IF you're going to cut them, at least mark them as paired, so that you'll know where to put the new ones...

Are you going to include the r/r of the lighter in with the UIM/LIM writeup, Rat? I've always wanted to know how to do that, and I can't find it in the FSM...

 

yeah i was hoping someone could write up a more detailed instruction to doing this procedure i know its difficult to deal with a noob but its how everyone startsss!

 

Get a copy of the FSM from teamfc3s.org, buy a Haynes manual, and search around alot. Chances are these 3 sources of information will answer 90% of questions.

 

The problem with us old-timers writing a "how to" is that we have no idea of the mechanical aptitude of anybody that might try it, so we ASSume some things to simplify the process....

Kind of like that Chiltons manual- step 1, remove the engine...That kind of thing

 

I dont disagree with this, but before you go cutting anything I would mark it all first.. Remember, tjeter is a relative newb.

Rat

 

Thats true.. I cut all of mine, but I did so to remove the vacuum rack, twin scroll, port the WG, etc.. I only had to worry about hooking up vacuum to the FPR, Injector Air Bleeds, Boost Sensor, BOV, and my Boost Gauge.. I'm sure general instructions would suffice though, there has to be a vacuum diagram around here somewhere.

 

Okay, I was just talking to tjeter on AIM. Here is a brief synapsis of what has transpired:


His car is at a SHELL STATION.. The people there thought they heard hissing, so they assumed vac leak. They also told him that because it has a vac leak, its running too rich. Whatever...

Car idles at 1.5 to 2k when hot.. But pulls fine.

Oh, and the Shell station has managed to flood the car, which they blame on the vac leak, and they are charging tjeter to replace the plugs and deflood the car.

Anyone in that area want to fish him out of this before that car is completely ruined?

 

I was gunna post some rediculous time in removing the UIM and LIM together but then he mentioned noob and stock block and I noticed that it wasnt gunna be that easy. I have no emmissions and upgraded turbo, so I can remove the manifold with out removing the turbo.

Now, probably the most time consuming part would be to remove the turbo, I would do this first next to removing the IC. 14mm nuts all around and even on the downpipe. I believe its 10mm for the heat shield and 12mm for the manifolds. A good tool is a digital camera, and also, if you dont need to pass emmisions in your state, this is a good time to remove the rats nest. If not then you might as well mark the lines. Anyways, good luck and make the fsm at fc3s.org your new best friend.

 

Did you tell him how to unflood the engine so he dosent get scammed out of cash? Has he tried holding in the gas when he starts it up to get it to idle higher?

 

yeah like my EGR wass stuck open the shell said which was causing a vac leak, and now they say i have a intake gasket leak and they want to charge 375 because of labor. the EGR is now replaced but now they say intake gasket leak and they said taking off the turbo which makes me think LIM, but im goign to talk to them tommorow to make sure theyve verified it, also my mom just informed me a client of hers owned a FC and has a friend who runs a rotary shop in maryland or virginia i can't remember but i think i might take it over there if i can even get her there... by the way is anyone in fairfax that can help me out im a total noob any help would be much appreciated.

 

Do you own a truck, or have a friend that does? Tow it. I would not not trust dipshits that work at a ******* gas station working on your car. At least if you get it home and take your time, it'll get done right with help from people on this forum..

 

Amen, brother- get the car out of the hands of people that will just make matters worse (and drain your wallet in the process).

Tow it, push it, whatever...Just get it out of there...

Once you do, there are about 600 threads on de-flooding on this forum. Search and ye shall find

 

well the shop is owned by my friends dad he wasn't chargingn me for anything but when it came to the "intensive labor" they wanted to charge me.

 

With a friend like that, who needs enemies? I'd charge a friend about a case of beer to replace their LIM Gasket, and all the gaskets that you need to replace in order to get to it..

 

Lol Ill help them out if in turn they help me out when I need it. Of course I can never turn down drinks or food as payment.

 

don't cut any vac lines. Just carefully remove them and allow them to stay "in shape" for easy re-installing. You "will" replace the vac lines just not now.
My Haynes manual left out about 50 steps on the engine removal process. Step 23 said "disconnect 'anything else' still connected to the engine". Great Haynes, thanks that was a useless investment of $$

The FSM located in the FAQ on this baord is Way better and it's free. Just print it out. The step by step for R&R IS pretty good.
Very true. just take pictures of each step and take numourous ones at different angle. It's digital and free. When you are going back together you'll thank Martin.

Martin, you should've quit while you were ahead. Tjeter until you get to know more about the car it's best to just keep it stock and tackle one project at a time. Right now your focus is fixing your car so you can drive.
Amen, that's the best bet. There are a few guys right by you in WV and virgina There on the DoO. I'll see if they can swing by this thread.

Tjeter, with this car you need to see what is under that intake. Once you see it you'll be much better off for future problems.

Now back to the Vacuum lines that you didn't cut. Once you get the gasket and start to put the intakes back on, you'll first buy about 6 feet of Vac line and as you start to hook up each line. You'll take off the old, eyeball for lenght and cut a nice new supple line and put it on. You'll do one at a time untill every vacuum line under the intake is new. There are a few larger ones (like the one on the brake booster) that need replacing as well.

-----------------------------Those lines are probably your vacuum leak---------------------------

How can three pages be posted b4 anybody addresses the fact that the leak is probably a vac line???

 

Actually, Martins right. If he's a noob that dosent need emissions, removing the vac rack would be his best bet, since he would only have to re-run a few fuel lines, 3 vac lines, and run a catchcan..

 

Where in Virginia are you? IF you're close to the Eastern Panhandle of WV, I may be able to help or get you to a guy here that can work on your car eyes shut.

 

Thats exactly what im saying. It would be easier for him to remove it, than to plumb everything back together..