I've heard from several owners on this site that if you make a hardpipe for your turbo inlet duct you will gain boost and horsepower. So i designed one on spectreperformance.com and then installed it (very close fit).
First of all, my boost went back down to 5 psi from 6, but the car pulls and responds much quicker anywhere from 3000rpm to redline. So, if anyone can explain why my boost went down please let me know. And oh ya, the piping is 3 inch instead of 2.5 for the stock TID which might be the reason for the loss of boost eh?
But here is where my problems lie. When i first started it up after installation the car idled fine then died. I started it again and had to keep pumping the throttle to keep the car alive until it warmed up, and even when it warmed up my idle was around 400-500rpms. It has never idled that low before. First i thought it might have been a vacuum leak somewhere or that it was because my AFM was twisted sideways, so i checked everything and tightened everything down pretty good then adjusted my AFM so it was level and the idle was still the same.
The car has a lot of hesitation and sputtering under 2000rpms and i've noticed it backfires a lot more. It is also running really rich now cuz i can see the fuel or water drip from my exhaust where it wouldn't do that b4 this mod.
My guess is that my car isnt adjusting right to the new flow of air which is causing these problems. Could it be my AFM? Or do i need to buy some type of fuel management system? Your help would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks

 

try putting your stock unit back on and then see if ur problems continue

also do u have any pics of your set up oh i seen SPECTRE piping melt thats the pepboys piping right

 

I'll try to get some pics up... I wouldn't be surprised if the piping melted.. it feels pretty thin and cheap, i might wrap it in some heat wrap to make sure it doesn't

 

no dont heat wrap it i would just get real 2.5" aluminum piping and do it that way. those pipings are made out of plastic too

 

If a person has a stock airbox on his car, and I mean stock with snorkel, and the engine is fully warmed up, he can look at his wideband and write down the AFR figue. Lets call it 13.2 afr.

Then remove the stock box and put on your cone filter. Warm the engne up fully and read the afr once more.

You'll find the afr has gone from the stock 13.2afr to a higher figure, like maybe 13.8 or so.

As a general rule, the RX idles better/smoother closer to 13.1 than 13.8. A twist of the variable resistor will quickly bring the afr back to the 13.0 afr range. Sorry if you have a series five. Tough if you do. No variable resistor.

The above MIGHT explain the low/crummy idle to some extent. There's ALWAYS something left out in a thread like this.

 

So what is this "variable resistor"? Is it that little **** on the passenger side by the headlight that you can twist with a flathead screwdriver? If so, i've been told to never adjust that cuz it is very sensitive, and may cause ur engine to pop!

 

Would it be worth it to wrap the piping until i have another one made out of real aluminum? Is there anything wrong staying with 3" piping?

 

Any more suggestions??

 

Umm no. Just turn it clockwise to richen it up. Thats really all I had to do to fix my idle along with opening up the BACV.