TIIFC3S

To fix the hack job that the previous owner of my S4 TII did to the emissions system, I ordered up some block off plates and set out to remove the system and cap off all the vac leaks and disconnected valves he left for me. Seriously, wires cut in random places and stuff just disconnected and left there.

If it matters, my car is tired with 146k miles and I know a rebuild will be needed soon. But the plates I installed were the ACV, EGR valve, Subzero start valve and removed the SZS coolant tank, the one to the left of the ACV, and the Air Supply Valve. I decided to keep the BAC valve because it seems the common thought on here is to keep it.

After hooking everything back up and making sure all the seals were dried, I tried to start it. The first two times it barely started. It ran quiet and rough for maybe 5 seconds and died. From then on it just turned over but wouldn't fire up. And on top of it my cooling fan dash light came on.

What happened and why isn't my car running? Should I have kept the Air Supply valve? I just read in my FSM that it's part of the BAC system. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

every thing was removed from mine and hacked aswell but the only things that stopped mine from running is the cooling system readjusted my fuel map so it always thought it was cold (flooding)
but any ways first try some starter fluid check spark and if you have a tired old motor compression is a huge prob . check vac system for leaks did you do the tbm ?
i dont believe asv is necessity

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

[QUOTE=bostonspgs;10050662 but the only things that stopped mine from running is the cooling system readjusted my fuel map so it always thought it was cold (flooding)
[/QUOTE]

can you elaborate? cause this is my biggest issue i have right now. how did you fix it?

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

make sure everything works right , timing no missing parts(necessary). and as is to commonly stated but not listened to service injectors, its like 100 dollars. if you dont take care of yourself with nutritional habits , you dont feel perfect. how would that not be the same for your car? lets face my fc is gonna be 25 next year the youngest fc is 19. so 19 year + cars need to be properly maintained un hacked

my coolant system and oil pressure sending unit and tps were mostly all unplugged . the car would run but not properly it would sputter due to mass amounts of fuel being deposited. if it was hot it wouldnt always start and 5 seconds of the car turning over you could smell raw gas .
also if you stall a car you arent shutting fuel down then ignition , you shut ignition down because of strain,there fore still has fuel in it. so you start it up(or try) and it pours more fuel in.

also think like this, if your arm is broken you wouldnt use it for fear of causing more damage. so if your car isnt running right dont use it for fear of more damage

satch

iTrader: (1)

Have you ever checked the Water Thermosensor at the ECU, pin 2I. Should read .4 to 1.8 volts warm and 2 to 3 volts when cold.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

ah i was looking for that. all i found was how to test the sensor to see if it was faulty. thank you

TIIFC3S

I know my car is running lower compression than it should be running, but before the block off plates it always fired after a few cranks. It's run really rough since I bought it, but after fixing various vac leaks and taking off basic emission stuff, it's been much better and able to hold a consistant idle for the first time in 3 years. That's why I figured the plates would help because it fixed a few more leaks and got rid of stuff I don't need. And no, I didn't do the throttle body mod.

I just tried to start it again and it turns over fine but still won't fire up. A few times it did sputter like it wanted to start, but didn't. ??????

TIIFC3S

Looks like I found the issue. I slept on it and went to take a look before work. Looks like my buddy and I weren't paying attention and forgot to plug back in the BAC and the small sensor by the thermostat. Stupid us. It was a little rough to get her started but once she got going it was fine. Idle was the best it's ever been, though there's tons of smoke again. Hopefully that's just the liquid gaskets burning off. We'll see. Thanks for the helps guys.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

It's very easy to have a vacuum leak from blockoff plates, especially the ACV. Try pressure testing to find leaks.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

Not to thread jack or anything but i did the block off plates too and started my car for the first time since doing it today. It was pretty awesome.

But yeah, after setting the idle (No bac valve here!) messing with the throttle cable which was probably slack beforehand (1100rpm is fine by me) and doing a few shakedown runs i let it idle and cool off. I did my 3k shutdown like i always do when i drive the car and after that i heard something that sounded like a warning beep but it was a constant single note. Not on, not off. Just constant. And it sounded like some sort of pressure leak. I'm n/a, didn't see any fuel spraying out and if it was my catch can setup i would be able to hear it from either cap or the air intake filter bolted to the afm.


COULD my home made avc block off be the cause? I rtv'd it up good and it was pretty much flat with all surfaces cleaned but why would pressure leak in or out of that area with the engine off and key out? I dunno. I've had my car for a while but i'm not too keen at trouble shooting my engine. It's still greek to me even after putting my ands on it and doing all the research i can.

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Coolant level sensor opening will cause a continuous beep. Maybe a pinhole in a hose bleeding coolant pressure caused the level to drop and trigger the low coolant warning?