i have a s 13 apexi ic the hot and cold pipe are running on the pass. side. the upper rad hose sits on the cold pipe. with no room for the intake we ran a cold air pipe from the turbo to the battery tray. the intercoolers not hot the cold pipe from the rad hose back is hot, the cold air intake is hot from heat soak and the intercooler takes up the opening so im not sure how much cold air is getting to the rad. i,ve seen intercoolers that cover the air dam and run pipes like mine. why am i running so hot? i'll get pics up tomorrow

 

pics.

 

as soon as the sun comes up and the rain stops i'll get the pics

 

[IMG]http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h195/4niesh/intercoolerpics004.jpg[/IMG]

 

what a setup

 

it pulls hard, and then it gets hot. i hate to sound like a junkie but i need a fix!

 

Wow, interesting setup...

The way it looks now the fan you have covers less than half of the radiator. So, the first thing I would do is get a shroud for that E-fan, or get an E-fan that has a larger shroud. I would recommend a Flex-a-lite Black Magic Extreme 180x fan. That is the fan I have. It fits the Koyo radiator almost perfectly, a little of the shroud needs to be trimmed to clear the inlet and exit tubes of the radiator. Its a monster that pulls 3300 cfm, probably one of the best fans you can get.

Heres a link for the fan.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...c_x-treme.html
It has a 18 Amp draw so I would recommend an FD alternator, though an S5 one may be ok. I run an FD alt so I know that works well with it.

Next thing I would do is reroute the cold side piping so that the hot radiator hose isn't laying on it making it a hot pipe and heating up your intake temps. I don't care what you have to do but get that radiator hose off the cold pipe!

Or go with a different intercooler setup with the exit on the passenger side and put the intake back on the passenger side. Having that intake pipe right behind the radiator like that is deffinatley preheating the intake before the turbo even gets to compress it and heat it further. The cooler your intake charge the better.


You can also try Evans coolant. This stuff is supposed to be fantastic. I haven't tried this stuff yet but everyone I have talked to about it raves about it. I've even heard that it can lower the normal operating temp by up to 20 degrees!
http://www.evanscooling.com/

 

i got the blackmagic 180 e-fan, heat wrapped the intake, and changed the thermostat. i broke a bolt off the thermostat housing.

 

How did you determine that you are "running so hot"?

 

temp gauge told me so and boiling coolant. it was also the first hot day 80+. its not running hot after i heat wrapped the intake and cold pipe at the rad hose. i'll put the e-fan on tommorrow. i was thinking of making a cold air box and duct. do you guys think it will help?

 

None of that will help much with cooling the water temperature. If the water temp increased too much when the car was below 40mph, then it would probably be good to take Juiceh's advice and install a fan shroud. Otherwise, the most likely problem is the FMIC blocking off air from the radiator, in which case inlet ducting would help. All you need to do is add some sealed flashing around the edge of the radiator and intercooler so that the inlet air from the front end of the car has no place to go except through the intercooler, radiator, and oil cooler.

I agree that the intercooler end tanks are totally wrong. There will be undue pressure loss from the convoluted plumbing and massive bends in the plumbing mandated by the incorrect intercooler type. Also, for best performance, the BOV should be next to the turbo outlet or next to the throttle body inlet. However, it's probably not worth the trouble and cost to optimize the configuration at this point, although it may be good to keep in mind for future mods.

As for preheating the intake air, straight-wall tube, especially when insulated by air, offers very little heat transfer. However, the air filter is going to suck in radiator discharge air unless a barrier is installed.