racing Beat Downpipe
* Bonez Midpipe
* Spintek Muffler (borla style sideways mount, but sounds better) single exhaust w/ two exits both will have oval tips. Will look clean, no cans sticking out.
* Greddy Manual Boost Controller
* Blitz BOV

* Autometer A/F Gauge
* Short shifter w/ mazda6 shift **** (looks clean)
* Apex'i SAFC
* Relocated Battery to back - Optima Redtop.


I plan to run 12psi ... only things I don't know about, and have searched on already are ...

Cooling ... I already got a fiero fan ... what would be the cheapest aftermarket fan w/ a thermo switch

Intercooler ... 12psi, will I be fine with the stock IC, or would I need water/alch injection ... or should I even go with a custom FMIC? you tell me.

Fuel System ... Walbro 255 pump? FD Pump? Bigger secondaries? What do I need with the Mods I got ... I have no clue.

Bambam7

Definately need a walbro- and I would get at least 680 secondaries. With that eshaust system you will definately need the bigger injectors, as well as some definate porting of the wastegate.

Don't remove the insulation.. you really the car to be that loud?? It's not worth it unless you are really going to be racing it, and need to loose the little bit of weight associated with it.

12 psi.. the top mount is definately pushing it's effeciency.
At 12 psi the stock turbo is really on the upper end of it's effeciency, and serisouly heating the intake charge. I'd go with a front mount for sure, even a used setup, like a volvo one, mounted in front of the rad- it's cheap.

KenshinFC

With those kind of mods, I'd get a fluidyne or koyo radiator to deal with any excess heat.

I think 12 psi is a bit much. That was what I was running with my 87 TII with a stock S4 turbo. I was really pushing it. You will need a FCD and a boost gauge because the FCD will throw off the stock boost gauge.

If you're removing all the smog and a/c, get a pulley set (alternator, underdrive, water pump) and belts for it. Buy them because it'll save you from getting fan clutch slippage and breaking your coolant seals. (It happened to me.)

While you're at the smog and rat's nest, you could get silicone hoses ($100) to replace all that old rubber ones.

I think thats all I can think of right now.

NightfireFC3S

iTrader: (3)

So I add this in ...

*WG porting

*High Flow Walbro Fuel Pump (86-88) ... $110 @ rx7store.net

*680 secondaries maybe bigger ...

*Ultra thin dynamat (already got)

* FMIC ... decent sized (used) to look good with the front bomex opening.

*fluidyne or koyo radiator (cause of heat & FMIC) ... not a cost effective mod. I'm still wondering if I should unless I can find a cheap good alternative.

*aftermarket fan (same reason)

* Turbo Fuel Cut Switch (86-88, Part 11570) ... $91.00 @ Mazdatrix.com

*Autometer Black Boost Gauge (already got)

*Pulley Set (Alt, UD, Waterpump) & Belts

*HoseTechniques - Hoses, clamps, Dress-up ... or $98 at rx7store.

NZConvertible

Bollocks. The only pulley that is required is a dual-belt alternator pulley if the air pump is removed, to stop belt slippage. Unless you're circuit racing, underdriving the water pump is going to increase the chance of cooling problems, not decrease it.

An electric fan is not a requirement. There is no fan better than the stock one.

Josepi

The fuel pump you can get on eBay for ~85.

Buy some lengths of hose from a store totalling ~30 (some people have made write ups on what you need to redo everything, so search for that).

Dougster

I would add a TID mod and make sure you change your fuel filter...I also 2nd the keeping the insulation...

theflatlander

iTrader: (3)

you said all synthetic, i hope not motor oil, I'm pretty sure Syn. oil is bad for rotary.

cbrock

iTrader: (1)

unless you ditch the oil metering system and run gas oil mix, don't run that oil in the motor.

ilike2eatricers

Whats wrong with synthetic? What you said about synthetic oils is an old misconception that still lingers around today. Do a search on synthetic vs non synthetic oils or check the numerous polls. Synthetics years ago may not have burned cleanly and left alot of carbon deposits but most present day synthetics burn very clean.

DAN CARWIN

then why the hell does MAZDA say in their manual not to use syntheitc? their are cleaning additives that can damage the seals.

NightfireFC3S

iTrader: (3)

Don't turn this into another oil thread ... I've read all the others

However, I give thanks to those who have helped

CRXtoRX7

to comment on the removing carpet, pad, and sound deadening tar....dont.
The "wonderful" previous owner removed all interior and all heat shields.....
It is loud as hell, and the floor gets so hot you can burn your legs....
Anyone want to sell me some stock TII interior and heat shields?

razorback

you mean in a 15 year old book? look in the new rx-8 manual and see what it says.