DonVito

Ok, here is the long and short of it. I recently purchased an 89 TII which had 230,855 miles on the original motor, (rebuilt once), it had blown coolant seals and a turbo on the way out the door. So I picked up a JDM TII motorset and swapped it in. I used the USDM Wiring harness and ECU. The car had the Air pump removed, and I noticed that the ports on the LIM which the air pump line passes through to the rear of the car were completely open. Since the car was already catless, I pulled the air pump from the JDM motor as well. The JDM motor also has no spot whatsoever for the AWS, no ports on the UIM at all, no port on the IC, and no thermowax, as such, I kept the motor AWS free.

My USDM wiring harness is slightly on one "leg", the portion that comes out of the UIM, near the front passenger side for the BAC, AVS, air pump, and O2 sensor. I stripped plug and wire for the harness side of the o2 sensor from the JDM harness, and properly spliced it into it's home. The issues I'm currently running across are...

1. The car will start but will not idle, seems like it may be a vacuum or BAC issue, does that seem correct?

2. the open ports on the front and rear of the LIM where teh air pump passages are. The front "pops" here and there, despite my searches, no one has said weather or not these should or should not be blocked off. Could this be affecting the idle as well?


This weekend I'll be focusing on searching for vac leaks and splicing a good plug in for the BAC. I've seen the write up for idle adjustment as well as the TPS, but would appreciate any constructive advice available, thanks a ton guys.

walken

iTrader: (6)

you need block off plates

DonVito

Sweet, I'll cut some in the morning, much appreciated!

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

A good way to look for vac leaks if you don't mind hurting your health a little is to use a cigarette/cigar/smoke machine to puff some smoke close to the engine and see where it begins to flow to unnaturally.

As for the block-off plate make sure you use the appropriate RTV/gasket maker/actual gasket.

DonVito

I'm a smoker, so that should be easy enough. Usually I use a can of Carb cleaner and spray a general vicinity while keeping an ear out for idle changes, then work my way in until I pinpoint it, but smoke seems easier, and I do that anyways. I'm thinking I'll get some gasket paper and RTV if the local Stealership doesn't have teh gaskets I need.

DonVito

Ok, she's sort of drivable now. Idle issues have me thinking that the TPS is out of adjustment, but every time I search for "TPS Adjustment" I just get a ton of threads of ppl flaming newbs and telling them to search, soooo I'mma keep looking for the thread that had the TPS adjustment info in it.

HAILERS

It's in the free, online FSM for your series car. It's in the FUEL section of that manual. You need to make a two LED light device and connect it to the TPS check connector and follow the manuals words.

Or common sense says you can just fully heat the engine up and read the output of the Full and Narrow range TPS and compare it with the values given in the same FSM, Fuel section.

OR, you can play Mickey Mouse.

HAILERS

Similar to this: http://www.rx7turbo.com/checklamp.htm

http://www.rx7turbo.com/tpsadjustment.htm

DonVito

much appreciated, I was looking for that two led setup, hopefully this will help out. I'm going to take the car to the stealership this week to see what specific codes are being thrown, and have them reset, wish me luck guys.

dazed01

no need to go to the dealership to check codes, you can do it yourself. Resetting them is just disconnecting the battery.

DonVito

So I pulled the codes, 5, 30, 34, and 38. the only one I was concerned about was #5, then i realized that we just forgot to plug the knock sensor back in, so that one should be good now. I put on block off plates for the BAC, ACV, and the split air valve today. Tomorrow I'll be readjusting my TPS, then moving the idle back down (it was bumped up to almost 2k just to keep it from hunting for idle so we could test drive her post-swap), then resetting the timing. Aside from that, during the swap I did new plugs, wires, belts, and all filters. I built the 2x 12v lamp TPS test light today, as well as picking up a car powered timing light. Anything important I may be missing that the people more experienced than I may be forgetting? Thanks for all the info so far, particularly to HAILERS and dazed01.

dazed01

No prob, I have a FSM at work but if I have a crazy question like "what can I use to set the TPS without the factory tool?" I just ask my shop foreman who worked on these cars when they were new