I want to resolder the cold joints in the clock. I know there were a couple writeups out there but error 404's were all I found, which means what I want was not found. I know I saw somthing out there before, but can't remember where. The clock works intermittently and while the dash is out (heater core replcaement) I want to fix the clock and replace a burned out lamp in the logicon

 

pull the idiot cluster out, 2 screws, simple enough. pull the back cover screws out and pull the back cover off then the screws that hold the back circuit board to the main body, now you will have to pry the 2 rubber plugs sideways and out that are used to space the boards apart then you can fold the back circuit board over to expose the main board, once there look at the main connector pin solder joints, you will obviously see some cracking at the solders upon closer inspection, i usually just heat up a 15amp soldering iron and get it nice and toasty then heat the joints til they melt and add a little bit of silver bearing solder (found at Radio Shack) and let up allowing it to cool and solidify, do this to each of the pins for the connector where they are soldered to the board.

reassembly and installation is reverse from disassembly.

 

Well, I don't see any cracks at the wiring connector. I do see some cold joints at a row of 3 or 4 resistors on the center circut board underneath of the flourescent vacuum display. Is that where the common failures are?


Were you referring to a grounded tip 15 watt soldering iron?

 

nope, on the board you just flipped over where the connector connects to the back of that board there is a row of i think 12 or 16 pins, on the reverse side of those pins is where they are soldered to the board, look at those solder joints closely under a light and you should see some hariline cracks circling the solder near where the top of the solder is. those all will need to be resoldered.

 

Thanks, I started resoldering all of those.

 

my clock doesnt work either hoever the retard lights work haha

 

I've fixed quite a few of these units for myself and various other people. I pull them apart, wash all the crud out of the plastic parts (no idea how they get so disgusting, but they do), and then resolder basically any joint I can find, and add significant amounts of solder to some (some of them are so dry that once heated up, the solder wicks into the joint (where it should be) and doesn't even fill in a complete circle). Do this, put it back in, and it'll work perfectly.

Not to bash Mazda too much, but the solder joints I've seen in these cars are just horrid. I'm amazed they run as long as they do without more goofy electrical problems.

-=Russ=-

 

my clock stays at 1:00 all the time. i fuggin hate it

 

We can all thank mitsubishi for that. My clock light is fucked up, it keeps going from off to night light to full bright and its recently started to go back 15 min every time you shut the car off....that crazy thing, I've resoldierd it a few times too. i'll have to look into it again. Sorry, just venting about our stupid idiot lights.

 

I hear you guys are just assing solder?... thats crap! I would polish off all of the old solder! if you just reheat the old stuff, its just going to crak again.... what you are adding may end up craking as well. the old solder will just come off if you use a dremal and a polish bit.

 

I used to have a soldier sucker thing worked excelent.

 

For a comprehensive info regarding the idiot lights, search for "IceMark" posts. He's the man.

 

I agree, icemark is the idiot master, if you want it done with excelent service send it to him.

 

Yeah, you can't just re-heat the solder joints and expect them too work. The cold solder joints (which happen on most import cars after 10-15 years, not just Mazda- you should see the number of lexus panels I rebuild) anyway the cold solder joints break internally and corrode. Just replacing the solder by re-heating it, does not solve the corrosion problem.

So the corrosion causes the joint to fail again in 6 months to a year. The old solder must be sucked out before resoldering so that you remove the corrosion.

Or send it to me to rebuild, or buy an already rebuilt one from me at my webstore if you don't want to do it yourself.