I just drove 6 hours to pick up a 1988 Rx7 SE that I had bought. While driving it back, the first problem arose. The coolant light and buzzer started going off randomly. I checked the coolant immediately, and it was completely full. After going off randomly for awhile, it started to just go off consistently as I tried to remain sane. That buzzer going off for the better part of 6 hours will do that. After awhile, I started just pushing different electrical stuff, and ended up finding out that if I keep "overdrive" off, it doesn't go off. However, doing that, causes the car to run at about 3800 rpm going 70 mph. That uses a lot of gas. Any ideas on whats causing this light and buzzer to go off while the car is in overdrive?
Also, the other problem is what appears to be a common problem. The car starting, after I got home and let it sit over night, when I went out to start it the next morning, it cranked up, but then died. And much like I've heard, its about impossible to restart. I pulled the EGI fuse, cranked it for 4 seconds about 6 times, and put the fuse back in, and tried again. It sounded like it kinda wanted to work, but wouldn't. Then I read to pull this little yellow connector thats below the steering column apart, and push the gas all the way down, then start the engine, and it said it was supposed to start and run for 3 seconds, then shut down, and then all the fuel should be out of the rotor chambers. Well, of course, I tried that, and it didn't work at all. I'm not sure if I did it right or what.
Now, the battery is going down from all this cranking, and I'm worried about the starter going out. I'm going to charge up the battery tonite, and try it a little more, and if that doesn't work, I guess I'll pull and clean the plugs and cahnge the oil, and HOPEFULLY, that will work. Any input you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated! Thanks,

 

I feel for ya. We drove 8hrs each way one time to get a "mint" vert rx7.


the damn thing had rust EVERYWHERE!!!


good luck

 

Sounds like you bought a car with a bad internal coolant seal (or at least an external leak) and low compression...both of which will ultimately require an engine rebuild to fully eliminate, but the car can drive around in the meantime until one of the problems gets worse.

The main fix for flooding is to raise compression, i.e. rebuild. Band aids include cleaning injectors (this is usually not the cause) and fuel cutoff switches (a great $5 fix that will get you more use from the tired engine).

You need to let the car cool totally and check the coolant level AT THE ENGINE NOT THE OVERFLOW. Fill it up, bleed the system until it won't hold any more. Look for external leaks, under the engine. Run it short distances for a couple of days and check again. You may need to do maintenance such as coolant caps, thermostat, hoses, clamps, belts, etc.

IF you have an unexplainable coolant loss then you may very well have an internal coolant seal problem that will evnetually lead to overheating. IF this is the case there is no real cure except a rebuild, however there are a couple of bandaids people try which include removing the thermostat and running block weld.

The reason the buzzer goes off at higher RPM is because there is air in the system, and the sensor is at the top of the radiator...the higher RPm causes the pump to push more coolant into the radiator and it splashes onto the sensor to quiet it. If the rpm's drop, the coolant flow is reduced, and the sensor is again uncovered and the buzzer goes off.

 

I checked over some of the stuff you recommended, and I considering an engine rebuild. However, the coolant part isn't the problem, there is no leak, and the coolant is as full as it needs to be, but the light and buzzer still come on if I put overdrive on and the rpm's go down. I don't know the reason for this at all.
Second, I am going to attempt to buy a fuel cutoff switch because that seems easier than popping my hood and removing the egi fuse every time. The biggest problem I'm having right now is just getting it started. I tried everything the FAQ said, and none of that worked. It will act as if its starting to turn over, then just decides not to. Just wondering what you guys think, could it be out of gas? The gauge says a quarter of a tank, but being an older car, the gauge could be wrong. Other than that, I'm stumped. Do you think cleaning the plugs and putting ATF in the plug holes would at least get it up and going? Any help would be appreciated.

 

when you pulled the egi fuse you should have pulled one of the spark plugs and then cranked it over about 7 or 8 times that gets all of the fuel out of the houseing thats what i do and its been working all the time i do it but my car dont flood as much as people say ive learned when you crank the car and start it up you shouldnt turn it right off and crank it again because that floods the engine but try that take the egi fuse out and a spark plug the one at the top of the front housing or you can take them all out but that works best to me

 

probably flooded and a fuel cut off switch is just a band aid for a 10" knife blade wound.

and you do know that you check the coolant in the radiator, not in the overflow tank... right???

 

The buzzer goes off for one of 2 reasons ONLY.

1) there is air in the system, right under the sensor which is in the center of the top of the radiator. Due to the complex up-down nature of the rotary cooling system pathway, it's easy to get air bubbles trapped in some places yet the coolant level appears normal elsewhere. ON your radiator where the upper hose comes in, there is a screw which is an air bleed hole. Remove it and I bet air comes out. Continue filling the coolant at the engine until coolant comes out of the hole, then replace the screw.

2) the sensor wire is broken or unplugged.

Flooding and fuel cut switch info: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...nflooding.html

To get it going right now, use some oil/atf/whatever to raise compression and clear the flood. Once it is running again, use the fuel cut switch from then on.

 

Thanks guys, the coolant advice is superb, and thanks so much for that site, it helped BIG time, when dawn breaks in the morning, i'm heading outside, and not quiting till the sun goes down. If the sun goes down, I'll most likely be in here talking to you guys for more advice again though, hopefully it doesn't come to that!

 

just to clear things up, when you said use oil/atf or whatever to clear the flood, then start it and put the switch on, do i put the atf in the spark plug holes? if not, where?