Rx7MPGUY84

well i got down to the radioshak without burning myself to death with antifreeze.(if you dont know check my other posts) and bought a muti-meter(went cheap and got the analog one), and got back to my apt and adjusted it to one ohm. i checked full sweep and it went all the way up to like 6.5 or 7 ohm. im sure this isnt good. so i took it for a test run and it ran like ****. the worst its ran since i got it running.

only when boosting. so i used only a little bit of throttle and it still does the same thing. im having my buddy send me a diff tps that checks out okay. but if this doesnt fix it, what do i do? could there be something else causing my car to hesitate? timing, vac leaks? im gonna get it checked out professionaly soon. its driving me insane. bahh. oh yeah it idles better, and as long as i dont drive it and let it sit in a drive way its cool, but driving sux now. i had to limp home today.

Im thinking my afm??? how do i test it. yeah prob search. ill search after i post this. mwahahaha.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

same thing happening to alot of people. Stuff I have tried

1. grounding (cleaned and added)
2. new tps
3. new coils
4. new plug wires ( next week ) waiting to come in the mail
5. will get new plugs if wires don't help

You will find a million and one things if you search under 3800 rpm hesitation. My hesitation hapens only when mashing the peddle and yours happens all the time so tps might be the culprit.

Rx7MPGUY84

yeah but im talking about full hesitation when its not idleing, if its above idleing it hesitates and i cant get it over like 1200 rpms. i just acts retarded. its pissing me off. I hate ******* tps's.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

lol, yeah me to, I would just do a search for maybe hesitation. also your tps is a big cause because its only supposed to go up to 5ohm anything past that means its a bad tps.

Rx7MPGUY84

god damn you tps, GOD DAMN YOU. okay so ill rip it off when i get the new one, and light it on fire. ill record it and post it. HEHE. if only we lived in a perfect rotary world where all rotary motors worked together to bring peace and save the ozone. idk what the hell im talking about. gotta love these cars

WAYNE88N/A

Added any "new" grounds lately?

How does she run with the TPS disconnected?

Ultimate TPS check- do it from the ECU pin, while driving. After warm, adjust TPS until the ECU is seeing 1 volt, plus/minus .1v (after you've stopped the car, of course, lol)

Oh, forgot to mention- while driving, if the meter needle sweeps nice & smooth, and doesn't drop during the hesitations, it's probably not your TPS giving you the problems...

BlaCkPlaGUE

How do you test the tps with the ohm meter. I have read a guide on it for the rx7 through google, but it seems complicated. rx7mpguy84, can you explain how you did it in laymans terms?

As in what setting you put the voltmeter too, and wich color wires you connected, and how you tested? this would be much appreciated bro

Im having ideling issues, goes up and down up and down, does this for about 10 minutes until the engine is nice and warmed up, then it goes away.

Rx7MPGUY84

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

thats how i did mine. its a sinch. just go to that site.

Syonyk

What is the advantage of setting the TPS from the ECU's pin instead of just using the set lights that the ECU provides (the TPS test plug)? I'd imagine that the test light connectors would be set properly when the ECU sees the transition between idle & not-idle... or are they tied to something else entirely?

-=Russ=-

BlaCkPlaGUE

This looks like the tps problems are only for hesitations in throttle... SO what the **** problem do I have? MAF?

Rx7MPGUY84

good news, i found a tps that was working good, went from 1ohm to 5 on wot. (no drops) but still actling like ****. it idles up and down from like 500 to 1000 rpms. up and down and up and down like a god damn aerobics instructor. could i be leaking vac somewhere? i tried all my lines but they looked good. im gonna rip off the uim and see if anything weird is there. tomarrow ill also change spark plugs to see if it helps.

I didnt do the ecu check yet. ill do it after i rip off the uim. i dont wanna take the time to rip up the carpet just yet. wish me luck guys

WAYNE88N/A

Man, IMO it's a helluva lot easier to pull the carpet back than to pull the UIM...

Rx7MPGUY84

ive pulled my uim more times than i can count. hehe. so i was working on my car and it has the shittiest amount of tourqe and runs like **** and boggs when i wot or even when i hit any amount of boost. and i tried adjusting the idle and it still does it, so i tried adjusting my tps, no good, and then i tried doing my timing. helped a little, but still goes like a aerobics instructor from 700rpm to 1k rpm. Im thinking now its def the afm. i took the filter off when it was running and pushed on the door a little while idleing, and it seemed to idle fine.

I think im going to ***** it and try to do the adjustment screw idea(afm). i guess turn it all the way down and turn it back 2 1/2 times and it should be stock set. does anyone know if this is safe before i do this. i read cwsttu post already about it. but i was wondering if anyone else has done this.

WAYNE88N/A

If it hasn't been moved since she was new, there should be no reason to mess with the idle enrichment screw...

Hate to beat a dead horse, but how do you know if your AFM is giving bad readings if you don't look at its input at the ECU? Or any sensor for that matter?

I've pulled my UIM many times, also. And pulled the carpet back many times...I'll pull it back any day if I had a choice between that & the UIM, lol...

I've got all the normal sensor readings throughout the throttle range written down for just this kind of troubleshooting, let me know if you need any numbers

Rx7MPGUY84

dammit wayne drive ur *** over here to fl its not that far away. just gotta get through the gulf. hehe. it seemed like a good idea about trying to adjust the afm, but ur right i need to do the test before i go all crazy and adjust ****. ****. okay what pins am i looking for at the ecu, and what are some numbers. thanx wayne

WAYNE88N/A

I could fly for free over there, but I would charge some serious cash just to pull your carpet back and hook up a meter for ya, lol...

OK, 87 base>T2...What's that mean? You got a base ECU, or a turbo ECU, or none of the above?

Hey, tell ya what, NZ listed all of the FSM pages for particular cars on that little ECU write-up I did- reading that real quick would probably help you out more than listening to my rambling

OK, pin 2E, AFM...Key on- 4volts, 750 idle- 3v, cruising at 55- 1.4v, at 75- 1.1v, at WOT- .95v... Note these figures are for my NA, with intake & exhaust mods...Yours will probably be a bit diffrent, but should follow the same general pattern...Any needle "jumps" while driving should be cause for concern (especially if it falls to zero, or looks like it's trying to)...

Good luck, lots of stuff to check out down there, hit me up for more numbers if you want...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/troubleshooting-your-car-ecu-340578/

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I'd venture to say it's one of the following three things for the idle:

A) faulty BAC
B) mis-set idle stop screw / idle screw on TB / stop screw on plates mis-set
C) vacuum leaks!

Rx7MPGUY84

haha wayne u bastard. ill give you $5 do fix my car. since u can fly up here for free, thats a $5 profit. thats a good deal i think. haha. thanx for the link. oh yeah. before i forget. could my tps still be messed up if it sweeps fine to wot and is set at one ohm. cuz when i unplug it its kinda rough idleing but it does idle up and down. i tried 2 different tps's and the same **** happens. maybe my car likes to run like ****? hmmm. ill try testing out the ecu. thanx wayne

ps. t2 everything

Rx7MPGUY84

ohhhh so sonicrat does live. u never answer my damn aim pm's ******. you know i dont have a BAC. you saw that your self. and i adjusted the stop screw to set the tps. its at 1 ohm. i checked for vac leaks around the intake and didnt find anything.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

hey sonic rat! your number two in your last statment is whats wrong with mine because after I messed with it I started having the same problem however how do I adjust it the right way??? Thanks.

WAYNE88N/A

Why do you guys keep messing with your mechanical idle adjustments to try to fix or cover up a totally seperate problem, lol?

Honda dude (I like that name, think I'll make it stick, lol)...Get your FSM, and go down the idle adjustments section step by step, see if that helps. Start with the mechanical settings, then start worrying about the electrical side of things (TPS, BAC, etc). Take it one step at a time...

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

It's pretty easy. And using your idle stop screw to set your TPS is what's causing your problem, MP. Anyway, for honda, this is how I fix that.

I move the screw all the way out, and make the throttle plates closed. I then make sure everything else is functioning (tps is set to 1k ohm, BAC functions, if you've got it, no vac leaks, etc). I then will start the car and leave it idle wherever it's at, if it stalls, that's fine, continue on. I then adjust the throttle plates stop screw so that the car idles on it's own (at any rpm range). I then slowly dial it back until the car idles around ~600 and then I use the adjustment on the top to fine tune it up to 750.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

ok thanks guys. I didn't think I was covering anything up when I moved the idle adjust screw. My idle was about 1200rpm steady so I thought I could just back the screw out a bit and make my idle 900 however this did work for idle but then gave me the bad hesitation around 3800rpm. so then I tried putting it back the way it was and I guess it was to much because it then went to 1500 and started bouncing realy bad so now I set it back down slightly. As soon as I get it back to 1200rpm I'm going to adjust my idle through the bac valve right??? Thanks.

Rx7MPGUY84

so close out the plates by unscrewing the stop screw all the way, so how do i adjust the TPS, cuz i thought the stop screw was how u did it. i forgot it controlled the throttle plates. ****. i thought thats what the teamfc3s one said to do. am i forgetting something????

Raven10

Check secondary injectors. if they don't come in at about 1500 everything goes to ****..