silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Yet again I have my Water Pump Housing off to be glass beaded. I currently have no BAC Valve with the water line running from the Rear Iron Housing to the Water Pump Housing.

I want to rid the line now that the Motor Is dry and the Housing Is off. I do not want to plug It with a bolt/house/clamp. Do you think JB Weld will hold will If I plug It up good?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

I would think that taping a thread into it and placing the correct type of bolt with good thread lock on it would be your best bet... that is what I did

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

I've searched some more. Those damn TB Mod/JB Weld threads keep coming up. No mention of using JB Weld to plug up the nipples I make mention of.

I took advantage of my spare Water Pump Housing I have sitting around here. With a good set of vice-grips, I pryed of the metal 90 degree fitted nipple, which Incidently Is only pressed on. I think I'm going to tap the hole to accept a NPT fitting to plug up that hole. As for the nipple at the Rear Iron, I'll rig up something suited to your suggestion jreynish.

Come to think of It - JB Weld may do well when used on the TB Mod, but I don't think I want It subjected to the hot and cold effects the Cooling System will be putting It through.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

That is why I taped it and put the proper sized bolt in it! because of the hot cold contracting and expanding of the metal I am sure that once jbweld has dried it will crack and make a mess! It seems to work on my car!
Jeff

Kim

I´ve been told not to plug those nipples, because that will hurt the waterflow and create hotspots.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, make a mess on my freshly beadblasted Manifolds. If hot Coolant hits them, the clearcoat will turn all Yellow. Ask 20B-3Rotor about this. He had to reblast everything Insight due to a broken line.

Well, something to bite on...a friend of mine was telling me tonight that he saw 2 people he knew lose compression to their Rear Rotor. It maybe coincidental though. But I wouldn't put It past me. I could see that being probable due to the restricted channel blocked off to allow the hot Coolant to pass.

RETed

I've seen people say that, and I dunno where those rumours come from.
We've been running them on race cars with no ill effects.  I think people/shops are blaming this mod for blown engines.



-Ted

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

In any case, I'm still blocking off the Nile river, just not with JB Weld.

SureShot

I used a short hose, a plug & 2 clamps - ugly but effective.

You want pretty - pull the nipples & shallow counterbore the holes for small freeze plugs.

Nick86

iTrader: (1)

I had the same thing.

I took the time to blast every thing I could when my motor was out. At the advice of an airline mechanic, I used a commercial grade clear aluminum sealant on the pieces that was "Heat and oil resistant" I figured it would make it easy to clean. It looked fantastic when it was freshly installed! Well, a bit of heat, and a blown coolant line later, I now have a goldish, yellowish alternator, UIM, LIM, Waterpump housing etc.

I just don't have the time and resources to disassemble it all again and redo the process.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

In the end, I could not bare the thought of using JB Weld to plug up the nipple to both the Rear Iron Housing and the metal nipple to the Water Pump Housing. Due to the cold and hot effect expanding properties of the JB Weld...well, It just seems dicey to me.

Using a Hanson Tap - 1/4-18, part # 8203, I tapped In a threaded hole behind the Water Pump Housing. Using a Watts 1/4" brass squared plug, part # WCA-737, I plugged It up using some threaded teflon sealant. I got all this at Home Depot, fwiw.

I addressed the nipple at the Rear Iron. Using a 3/8 x1" bolt, I pressed It In a 3/8 Goodyear Fuel Line Hose (about 2" In length). I used 1 clamp at the base, than 2 at the top. Luckily, I was able to find a big nipple to cover the ss hexhead to fit over the bolt so atleast now my UIM doesn't scratch of the Bolt. Fini!