Mejia

Hey whats up everybody. With summer around the corner , I know we all cant wait to hit the streets deep in our Rotorys .
Just picked up an FC with a solid body 98k . Everything is original , Im the Second Owner.
Being a 23 year old car . Im gettin all the basic needs done first before any modding. I have the complete history of the vehicle since this lady bought it in 87. Everything has been kept up to spec.
Im very enthusiastic about this gem.
Im getting the whole front brake system done.
Flush outt the coolant , replace hoses and thermostat. ( Dont wanna run into overheating problems this summer ) Recharge A/C .
I basically wanna get this car back to complete stock before i do anything else.
The previous owner seemed o take very good care , reading the history on it . She had full exhaust replaced ( she sounds so smooth ) Fuel pumps , lines etc.
Everything is kept up to date.
Just Changed the oil today .
But Id def like to get some great ideas from all of ya, or suggestions of what I should look for specifically to prevent anything from happening. I met a couple of Rotory specialist around my neighborhood which is always a plus.

Im heading to Jersey June 4th and 5th for the Formula D event . Lets get some Rotory fans outt there and represent !!!!

Spirit-RE

iTrader: (25)

Sounds sweet.


Just, um, fix the broken headlights and your set


Replace the Pulsation damper as preventative maintenance...

calpatriot

Things to check:

If there is no record of it having been done in the last 30k miles, pull all the fuel injectors, have the professionally cleaned and tested.
Trouble codes
Closed loop operation
Vacuum leaks
Proper operation of the double throttle diaphram (they are almost all deteriorated at this age)'
Replace the air cleaner
Check and adjust timing, advance, idle mixture, idle speed, and then the TPS. Check the tps for proper resistance values, and no dropouts across its range

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Please ..spell ROTARY..write it out 100 times!
..just bustin your ***** man..lol
anyways,,try a Site that has alot of info..: www.aaroncake.net
the Guy has a lot of info,like maintenance,Mods,etc and it is very straight forward.
get a cup of Coffee and sit down and READ the Sec GEN Archives,and the Sec GEN Specific section.It contains alot of Common "why does it do this" stuff,and good HOW To's on what to do and What NOT to do.
Honestly,I didn't know JACK about the car when I got it.I just Kept reading the Forum threads,and it has helped Immensely..anything that Has been done,Usually is Posted with specifics.
I am on Car Number SIX..I still have the First one,.Parted 3 Built 2..sold a good One,I hated to let go.I had alot of Heart,sweat and Parts in that one!
.Anyways,Read away,and You will Walk away from your computer with a Brain full of Useless info( well only good on a rotary..haha) but you will be a Better RX7 Owner!..just pick out the Good Stuff..haha!
Good Luck to ya.STYX.

Evil Aviator

- See the factory service manual for the correct coolant type, mixing ratio, and the proper method for bleeding air from the system. The Haynes manual is also good because it has photos.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...18#post5131218
- Use regular green coolant. Dex-Cool (orange) is crap.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...m_dexcool.html
- You can rinse out the cooling system with tap water, but mix the coolant with distilled water in order to avoid mineral deposits.
- Be sure to use the correct type of bypass thermostat.
http://www.are.com.au/feat/techt/thermostat.htm
- Install the thermostat with the jiggle pin up (see the manual for a diagram).
- Always use a torque wrench to replace the thermostat cover because it is VERY common to over-torque the bolts and ruin expensive engine parts. The torque specs are listed in Chapter 30 of the factory service manual.

- A 13B engine in good shape will burn about 1 qt of oil every 3,000 miles. Therefore, most people change their oil every 3,000 miles since it needs a quart by then anyway.
- Believe it or not, the ugly Mazda brand oil filter is very good.
- Next time you change your oil, I recommend replacing the two oil filter pedestal o-rings. These get brittle with time, crack, and can cause oil to drip on the heater hose, creating a very annoying pinhole leak that can morph into a complete hose failure.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b6.htm
- Technically, you are supposed to replace the oil drain plug crush washer every time you change the oil. I recommend replacing the antiquated drain plug with a Fumoto oil drain valve F-106 Regular Valve. That way you don't need the crush washer, you will not need tools to change your oil, you can change your oil without jacking up the car if you have a low-profile catch pan, and you can flick it open and shut quickly for an oil sample if needed.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

- The original radiator has plastic end tanks which tend to fatigue and crack. Most people replace them with an aftermarket all-aluminum radiator.
- See this website for tips:
http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/tech1.htm

Mejia

Thanks , I really appreciate it ya'll been reading alot and def getting alot of info in my smoked brain lol
Just had the car checked out , everything checks outt great!! Will def keep yall posted on everything

mbonner

Don't forget to change the fuel filter sock on the bottom of the fuel pump and the main fuel filter in the engine compartment. Especially that sock.
Mike