i dont have a stock radiator. ive got a koyo like mention in the 1st post.

are you saying i need bigger?

 

oh i missed that....hmm....try using the stock clutch fan just for the hell of it...maybe the electric fan is not moving what it should. What brand is it?

 

I've had a similar cooling problem: blowing hoses off in city traffic, temp rising while cruising on the freeway, etc. The problem was the faulty factory thermostat, I put it in an oven and it didn't start to open up until around 250 degrees! I opted against the factory thermostat and found a top grade USA one, I can climb to 11.000 feet in the local canyon or at 80 mph across the Nevada desert with no issues.

 

well ill be a monkeys uncel. well i was doing more searching on caviation and found a comment that RETed made, "if you can turn the water pump by hand then its slipping" well i went out to the car and i could turn it no problem. but the belts are as tight as i can get them. so its time for some new belts. now the question is should i stick to the stock size or go smaller for the dual alt setup.

 

Don't go smaller.
The underdrive drops the voltage too low when idling.
This will basically kill the battery at night with your headlights on!

Good catch on the search!
Hope it fixes it!


-Ted

 

update, so this is what seems to be going on. i tighten the alt by pulling it farther up and bolting. i drive the car around for a while and it gets loose again. the alt falls down just enough for the water pump to start slipping. and i have to pull it back up again and bolt it down.

any ideas? i may just buy the gilmer setup and see if that helps.

 

Did you tighten both bolts?
The other "pivot" bolt also helps to keep the alternator in place.

If all else fails, you might need to "redo" the bolt on the bracket side.
I've crossthreaded that hole before, and I just drill the bitch and use a longer bolt and nut to secure the alternator to the bracket.


-Ted

 

dude ... i have the same prob now and i cant fix it for the life of me ... it seems to be relative to the ambiant air as well

 

yes ive the tighten both the hold bolt and the pivot bolt. ive acutally got to loosen the pivot bolt to raise the alt then re-tighten it each time. now on the bracket side. i only have a bolt, no nut is their suppoused to be a nut? i was thinking of trying it with a nut and washer this next time around.

 

No, no nut on the bracket side.
It's just threaded into the alternator itself.
Sometimes those threads get "loose", and they tend to strip easily.


-Ted

 

update, the long saga of my cooling problem has come to an end. after trying what ReTed suggest and the damn thing still slipping. I tried a longer nut and bolt combenation still same problem. I went back to the yoohoo belt and problem solved. I dont want to hear about its wrong blah blah blah, i used to use one on my na for 2 years and not a single problem with it. but thanks for everyones help.

 

ITS BACK AGAIN. ok so i replace the rad cap with an ebay pos it seemed to work good for about a month but now the overheating is back. would i have better luck with an oem cap. and please people read the whole thread before posting.