i just got this off ebay and havent gone to pick it up.
just wondering if i got a Frankenstein or its just a s4 motor with a dizzy on it.

i want to build a bad *** six port turbo and needed a keg. after i looked at the pic i noticed that this might be a turbo keg. can i switch out the plates for 6 port ones?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_500wt_1182

 

It's not a 4-port turbo engine. It has 6 ports in the pictures. It looks all S4 NA on the outside. EGR on the center iron, no knock sensor threads on the housings, port air openings on the front/rear irons, mechanical OMP & water pump housing all look to be S4.

 

that's a six port sir

 

err... then wtf was i looking ...sigh im sorry for being rotarded guys..
so as long as the engine didnt break a apex seal im almost good? considering i have to measure things with a micrometer feeler gauges and a straight edge...

also all i have to do is take the dizzy off and put my cas sensor on?
and wtf is that radiator looking thing on the oil filter?
take it easy on me please this is the first time ive ever took apart a rotary engine.

 

Look like a oil filter sandwich kinda on that but then that line goes to the waterpump. Oil pressure sender is? have to see in person to get a good look at what was done to the s4 block. what are you replacing/taking apart?
Your doing an engine swap with this ebay thing as the replacement im guessing?

 

well my goals were to rebuild this keg with t2 8.5 rotors with big boost or rebuild it with high compression rotors from a s5 (need the front and rear counter weights and rotors right) and do low boost nothing more then 15psi if that with water alchy injection to control detonation.
i only want 300-400(maybe)
what ever i do i want to do a nice street port or maybe a bridgeport ..cant really decide as i haven't really did the pros and cons on the two.
do any of you have any comments or suggestions on my ideas.?
i also want to do something a little different then what every one else is doing. i kno that 6port turbos are common but not as common as a t2 swap and so on so fourth.

 

looks really nice for 150. i got a 10k rebuilt motor for like 550 that isnt painted at all. it was very clean though which i was pretty happy about.

 

"wtf is that radiator looking thing on the oil filter?"

Its called a "beehive" . It was used on 12A motors without front mount oil coolers. Since it has a dizzy i'd assume someone used to have this in a FB.

 

what would you guys do?
bridge port or large street port?

im told that the downside to bridge porting is that its unreliable is this true?
i did a search and found these 3 links.
http://www.turborx7.com/portingpictures.htm

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/PORT/porting.html

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/foru...-and-porting/?

 

more porting/ mod's will shortin' the life of your rotary, but BP(bridge port) has that awesome sound at idle

 

so how much of the life span will diminished by doing a Bridgeport.?
im tring to spool this big turbo (garrett tv7512) but i dont think its going to happend so i might have to sell it ...

 

Street port if its going to be mostly street driven. Bridge port if its going to be a track car only.

 

Also note, that the front cover is off an fb.

 

http://www.turborx7.com/portingpictures.htm
found these pics and a little info i guess.
With any set up hard to say really how much of the engine life will be shortened. I dont have the experience to say what port will last longer, but more power can stress out engine components more than a stock set up. So more stress on parts can = less engine life.
More money can get you higher quality parts an lots of research can always help in your quest for a longer running rotary.