JDM S5 13bTurbo: Whats the best port/nipple for vacuum/boost reference???
#1
JDM S5 13bTurbo: Whats the best port/nipple for vacuum/boost reference???
What is the best source on a JDM S5 turbo engine for boost/vacuum reference? MAP, boost gauge and FPR would run off it. I had it according to Hitmans old website but have forgotten in the redo of First gen over the last couple years. The bottom of the firewall side throttle body ports is my best guess right now. I think that's what it was before.
Basic setup of engine
JDM S5 13bT; stockport
All emissions and non essential items removed. No idle control, secondary throttle blades removed, custom linkage. All air bleeds, oil injection etc. capped/removed.
Brake booster, Wastegate and BOV connected to Brake Booster nipple, 3/8 line on that whole system.
Haltech SprintRE
60-1/1.15 turbo
ect, ect.
On this motor, what is my best source for my MAP, Gauge, FPR source???
Pic
Basic setup of engine
JDM S5 13bT; stockport
All emissions and non essential items removed. No idle control, secondary throttle blades removed, custom linkage. All air bleeds, oil injection etc. capped/removed.
Brake booster, Wastegate and BOV connected to Brake Booster nipple, 3/8 line on that whole system.
Haltech SprintRE
60-1/1.15 turbo
ect, ect.
On this motor, what is my best source for my MAP, Gauge, FPR source???
Pic
#2
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FPR is the injector bleeds on the inside of the lower manifold.
The map is the side of the Lower?I think,there is a nipple there.
I like your engine bay set up.
The map is the side of the Lower?I think,there is a nipple there.
I like your engine bay set up.
#3
I used to run all these off one port by the throttle when I originally did my TII swap like 10 years ago. I followed Hitman.hm's instructions (no longer available) and it worked great.
I dont really see a reason to run all this stuff off of different ports. As you can see I am going for simplicity here.
I dont really see a reason to run all this stuff off of different ports. As you can see I am going for simplicity here.
#4
Sharp Claws
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on the front of the UIM near the throttle body there is 3 ports, top or bottom is the cleanest signal, center is ported to before the throttle body so no vacuum is present.
anything else and even possibly off those 2 ports should use a orifice, if it isn't built into the MAP port or the ECU has no buffering. try different orifices until the graphed signal is relatively smooth, but not too small of a port or there will be latency in the readings. the orifice should only be a few inches from the sensor.
anything else and even possibly off those 2 ports should use a orifice, if it isn't built into the MAP port or the ECU has no buffering. try different orifices until the graphed signal is relatively smooth, but not too small of a port or there will be latency in the readings. the orifice should only be a few inches from the sensor.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-31-13 at 11:41 AM.
#5
so on the Radiator side of the throttle; the lowest port. I just seam to remember it being one of the bottom ones. I did not have any orifice or buffing on it last time and had no issues.
only issue I had was I ran the TIal 50mm bov tied into it as well and responce was lacking. So I moved that to the booster port.
only issue I had was I ran the TIal 50mm bov tied into it as well and responce was lacking. So I moved that to the booster port.
#7
Sharp Claws
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a BOV works best off a port closest to the engine.
if it worked fine before with the MAP hose then it should be fine to reuse the same configuration. but if you see boost readings flutter then you should consider using an orifice to clamp the signal or risk hitting lean spots as boost rises.
to plug the throttle body i use iirc 1/2" NPT plugs after i tapped the housing. typical NPT port size shouldn't require any drilling of the throttle body to tap it. simply cannot recall if they are 1/4" or 1/2" though, it should be apparent when you size the plugs to the throttle body.
if it worked fine before with the MAP hose then it should be fine to reuse the same configuration. but if you see boost readings flutter then you should consider using an orifice to clamp the signal or risk hitting lean spots as boost rises.
to plug the throttle body i use iirc 1/2" NPT plugs after i tapped the housing. typical NPT port size shouldn't require any drilling of the throttle body to tap it. simply cannot recall if they are 1/4" or 1/2" though, it should be apparent when you size the plugs to the throttle body.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-31-13 at 01:06 PM.
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#8
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Drill into the intake plenum and tap for 1/4" NPT. Install a nipple or AN fitting, then plumb to a vacuum block. That's going to be the best signal and is now normal practice for me when dealing with a modified engine running a standalone. All the stock nipple get plugged. Of course if you are running PCV and metering oil pump, you'll need an air source from in front of the throttle body as well.
#9
that sounds a bit much for my setup. Probably the best way to go, but I had it on a throttle port before with my old E6k and I was very pleased with throttle response, injector transition etc. I would imagine that a source close to the throttle would be best.
And I'm running a road draft tube anyways, no pcv. Only oil this thing is ingesting is quality 2-cycle.
And I'm running a road draft tube anyways, no pcv. Only oil this thing is ingesting is quality 2-cycle.
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