KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

My 6 port turbo'd 90 GXL doesn't make any power and doesn't go into boost at all. It can barely get up a steep parking lot, its hard to even engage the clutch. I've redlined it and it still had no boost whatsoever. No CEL, no smoke, no starting issues, good idle, no hesitations. Theres a loud whine coming from the turbo when accelerating, even under 3k but I'm not sure if this is normal.

Specs:

Stock 6 port engine, ~40k miles (Rotary Ress. rebuild), sat for 2 months (ran great before)
NA intake manifolds, 6 port actuators wired open, VDI solenoid disconnected, actuator removed and left in the long runner position
S5 TII ECU (didn't change any wiring)
S5 TII MAP
S5 TII AFM
S5 TII turbo (minimal shaft play, easy to spin) with ported wastegate
FD fuel pump
Open loop (no O2), open 2.5" downpipe
TII FMIC, 2" to 3" piping

I'm going to check obvious stuff tomorrow, finger/ plug compression test, carb cleaner vac leak test, wastegate stuck open. Let me know if theres anything wrong with my setup, I appreciate all input.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

big air leak somewhere... either between yout AFM & turbo... or turbo intercooler pipes and T/B????


did you take it apart at all since it last ran?

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

I actually just finished this project and this was the first start so yeah its been all torn apart. I'll double check everything tomorrow with the carb cleaner and see where that gets me.

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

make sure you didnt leave a rag in the pipes

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Nah theres no rag. I just wasted a whole can of carb cleaner trying to find a leak and there was none. The car is letting out some white smoke when free revving, I'll report back with the compression "test"

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Compression feels damn good, nice and even between the two rotors. A possibility could be a seized turbo (though it spun freely before it was installed)...

*TOUCH*

iTrader: (29)

that sucks dude.....

katkaroto

can you get pics? i'm trying to do a 6 port turbo too.

indigogt

Yes dude, put some pics I´m trying to do a 6-port Turbo too and I don´t know what to do with the exhaust activators.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

Honestly I can't even afford $5 batteries to use my camera. Building a car on a college time and money budget SUCKS, I've also been having some seriously bad luck lately...I need to take a break from this thing.

What exhaust activator are you talking about? The pickup tube to activate the aux ports? It'd be difficult to build a spacer to space the turbo out enough to keep room for them but not impossible with an external wastegate. Most people remove them since the higher compression rotors create instant boost response (full spool @ ~2500rpm) at lower engine speeds. Feel free to ask any more questions.

I noticed it has an exhaust leak today on the turbo manifold>spacer connection, its really small, I wonder if its enough to cause it to have 0 boost but it'll need to be fixed regardless. I checked the turbo today and it spins fine, double checked torque on all the clamps on the couplers.

OTT

iTrader: (1)

Check shaft play on both hot and cold sides of the turbo(in, out, and side to side). The turbo's probably causing a restriction in the exhaust flow and not able to spin fast enough to create boost.... good luck.

dawicka2

The Jesus of 6 port turbos.......... http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/

john ny

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

needs to be in teal!

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

lol I've probably read Aaron's page over 20 times.

I don't have a dial indicator to check exactly how much shaft play the turbo has but its loud enough for me to hear it if I move it fast enough. The compressor wheel spins freely with little drag, there are rough spots though. Also the fact that it whines at idle and at higher engine speeds gives an indication that its spinning...if this was a problem I'd think it would at least make a little boost.

Sucks that I can't take the TID off and watch the compressor wheel spin as the car idles...that would make it real easy. I might hook it up to a shop vac..

RETed

E-OMP plugged in and working?


-Ted

honroc

I want to do the vert turbo swap also, show some progression pics

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

So I found what I believe was the problem. The lack of clearance between the turbine housing and the Mazdatrix ACV blockoff plate made it impossible to fully torque down the spacer to engine block connection causing a massive exhaust leak that bypassed the turbo. So for people searching 6 port turbo info you cannot use a Mazdatrix blockoff plate for the ACV, the plate needs to be thin, like 3mm or less.

Yeah. The reason I ruled out the OMP, MAP, TPS and AFM was because as far as I know those malfunctions will throw a CEL.

If this fixes the problem I will probably be happy enough to wash the car and take some pictures for you guys tommorow

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

... glad to hear it wasn't a banana in the tailpipe

RETed

reset


-Ted

katkaroto

i read somewhere on the forum but i seen a 6 port set up with the turbo intake manifold. the 4 port intake manifold will need to be ported. and then you can turbo the NA engine no prob... only problem is... i havent seen a full write up on it though.

anyone else find this on the forum?

katkaroto

hey guys, i found another thread to help NA to turbo. its on another site.

http://www.winnipegheights.com/forum...d.php?t=174524

its like aaron's but different... hope you guys like it.

680RWHP12A

that wouldnt be it, the car would barely run, if not at all

680RWHP12A

+1

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

I would tend to agree with you, however like the guy on here with the FD, the rag got sucked up to the intercooler(IIRCC) where it allowed enough air to pass for him to be able to drive the car... it just wouldn't boost or accelerate very fast

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

This is a very common setup. I think you can lay your NA gasket on the turbo LIM and immediately see what needs to be done. I think there's more to it though, if you search "6 port turbo" titles only you will find a LOT of info on it. At this point I almost regret not going with that setup.

Some comments about the project...

Aaron's page may scare some away from this project that aren't familiar with custom fabrication nor have the proper workplace for things like welding, cutting, bending, etc. I had local shops do the welding and the bending for me, it really didn't cost much. You only need the bending done for the lower intercooler pipe, very simple. For the upper I used the entire stock NA intake pipe. The BOV adapter is 2.5" so it has a smooth transition between 2" to 3". The flex section on it really helps since the TID and lower intercooler pipe is right under it. The lower intercooler piping is also crush bent so it reduces down to 1.5" where it meets the compressor outlet. For the downpipe I used a 2.5" mandrel bent U bend that I purchased from a local exhaust shop, cut it in half, marked it for fitment and got it welded to the racing beat flange. I plan to run it open downpipe till I have the funds to drive it to the shop and have them finish it. Oh and the wastegate problem is easy, unbolt it and bolt it further up the compressor on the bracket for the wastegate signal line. Cut and bend a piece of metal and make a secondary arm to connect the wastegate arm to the flapper, should be almost 90 degrees. Make sure wastegate is fully operational (vacuum/trans fluid pump test) and make sure it is not even slightly open. Take extra precautions to make sure this part does not fail as it may result in catastrophic faliure. I had to bend a brake line out of the way to make it fit and that was it. This idea came from Aaron cake also.

Tips: Find a local machine shop to do the bending, cutting and welding. Automotive shops like to charge out the *** for little jobs that take 10 minutes to do.

Try to purchase as many parts from a hardware store and avoid automotive stores. For whatever reason automotive **** is expensive. I could buy a nut for my wideband at ACE hardware for 60 some cents, when online a "WIDEBAND BUNG" would probably be $20+ shipped. Same goes with couplers, piping, brackets, etc. Just make sure to do your research (your key to saving money) to make sure the part will work with your application.

Don't try to cut pipe with your hacksaw and no vice, it will always be angled

I did this all in a little carport (parking spot with a roof) and my apartment, I had never even taken the intakes off before. It was really pretty damn easy, just make sure you are educated about turbochargers before you attempt it, buy a book or talk to friends that have experience with them. The worst part for me was watching the damn car sit while I waited for my next paycheck to order more parts. My setups pretty ghetto parts wise with the rubber oil supply/drain lines, home depot couplers (to avoid welding) but the install is clean. Future plans for the car are water injection and full boost on the stock turbo.