JDM problems, man. Need electrical help! Early 89 JDM FC.
01-01-16, 10:32 PM
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JDM problems, man. Need electrical help! Early 89 JDM FC.
Picked up a RHD FC a few months ago, and am having a hell of a time getting the wiring sorted. The car is an early 1989 model, but it seems to be MOSTLY S4 (Zenki); the ECU is an N340 (Jspec s4t2), and the circuit boards in the cpu are brown like an s4. The car has s4 trim, but s5 tails. The guages are the quarter-circle s4 type. Yet the ownership I have for it says it is a 1989 model. VIN is FC3S-130407. The car also has no sunroof, not sure if that helps. It was painted at some point; all of the trim-line decals are gone.
My biggest problem is the J-Spec CPU, which evidently has some important differences from the A-Spec unit. For starters, there is a fourth connector that seems to control the power windows. There is extra stuff soldered into the circuit board behind that connector. I have been looking everywhere for any wiring diagrams or schematics on the Japanese versions of this part of the car, but have come up empty-handed so far.
The CPU behaves as such:
As long as the battery is hooked up, the car acts like the key is in the ignition. Idiot lights come on, but not the radio. The tail lights come on and the headlights come up when they are turned on, but there are no brake lights, and the turn signals do not work (They work with an A-spec CPU, but that causes some other strange behavior). The CPU has been soldered inside before, and I don't trust it. I'm almost 100% sure it's NFG. But I have been looking for a replacement for months, and I can't find a Japanese one. The white number painted onto the cpu case at the factory is FO45. I believe the S4 A-Spec cars are FB01. Anybody know where to get one or have a schematic? I'm considering just wiring switched power to all of the circuits that don't work with an a-spec module plugged in, any thoughts? This is the biggest problem with the car right now and why I am not driving it. I am hoping someone who speaks English (or Spanish or French, just not Japanese) has some experience with the J-Spec cars and electrical issues.
The second electrical problem I have is with the front turn signals in the bumper. They have a 3-pin connector but there is no corresponding connector on the wiring harness I can find. There is one cut-off connector, but only 2-wires go to it; perhaps fog lights. The only other connectors in the area are the daytime running lights (which work) and the headlight retractor motors (which also work). I took off the fenders (car has A-Spec fenders) thinking maybe there's a fender-mounted turn signal or something on the Japanese cars, but no such luck.
Another issue is the MOP plumbing is missing and the MOP itself slowly seeps oil from the banjo fittings where the hoses should be. I have been running premix obviously, but am wondering what the best way to block it off/remove it/make it stop leaking is. The engine is kind of a frankenstein I'll admit; S5 rotors, s4 front cover and housings, s5 manifolds. It is freshly built and not even broken in yet, and runs great. It was recommended to me by the guy who built the engine that this setup was ideal for making more power. Not sure if there is any truth to that, but I hope so. Also the exhaust port inserts were removed for the same reason. I would rather replace coolant seals and rebuild in 40k than have to build another motor when an apex seal lets go. Those s5 rotors cost me a shitload of cash......
Any and all help appreciated. Starting to think I'm better off just buying an A-Spec roller and swapping the drivetrain over, but I have never seen one as rust-free and low-mileage as this J-Spec car. Especially not for $3k or less......
My biggest problem is the J-Spec CPU, which evidently has some important differences from the A-Spec unit. For starters, there is a fourth connector that seems to control the power windows. There is extra stuff soldered into the circuit board behind that connector. I have been looking everywhere for any wiring diagrams or schematics on the Japanese versions of this part of the car, but have come up empty-handed so far.
The CPU behaves as such:
As long as the battery is hooked up, the car acts like the key is in the ignition. Idiot lights come on, but not the radio. The tail lights come on and the headlights come up when they are turned on, but there are no brake lights, and the turn signals do not work (They work with an A-spec CPU, but that causes some other strange behavior). The CPU has been soldered inside before, and I don't trust it. I'm almost 100% sure it's NFG. But I have been looking for a replacement for months, and I can't find a Japanese one. The white number painted onto the cpu case at the factory is FO45. I believe the S4 A-Spec cars are FB01. Anybody know where to get one or have a schematic? I'm considering just wiring switched power to all of the circuits that don't work with an a-spec module plugged in, any thoughts? This is the biggest problem with the car right now and why I am not driving it. I am hoping someone who speaks English (or Spanish or French, just not Japanese) has some experience with the J-Spec cars and electrical issues.
The second electrical problem I have is with the front turn signals in the bumper. They have a 3-pin connector but there is no corresponding connector on the wiring harness I can find. There is one cut-off connector, but only 2-wires go to it; perhaps fog lights. The only other connectors in the area are the daytime running lights (which work) and the headlight retractor motors (which also work). I took off the fenders (car has A-Spec fenders) thinking maybe there's a fender-mounted turn signal or something on the Japanese cars, but no such luck.
Another issue is the MOP plumbing is missing and the MOP itself slowly seeps oil from the banjo fittings where the hoses should be. I have been running premix obviously, but am wondering what the best way to block it off/remove it/make it stop leaking is. The engine is kind of a frankenstein I'll admit; S5 rotors, s4 front cover and housings, s5 manifolds. It is freshly built and not even broken in yet, and runs great. It was recommended to me by the guy who built the engine that this setup was ideal for making more power. Not sure if there is any truth to that, but I hope so. Also the exhaust port inserts were removed for the same reason. I would rather replace coolant seals and rebuild in 40k than have to build another motor when an apex seal lets go. Those s5 rotors cost me a shitload of cash......
Any and all help appreciated. Starting to think I'm better off just buying an A-Spec roller and swapping the drivetrain over, but I have never seen one as rust-free and low-mileage as this J-Spec car. Especially not for $3k or less......
01-02-16, 02:15 AM
#2
Turning signals only needs 2 wires to work....the 3rd pin is position light positive for the cars that have them in the turn signal housing....just turn on the turn signals and measure the wires and you know whitch ones to use...i converted the other way around to make them legal in sweden.
Banzai racing have a block off plate with bolts that replaces the oil injectors aswell.....very cheap and good quality kit (i bought 3 thru the years)
The cpu is the tough part....if you cant find another one just get a harness/cpu from us/eu car....ill check what my cpu number is when ill get home in a week or so and if it fits you can have it, i am going custom harness and mine is a eu car so it also got some wierd electronics.
I have owned s4 eu cars with both n344 and n340 ecu
Banzai racing have a block off plate with bolts that replaces the oil injectors aswell.....very cheap and good quality kit (i bought 3 thru the years)
The cpu is the tough part....if you cant find another one just get a harness/cpu from us/eu car....ill check what my cpu number is when ill get home in a week or so and if it fits you can have it, i am going custom harness and mine is a eu car so it also got some wierd electronics.
I have owned s4 eu cars with both n344 and n340 ecu
01-02-16, 11:41 AM
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firstly a vin of FC3s-1xxxxx is an S4, which is 9/85-6/88 production.
second the JDM manuals are here Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
third the CPU, there are 3 boards in the CPU, the small turn signal flasher board is the same for all, US (for this lets assume by US i mean north american) and JDM. the big main board is different for the base models, F045 JDM vs FB01 US, but the upper model board is the same, FB05. off the top i'm not sure what the difference is between the base and upper model, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.
the third board, which Mazda calls a plate lamp check CP unit, is different US and JDM. no idea what it does.
four, the JDM parking light setup is different from the US. in the US we have a combined parking light and turn signal, and thus the turn signal has 3 wires (parking light, turn signal, and ground), and the bulb is a dual filament. the JDM car has the same two functions, but it has two lights. the parking light is done with the FTP, and the turn signal only does the turn signal. thus the JDM lights both are two wire single filament bulbs.
if you have a turn signal with a 3 wire plug its a US spec unit.
second the JDM manuals are here Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
third the CPU, there are 3 boards in the CPU, the small turn signal flasher board is the same for all, US (for this lets assume by US i mean north american) and JDM. the big main board is different for the base models, F045 JDM vs FB01 US, but the upper model board is the same, FB05. off the top i'm not sure what the difference is between the base and upper model, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.
the third board, which Mazda calls a plate lamp check CP unit, is different US and JDM. no idea what it does.
four, the JDM parking light setup is different from the US. in the US we have a combined parking light and turn signal, and thus the turn signal has 3 wires (parking light, turn signal, and ground), and the bulb is a dual filament. the JDM car has the same two functions, but it has two lights. the parking light is done with the FTP, and the turn signal only does the turn signal. thus the JDM lights both are two wire single filament bulbs.
if you have a turn signal with a 3 wire plug its a US spec unit.
01-02-16, 12:40 PM
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Turning signals only needs 2 wires to work....the 3rd pin is position light positive for the cars that have them in the turn signal housing....just turn on the turn signals and measure the wires and you know whitch ones to use...i converted the other way around to make them legal in sweden.
The cpu is the tough part....if you cant find another one just get a harness/cpu from us/eu car....ill check what my cpu number is when ill get home in a week or so and if it fits you can have it, i am going custom harness and mine is a eu car so it also got some wierd electronics.
I have owned s4 eu cars with both n344 and n340 ecu
I have owned s4 eu cars with both n344 and n340 ecu
I'll be working on it today; I'll let you know what I learn.
01-02-16, 12:50 PM
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Several badly translated Japanese websites described the Japanese s4-s5 (zenki/kouki) crossover build date as February of 1989. Maybe it was different there? Or mybe I should stop listening to the internet. lol. But I agree; the car definitely appears to be a factory s4.
Great, been looking for that, ran across many broken links up until now; Thanks!
I have an FB01, FB05, and FO45 board here. The FO45 has circuitry that none of the others had on the large main board. It also has a fourth connector going to it where the hole in the a-spec modules is. It is a small 3-pin connector, and without it the power windows do not work.
Thanks for clarifying that. I knew it was going to be different with that extra ftp bulb; makes perfect sense now.
second the JDM manuals are here Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
third the CPU, there are 3 boards in the CPU, the small turn signal flasher board is the same for all, US (for this lets assume by US i mean north american) and JDM. the big main board is different for the base models, F045 JDM vs FB01 US, but the upper model board is the same, FB05. off the top i'm not sure what the difference is between the base and upper model, but it shouldn't be too hard to find.
the third board, which Mazda calls a plate lamp check CP unit, is different US and JDM. no idea what it does.
the third board, which Mazda calls a plate lamp check CP unit, is different US and JDM. no idea what it does.
four, the JDM parking light setup is different from the US. in the US we have a combined parking light and turn signal, and thus the turn signal has 3 wires (parking light, turn signal, and ground), and the bulb is a dual filament. the JDM car has the same two functions, but it has two lights. the parking light is done with the FTP, and the turn signal only does the turn signal. thus the JDM lights both are two wire single filament bulbs.
if you have a turn signal with a 3 wire plug its a US spec unit.
if you have a turn signal with a 3 wire plug its a US spec unit.
01-02-16, 01:10 PM
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Several badly translated Japanese websites described the Japanese s4-s5 (zenki/kouki) crossover build date as February of 1989. Maybe it was different there? Or mybe I should stop listening to the internet. lol. But I agree; the car definitely appears to be a factory s4.
01-02-16, 02:58 PM
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Can anyone help me translate this?
The JDM fuse block cover shows differences from the English one I have. Is there any way to get my fuse block cover translated other than going through circuits one by one? Any help here would be great...
The JDM fuse block cover shows differences from the English one I have. Is there any way to get my fuse block cover translated other than going through circuits one by one? Any help here would be great...
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01-02-16, 03:57 PM
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I am starting to think I may have an ignition switch issue as well.
Even when the CPU is completely removed from the car, the idiot lights are on as if the key were in the on position. The lights in the door cards come on as well. The radio and clock switch on and off as they should with the key. I found that the fourth connector that can be plugged into the cpu can also be plugged into another connector I found above the CPU. Not sure which is correct.
I also found a blown fuse, the 15A fuse in the middle at the bottom of the under-dash panel (the one I included photos of in my previous post.) The english cover I have shows a blank in this position. It appears to be an optional circuit (there are brackets around the kanji). The characters in the bracket are what looks like a 7 with a curved back and an apostrophe, a backwards check mark, a dash, and a lower case "t" with two crosses....any ideas? I replaced the fuse and nothing seems different, but I'm still checking....
Even when the CPU is completely removed from the car, the idiot lights are on as if the key were in the on position. The lights in the door cards come on as well. The radio and clock switch on and off as they should with the key. I found that the fourth connector that can be plugged into the cpu can also be plugged into another connector I found above the CPU. Not sure which is correct.
I also found a blown fuse, the 15A fuse in the middle at the bottom of the under-dash panel (the one I included photos of in my previous post.) The english cover I have shows a blank in this position. It appears to be an optional circuit (there are brackets around the kanji). The characters in the bracket are what looks like a 7 with a curved back and an apostrophe, a backwards check mark, a dash, and a lower case "t" with two crosses....any ideas? I replaced the fuse and nothing seems different, but I'm still checking....
01-02-16, 07:29 PM
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I am starting to think I may have an ignition switch issue as well.
Even when the CPU is completely removed from the car, the idiot lights are on as if the key were in the on position. The lights in the door cards come on as well. The radio and clock switch on and off as they should with the key. I found that the fourth connector that can be plugged into the cpu can also be plugged into another connector I found above the CPU. Not sure which is correct.
I also found a blown fuse, the 15A fuse in the middle at the bottom of the under-dash panel (the one I included photos of in my previous post.) The english cover I have shows a blank in this position. It appears to be an optional circuit (there are brackets around the kanji). The characters in the bracket are what looks like a 7 with a curved back and an apostrophe, a backwards check mark, a dash, and a lower case "t" with two crosses....any ideas? I replaced the fuse and nothing seems different, but I'm still checking....
Even when the CPU is completely removed from the car, the idiot lights are on as if the key were in the on position. The lights in the door cards come on as well. The radio and clock switch on and off as they should with the key. I found that the fourth connector that can be plugged into the cpu can also be plugged into another connector I found above the CPU. Not sure which is correct.
I also found a blown fuse, the 15A fuse in the middle at the bottom of the under-dash panel (the one I included photos of in my previous post.) The english cover I have shows a blank in this position. It appears to be an optional circuit (there are brackets around the kanji). The characters in the bracket are what looks like a 7 with a curved back and an apostrophe, a backwards check mark, a dash, and a lower case "t" with two crosses....any ideas? I replaced the fuse and nothing seems different, but I'm still checking....
the wiring diagram will also tell you the wire colors of what plugs into what, although again you need to match characters
01-02-16, 09:21 PM
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Video Inside
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By2...ew?usp=sharing
hope this works. This is how it is acting right now, including running with no key. A short video of startup and a bit of info, hope this helps.
When I pull the BTN fuse, then the car turns off with the key, but i have no brake or tail lights. And probably some other stuff I didn't notice.
hope this works. This is how it is acting right now, including running with no key. A short video of startup and a bit of info, hope this helps.
When I pull the BTN fuse, then the car turns off with the key, but i have no brake or tail lights. And probably some other stuff I didn't notice.
01-03-16, 04:32 PM
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SOLVED!
After replacing 5 blown fuses this morning after last night's car will run with no battery extravaganza, I got back at it this morning.
Found two connectors under the dash plugged together; a 3-wire into a 2-wire. It seems that there are two possible options on where to connect the power for the ignition keyring illumination light. One of them is correct, and the other must be some sort of test connector under the dash; when it is connected to the wires for the key illumination ring everything works fine, but when the power for the key wire is connected to this mystery connector, all sorts of strange things happen. The 2-wire connector is the right one, even though the 3-wire one fits. Looks like it's been that way awhile (I didn't forking do it)
After fixing that, the car ran properly and everything is turning on and off with the key, except the door card lights and the hatch open and brake idiot lights . I had a friend frankenstein together the a-spec cpu to work in the j-spec car by moving all of the circuits that the a-spec board was missing from the j-spec board.
With the frankenstein CPU, everything is working EXCEPT the cluster lights and the headlights. But nothing is drawing any amps when the key is removed. So some form of success.
I decided to see if the "Eurolite" H4 housings the car came with may have something to do with my headlights not working. I put in some trusty old sealed beams that have been in my basement for years and cleaned them up. As soon as I started playing with the connector on the H4 housing with the battery hooked up, they started flickering on and off, depending on how I held the connecter. Disconnected the battery and installed the old sealed beams. Battery back in and headlights work properly. All my front and rear wiper settings work. the squirters all work, the room circuit works, the power antenna works, EVERYTHING works except the cluster lights, boost and fuel guage. It's an a-spec cluster, in mph, so that might have something to do with it.
Thanks everyone for your input, those Japanese wiring diagrams saved me.
I'll take a video of the car starting and running and put it in a new thread.
After replacing 5 blown fuses this morning after last night's car will run with no battery extravaganza, I got back at it this morning.
Found two connectors under the dash plugged together; a 3-wire into a 2-wire. It seems that there are two possible options on where to connect the power for the ignition keyring illumination light. One of them is correct, and the other must be some sort of test connector under the dash; when it is connected to the wires for the key illumination ring everything works fine, but when the power for the key wire is connected to this mystery connector, all sorts of strange things happen. The 2-wire connector is the right one, even though the 3-wire one fits. Looks like it's been that way awhile (I didn't forking do it)
After fixing that, the car ran properly and everything is turning on and off with the key, except the door card lights and the hatch open and brake idiot lights . I had a friend frankenstein together the a-spec cpu to work in the j-spec car by moving all of the circuits that the a-spec board was missing from the j-spec board.
With the frankenstein CPU, everything is working EXCEPT the cluster lights and the headlights. But nothing is drawing any amps when the key is removed. So some form of success.
I decided to see if the "Eurolite" H4 housings the car came with may have something to do with my headlights not working. I put in some trusty old sealed beams that have been in my basement for years and cleaned them up. As soon as I started playing with the connector on the H4 housing with the battery hooked up, they started flickering on and off, depending on how I held the connecter. Disconnected the battery and installed the old sealed beams. Battery back in and headlights work properly. All my front and rear wiper settings work. the squirters all work, the room circuit works, the power antenna works, EVERYTHING works except the cluster lights, boost and fuel guage. It's an a-spec cluster, in mph, so that might have something to do with it.
Thanks everyone for your input, those Japanese wiring diagrams saved me.
I'll take a video of the car starting and running and put it in a new thread.
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