You can run as high as you'd like really. From the factory it was rated to use 87. As you get away from the factory setup(mods, raise boost) you should run higher octane. I was running 87 when I was completely stock, then switched to 89 when I added my intake, and now I am up to 93 since I run 11.5psi. When I turn it up to 15 I think I might run some 100 just to be safe. There have been lengthy discussions on this but since the search function is down you can't get to them. Basically 89 is perfectly fine until you are running high boost.

 

I thought Higher octane, Slightly better performance.

Like if i were to run 93 in my 87 base, would it run better over 89octane. Especially on a high milage engine (170k)

While on the subject, Would Fuel injector cleaner be a good idea ? And would Octane boost clean out some of the Carbon deposites, and restore power like they claim ?

 

Actually you make more power with lower octane. You just run higher octane to lessen the risk of detonation.

The only 2 kinds of fuel system cleaners I'd put in my car are Redline and Chevron. I use Redline myself and they sell it at Pep Boys(if they have those where you're located, not sure).

 

I run 94 now. I was using 89 when stock.


for N/A use 87

 

Octane is not a rating of the purity of the gasoline per se, its the COMPRESSIBILITY rating. 87 octane can only be compressed so much before it will combust (detonate) without a spark. This causes pinging, and all that happy stuff. 91 octane can be compressed harder, but the only way to take advantage of this, is to have a motor that actually requires a higher octane. For example, if you start running higher then stock boost. Using 87 in a stock N/A or TII is fine, thats what the car was designed to run on.

Rat ( for the record, I use 87 in my N/A and 89 in my TII)

 

I like how the gas cap on my TurboII says 92 only, yet they only sell 91 in CA.

 

I always tell people that, but they wont believe me

A lot of places that sell 94, is no different than the 91 they use some where else. It all depends on where that gas station gets supplied from and what they label it as.

 

yup.. here we go again...

 

I use 94 Octane, but not just because it's better than 89 or whatever. The gas station I go to is actually cheaper on 94 than most places are on 89 around here.
I am running higher than stock boost, and will be running even higher by next week with the addition of new exhaust components, so I will definetely keep using 93+ octane. In my N/A vert, however, i only used above 89 when i was going on longer road trips (ie: to Florida) because it improved my gas mileage. Any other time 87 would do. So for your, I'd say 87.

 

In Denmark we have 98 octane, and my N/A loves it

 

Your NA! no! no! no! no! no! you use the lowest octane you can get your hands on for an NA.

 

Higher octane does work better in a N/A.

If the timing is turned up and your moded

 

I tried 93 octane and it sucked. 93 is the lowest value that we have here, then comes 95 and 98...

 

Turn your timing up and mod your car, it will not suck.

 

I removed airpump and all emissions-crap, got custom exhaust , K&N filter, really cold weather and my car runs great.

 

I believe other countries octane ratings are different. So you 98 might be our 89 or something, not sure on each country. You won't notice a difference more than likely between fuels, but you get more power out of lower octane. Basically you want to run the lowest octane you can without detonating.

 

Basically you want to run the lowest octane you can without detonating.........

Thats why im running a higher octane, i have heard a few bangs, not pops, from my exhaust lately. Is that the right approach to avoid detonation/rebuild.

 

OR, another, more user friendly way to explain it is that octane is a measure of **RESISTANCE TO DETONATION*. More octane=more resistance. THis is because high octane fuel burns SLOWER...therefore you have more control over the combusion flame front, as opposed to more volatile lower octanes which can be more likely to co out of control (detonate) under poor conditions. However, higher octane also = les power output vs lower octane, because of this slower flame/burn.

Since an NA car in stock or mildly modified form is still quite a way from being on the margins of detonation, the lowest octane you can put in it is best. The faster burn of lower octane will produce more power and still be safe, unless you have wildly advanced timing, really hot weather, a big bottle of spray, etc.

Since a turbo car from the factory is set up much closer to the line of detonation, you have to be careful. However, a stock turbo II is meant to run on 87 safely, privided your fuel system is up to par. As previously stated, as you mod the car/raise the boost, you should also raise the octane you feed it. FOr a car runing over 10psi I would always use premium, whatever the best you can get your hands on. THis might not keep you from losing an engine, but it will give you a little bit of extra room between you and the rebuilders...

IF you have an NA with a modified exhaust, modified/removed emissions components, or a leaky stock exhaust, you will hear pops and sputters. ITs just part of having a rotary engine. You have to do something pretty seriously wrong to detonate an NA. YOu dont have any worries...run whatever the lowest grade you can.

 

Thanks Kevin
I allways thought that the higher octane the better quality
I guess the BANGS is what used to be pops
Its allways nice to get a second opinion,
and especially from someone who knows his ****
KIM

 

Removing emissions and putting an aftermarket exhaust will make those little pops be loud bangs. Try running on a open header and you will really see what Im talking about