Tried running a search and everyone just talks about running different pads and rotors ... does noone make a kit that provides rotors and calipers (preferrably 4 or 6 piston)?

would love a bbk or brembo kit maybe bear?

anyway does such a kit exist or do i have to piece it together

 

You don't need a big brake kit 99% of the time. They're mostly just for looks unless you're fading your brakes at the track and have already tried everything. Some of the vendors on this site sell kits. Try AutoRnD, Corksport, and so on.

 

I believe D2 has a kit, I've been thinking of buying it myself. It's got 8 pistons front 6 back, price was ~1500$, and you can select between 330 and 355mm discs. http://www.d2racingsport.com/mazda-model.htm

edit: sorry, it's 1500$ for the front kit only.

 

There are MUCH better places to spend the $2k a new brake setup will cost unless you are beating the absolute **** out of your brakes (note: its brakes, NOT breaks).

Better pads, new rotors, and if you feel up to the task ducting will do you more for much less

BC

 

i plan on road racing and auto x my car though so the suspension and brakes are a huge part of it .. i will be contacting various companies to see if they offer anything

 

I would autox and road race your car first and determine that you need brakes before spending money on them. But, hey, its your cash.

BC

 

+1, the reason they dont make them is that the car comes with phenomenal brakes from the factory, upgrade to the brakes from the 5 lug cars, that will give you 4 piston calipers and ~11 inches all around

 

Invest in some good pads and rotors, have the rotors cryo treated and slotted. Then use them for a while. If they are fading, brake harder and later and set up some good brake ducting.

Good brake ducting does so much more for fade than big parts.

 

the thing is my brakes are going out .. and i am 5 lug (88 vert) .. so i assume i have those brakes already. I just want brakes that are all about performance and handling

 

dude, you dont need $2k brakes. the stock brakes are fine, just get some new pads,rotors and ss brake lines. you have what like 150HP?

 

The stock brakes are about performance. Its a performance car.

Like I said, its your money. I, and others here, just think you are wasting it. There are better places to put that kind of cash. Seriously, on this car a big brake kit is basically for the bling factor.

Why not try new rotors and performance pads. If its not sufficient you are only out a few hundred instead of a few grand. Its highly likely that you will find the stock brakes are more than sufficient and will thank us for saving you $1800 that ou con put somewhere else, like a set of really nice coilovers.


BC

 

^ BC hit it right on the head. I've got an 88 Vert also and it has all the brakes I'll ever need.

 

You don't need fancy rotors. Just go with some <$25 NAPA rotors. Cryo treating is bogus, nothing special happens to the metal when you cool it, it's not like a heat treatment that way. Slots don't really do anything. So do either and it's basically just wasted money. Besides, even if the NAPA rotors aren't as good as some brand name ones, and I'm not saying that they're any worse, just think about how many replacement sets you could buy for the price of one set of the fancy rotors.

Good pads (Hawk Blue or Black, Porterfiled R4, etc) and high temp fluid (550 degrees F or more) will do the trick. Even in E Production road racing (quite fast) they use stock brakes with no issues. It's only the guys with lots of power that need bigger brakes.

 

There is a GB on titanium backing plates right now i think. Get some backing plates, some ducting, good rotors and fluid and some nice pads. If you still have fade issues then Feed makes a stock caliper big brake kit and there are quite a few other companies that make kits, I THINK FD Big brake kits should work on an FC as well.

 

The FD kits might work with custom work, but they use different offset rotors. You'll be much better off getting an FC kit, but then again you don't need it, so don't bother.

You don't even need ducting and backing plates. Most ITS racers don't and are fine. I've beaten on my car at the track at full weight with two big guys in it for 30 minutes on end with only race pads and high temp fluid without issues on a track that's pretty hard on brakes (125 foot drop in a straight right into a 2nd gear hairpin for example). Only do the more extreme stuff if you're having issues with the basic race setup.

 

http://www.corksport.com/
You fail in search.


-Ted

 

Don't listen to all the hear sayers. Upgrade your brake and be happy enjoy them.

 

lol, great way to get him to waste money on brakes.

 

Just another way for you to post your gossip queen information with no real world knowledge backing it. Good job junior!

 

Some people spend time at the track finding this stuff out rather than acumulating post counts.

Save your money until you really know you need bigger parts.

Only place Ive ever over run good stock size rotors and pads is Road America. Everywhere else a decent pad and cryo slotted rotor has giving me all the binders i needed to haul a 3k TII down from 140 in a hurry.

Get a good set of pads and rotors and see if you really need bling (er big) brakes.

 

was that directed at me? Good job, being all e-thug and ****. Not my fault you don't understand simple relationships. iceblue, I would appreciate it if you would stop trying to get personal with me. All I'm going to say is when a majority of the forum's guru's disagree with your points, it usually means something. This is only a response to the attack that you started and I'd think it would be wise to let it end here instead of trying to air out dirty laundry.

The point is when you can lock 20's with good tires on stock brakes, you have more than enough braking power. Pretty much, at anytime, when you can lock your wheels while on the brakes, you have sufficient brake power. If you can't lock the wheels with reasonable pressure, you might want to look into a big brake kit with an upgraded master cylinder.

There are only two reasons to upgrade your brakes, brake fade and show factor. Brake fade needs to be checked by going to the track or auto x and see if you seriously suffer from fade. Other people are right, upgraded pads, fluid and better brake ducting will be a much more cost-efficient manner of upgrading. This assumes that you have limited funds. If you end up really suffering from fade, you could try aftermarket rotors. If all else fails, then go with a big brake kit.

If you're rich and don't really care, feel free to buy a big brake kit. I recommend K-Sport 8 pistons in the front and Greddy GREX 4-pistons in the rear. It'll look really nice at a car show, and if you keep the right other mods, it'll also be effective on a track/autox. That means keep your wheels under 18's.

 

Clamping force to lock the wheels is a pointless argument. I have bettor brakes on my dirt bike then your FC that should tell you something. When the majority of the "forum guru" are talking out there *** who gives a ****. The hear say band wagon sure is a popular one, Chooo Choooo Choo.

"If everyone is thinking alike then somebody isn't thinking." George S Patton.

 

you make a good point with that quote, i'm going to make a note of it.

Why wouldn't clamping force be a good argument. I mean, there's a force limit that the brakes can apply before tires lock. Anything else before that can be modulated with the human foot. You can control the speed of the clamp by how hard you step on the brakes. And since the tires stop the vehicles rather than the brakes, forgive me, but I just can't see why clamping force would be a good argument. Doesn't make sense to me, but I'm curious to hear your point of view.

 

First, try searching for "brakes". Next, you have a great brake system stock, four pistons in front, vented 2 piston in rear. I track and autocross my car and have NEVER experienced brake fade. The t2 owners out there who are putting out 300+ hp don't always upgrade their brake kits. The brakes being all vented and as big as they are mean they will last almost as long as most porsche brake systems and longer than s2000s, Mustangs, Camaros, Civics, Acura TLs, etc.

If you want to spend a lot of money, you're going to need to, better tires will pay off a lot more than better brakes in autocross and tracking - and if you're going to drive the car there, you'll need roadworthy tires (ones that can dispell water and last more than 50 miles) - which means that you'll need new wheels. A 225/45ZR15 is $206, you'll need 4, shipping, mounting, and wheels.

If you want to still fix up your brakes then get some hawk pads, stainless steel brakelines, and consider upgrading to a larger piston cylinder. Upgrade to slotted rotors if you need rotors, in theory they offer more bit.

If you're autocrossing you'll also want to get new struts and springs, bigger anti-sway bars, new endlinks, and new bushings - cause our worn out suspsension parts will cost you more time than worse braking.

 

About slotted rotors, I used to be a fan, but I'm not quite sure anymore. I don't believe they offer anymore than solid rotors. The slots were meant to clean off brake dust, if I remember correctly. This stuff would form a layer between pad and rotor, and worsen brake performance. I don't believe modern pads do that anymore, and the slots will worsen the brakes ability to retain heat and not transfer that heat to the fluid.

I've always been under the opinion that if you can lock your tires, the best upgrade to reduce stopping distance is to buy grippier tires. If you can't lock your tires, then buy bigger/ more effective brakes.

If you don't have the stock TII/GXL/Package A 4 pot fronts and vented rears, I'd suggest getting them.