Injector Resistor keeps popping due to heat
#1
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Injector Resistor keeps popping due to heat
Anyone here have problems w/ resistors that keep on popping due to heat? I got 4 resistors for my 4 injectors to make them from low to high impedance. However they keep on popping due to the high heat. Yesterday, one of them popped and exposed a wire that shorted my EGI fuse and started a small fire. I am getting really sick of using extra resistors and wires that add to more complication to the already tight area under the upper intake. I guess I can run extra long wires to a cooler area, but that's not a good solution either. What is the best solution people have used?
Or, is there a way I can change the system so that I can readily use low impedance injectors w/o the extra wires and resistors? I know that for the earlier cars, there is a resistor pak that you can remove (or add), but I have a '90 TII. What am I to do? Anyway I can make the stock injectors to flow more? I contacted RC and they don't have this service for the stock injectors. Thanks in advance,
Jay
Or, is there a way I can change the system so that I can readily use low impedance injectors w/o the extra wires and resistors? I know that for the earlier cars, there is a resistor pak that you can remove (or add), but I have a '90 TII. What am I to do? Anyway I can make the stock injectors to flow more? I contacted RC and they don't have this service for the stock injectors. Thanks in advance,
Jay
Last edited by Boosting_FC; 01-15-02 at 12:10 PM.
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I don't know how big the resistors are but you shouldn't be popping them if they were supplied with the injectors. If you can find a local electronics supply house you should be able to buy 30~40 watt resistors suitable for the task - any value between 4 and 6 ohms should be fine. The resistors I am thinking of come with an aluminum case and 2 holes in the case to attach them to a heatsink which in turn should be mounted somewhere comparatively cool - say the firewall.
I'm afraid the only way to get the injectors to flow more is to increase the fuel pressure, but this may cause problems with the closed loop operation as the ECU may not be able to reduce the pulse width sufficiently. You will also have problems with idling as I believe this is an open loop operation and is preset within the ECU
I'm afraid the only way to get the injectors to flow more is to increase the fuel pressure, but this may cause problems with the closed loop operation as the ECU may not be able to reduce the pulse width sufficiently. You will also have problems with idling as I believe this is an open loop operation and is preset within the ECU
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Boy, that open loop idle really confuses me... Why???
I am fiddling around with the computer and sensors with the goal of being able to switch the ECU from normal operation, to being able to flip a switch, and get closed loop ALL the time (exept under WOT)
I have a 90 GXL- and am switching to low inpedance TII injectors... I am using the resistor pack, seems the most sound solution. It still required running wires to the pack wherevr it's located though.
I am fiddling around with the computer and sensors with the goal of being able to switch the ECU from normal operation, to being able to flip a switch, and get closed loop ALL the time (exept under WOT)
I have a 90 GXL- and am switching to low inpedance TII injectors... I am using the resistor pack, seems the most sound solution. It still required running wires to the pack wherevr it's located though.
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i wonder if putting the resistors in a cooler spot would help?
and the ecus dont run closed loop at idle because the air pump throws off the o2 readings
mike
and the ecus dont run closed loop at idle because the air pump throws off the o2 readings
mike
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