O.K. Guys,
I've been looking at this TII for $1000 and there is a problem I can fix but I need to know how to do it. The previous owner that took it to the dealership wired the fuel pump to a switch. The switch turns it on or off. Well the dealership didn't like that too much so they disconected this switch and the car has never ran very good since. I need help. I was wondering why you would want to do this and how to undo this. Also. the dealership doesn't know this but the boost presure sensor on the passenger shock tower is disconected. Will this cause the car to do this massive flooding? I really need to know whats going on so I can get it and get the car fixed so I can drive it. Thanks.
Charles

 

The previous owner hooked up switch for one of 2 reasons, #1 the car has low compression and is hard to start when hot, or #2, the car has leaky fuel injectors and has a problem starting when sitting to long. Re wiring is easy, and while your add it do the fuel pump re-wire mod (adding bigger guaged wires and its own relay). The car will not run properly (or not at all) with the map sensor not hooked up. BUYER BEWARE!!! Check to see if the cars got low compression or leaky injectors.

 

The switch is almost definately to prevent flooding- meaning low compression or leaky injectors.....
The boost sensor being unplugged could be baaad news.... Is the electrical plug unhooked or is the vacuum line unplugged???
IF it's electrical, then the ECU will resort to the failsafe value...and the car will NOT run very well...
if the vacuum line is unplugged, then the car could have been runnning very lean for a while, and prebably has detonation damage in the engine.....
DO a compression test...

 

$1000 for a blown engine Turbo II is a sweet deal considering after doing the rebuild yourself (or even professionally done) it's cheaper than bluebook.

 

I am curious how the switch stops the flooding problem? Probably a stupid question I just don't understand. When I bought my car it had a swith like that, the motor was blown so I didn't care. I figured it was a hell of a security feature, have you every tried to start a car without a working fuel pump, pumping; not going to happen! Mine was also hidden pretty well.

 

cars flooded,,,, means its got lots of fuel in chambers..... turn off fuel (hit the switch, turn off pump), turn motor over clearing the fuel out, engine sputters and fires (means all excess fuel is out or burnt), flip switch on,, (now pump pumps) start car,, go driving....

 

O.k thats what I just got discussing with someone. Much more clear now, I was thinking differently. Hell, it still makes a hell of a security system if the burglar is an idiot. :=)

 

The wireing clip was disconected. It has an fcd on it I guess. Thats what my friend said was the little box that was hanging from the disconected wire. If I plug it in will it run all nice? I'll get the compression test as soon as I can. Thanks for the help.

 

Even with a FCD (shudder), the pressure sensor (it's only called a boost sensor in a NA, go figure) SHOULD be connected. I would expect bad things to happen to the engine if it was not connected and the car is driven into boost.

 

Well luckily that hasn't happened Aaron. These guys are so scared of this car when I ask to see what it does when it turns on they give ME the key and stand way back. I asked them why and they said the engine shouldn't work with out pistons so they don't even turn it on. I laughed my *** off. It sounds great until you hit the gas in neutral. nice and bumpy like it should be with out that presure sensor conected. If I plug it in will it run better? Why shudder over a FCD? Whats wrong with them I'm new to the whole turbo thing. I used to be an N/A driver myself.
Charles

 

Hey yo I need to know if pluging the wires back in will fix it or not.
Charles

 

connect the pressure sensor definatly, also see if you can get the TID and see if the turbo is toast or not. Check and make sure all the sensors are plug in, cause what it sounds like is the car is getting unmetered air, the computer doesn't know how much air is entering the engine, so it doesn't know how much fuel to add, and usally goes into a failsafe mod, and it will run like ****.

 

Connect the pressure sensor. Also if its a 87 or a 88, it has the variable resistor to adjust for idle. If the variable resistor is too lean the turbo cars will run rough at idle to stalling. Last week I ohm'd my variable resistor out for a fellow on the forum and left it on full lean and reinstalled it. The next day coming and going from work the car wanted to die at each stop sign. Screwed it back to its more than less rich position and the car ran at its PERFECT 750 idle like all good RX-7 should. So take a glance at the position of the screw, and if its turned all the way anti-clockwise, give it a turn with a screwdriver. On the other hand its probably some other thing.

 

FCD = engine death

 

That's not true at all. I wish people would quit saying that.

Stupid owner= engine death...

 

Truer words were never spoken.

 

OK...

Stupid/newbie owner + FCD = engine death.

 

How so? I need some tips here on the FCD. I know what it does but but what does it DO that will **** an engine.
Charles

 

It just lets you boost more...It removes the fuel cut

Sooooo newbies will get that put in there and think theyre all set. Then when they start hitting more boost, theyll run hella lean and pop the motor. If you use an FCD, you should do something to get more fuel in there too.

 

Please forgive me guys, I have no idea what you guys are saying. I am aiming to get an N/A. Please tell me this probelm will not happen to me.

Also, the 7 I test drove ran extremely well. Does that mean the 7 I am going to buy has none of the problems listed here???

HELP!!!