Install motor mounts without pulling the motor???
#1
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Install motor mounts without pulling the motor???
Is it possible to install new mounts with the engine still in or do I have to completely pull it out?
#2
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Well you'll have to unbolt the engine from the mounts obviously. I'd say as long as you lifted it up some you'd be alright. Just make sure to check all tubes/lines to make sure none come loose on you.
#3
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
i know for a fact you can, because when i install my engine i bolt it to the tranny then from under the car install the motor mounts then drop it down.. so yes you can deff can
#4
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Originally Posted by felixwankel88
i know for a fact you can, because when i install my engine i bolt it to the tranny then from under the car install the motor mounts then drop it down.. so yes you can deff can
So I can basically pull it up a few inches and slide the mounts in and lower it back down?
#6
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Instructions for Installing Banzai Racing FC Polyurethane Motor Mounts
1. First, disconnect the negative battery cable from the car battery.
2. Unbolt 14mm nut connecting engine bracket to existing motor mount (mount-to-engine) identified below on both left and right sides. Haynes Manual picture (11.7) on page 71
3. Then, raise car and support securely on jack stands. DO NOT place any part of your body under the car when only supported by a jack. Failure to do so can result in injury or death.
4. Unbolt 14mm nuts on bottom portion of existing motor mounts that protrude through the frame (mount-to-frame).
5. Raise the engine slowly, ensuring that you lift from the transmission, until the engine separates from the mounts and you are able to remove existing mounts and base cups.
6. Remove hardware from Banzai Racing motor mount. Note that bolt is threaded through the top cup.
7. Place new motor mount on top of sub-frame in location of old mount, as shown in illustration below.
8. Insert bolt through sub-frame and thread into motor mount, ensuring that a lock washer and a flat washer are between bolthead and sub-frame.
9. Lower engine slowly until engine bracket rests on new motor mounts.
10. Place flat washer, lock washer and thread nut onto end of bolt and tighten with wrench.
11. These mounts cause slightly more vibration than stock mounts but consideralble less than solid ones. Stiffness can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of compression on the polyurethane. This is achieved by loosening the top nut and tightening the bolt to increase stiffness (or loosening to reduce stiffness). Then re-tighten the nut. Recommended setting for initial installation is to ensure that polyurethane is fully compressed, as the polyurethane will 'loosen up' during break-in period. Then adjust if needed.
1. First, disconnect the negative battery cable from the car battery.
2. Unbolt 14mm nut connecting engine bracket to existing motor mount (mount-to-engine) identified below on both left and right sides. Haynes Manual picture (11.7) on page 71
3. Then, raise car and support securely on jack stands. DO NOT place any part of your body under the car when only supported by a jack. Failure to do so can result in injury or death.
4. Unbolt 14mm nuts on bottom portion of existing motor mounts that protrude through the frame (mount-to-frame).
5. Raise the engine slowly, ensuring that you lift from the transmission, until the engine separates from the mounts and you are able to remove existing mounts and base cups.
6. Remove hardware from Banzai Racing motor mount. Note that bolt is threaded through the top cup.
7. Place new motor mount on top of sub-frame in location of old mount, as shown in illustration below.
8. Insert bolt through sub-frame and thread into motor mount, ensuring that a lock washer and a flat washer are between bolthead and sub-frame.
9. Lower engine slowly until engine bracket rests on new motor mounts.
10. Place flat washer, lock washer and thread nut onto end of bolt and tighten with wrench.
11. These mounts cause slightly more vibration than stock mounts but consideralble less than solid ones. Stiffness can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the amount of compression on the polyurethane. This is achieved by loosening the top nut and tightening the bolt to increase stiffness (or loosening to reduce stiffness). Then re-tighten the nut. Recommended setting for initial installation is to ensure that polyurethane is fully compressed, as the polyurethane will 'loosen up' during break-in period. Then adjust if needed.
#7
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Originally Posted by xtremeskier97
Yup..but make sure your torque them down good first.
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#8
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Its not too hard to do, I did it recently. Used a couple of pieces of 2x4 between my jack and the oil pan. Just unbolt the engine mounts, jack the engine up and make sure that you aren't breaking anything (I didnt!). It is a little tricky maneuvering the mount itself in so the nub on it lines up... just let the jack down slowly. and hold it in place until both of the threaded ends are "captured" .
It will work.
Now, someone tell me how to replace my transmission mount with minimal removal
It will work.
Now, someone tell me how to replace my transmission mount with minimal removal
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
Easy task... It can be done without pulling the engine. Go ahead and do it just be carefull and don't get a finger stucked between the engine and the mount!!!
#14
Banzai Racing
Originally Posted by CrazyDude
Now, someone tell me how to replace my transmission mount with minimal removal
http://www.banzairacing.net/index_PFCTM.htm
Hope that helps
#15
I know this is an old thread, but this is exactly what I needed. After inspecting my newly bought 94 I realized that 2 of the 3 bolts holding the motor mount (driver's side) in place were missing. This thread should come in handy to fix it.
Thanks
Thanks
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