I'm in powerband at 8krpm... is this bad? (video)
#1
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm in powerband at 8krpm... is this bad? (video)
Welp, I hooked up the new pump for the aux ports and vdi again. The old pump died from (what I think) is heat failure. It completely locked up. I installed the new pump outside of the engine bay in front of the radiator, as opposed to beign a few inches from the exhaust manifold.
Anyhow, now that the aux port and VDI systems are opperational, I'm finding myself still having power up to and beyond 8krpm. Damn the car sounds and feels sweet above 6k when its screaming.
Am I doing damage doing this? 8k is pretty high, but the power is there. Just curious. Roto-power
http://www.rerev.com/temp3/9krish.avi see attatched picture for codec info if you can't play the vid
Anyhow, now that the aux port and VDI systems are opperational, I'm finding myself still having power up to and beyond 8krpm. Damn the car sounds and feels sweet above 6k when its screaming.
Am I doing damage doing this? 8k is pretty high, but the power is there. Just curious. Roto-power
http://www.rerev.com/temp3/9krish.avi see attatched picture for codec info if you can't play the vid
#3
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
touche, fixing: http//:www.rerev.com/temp3/9kish.avi
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Exceeding factory redline can be dangerous because while the rotors may have no trouble spinning up to 10k other rotating masses will. Taking your car beyond 9,000 rpm or the stock rev limiter is going to break something inevitably. Remember just because you can doesn't mean you have to, I am sure it would be very uncomfortable to get a grenaded flywheel in the calves. I guess if you really wanted to go for broke and didn't care about damage you could install a scatter shield and just hope none of the shrapnel hit you as parts became airborn . Remember that is a lot of vibration and who knows what else could become loose aside from the flywheel.
Anyway sure rotaries have been known to go beyond 10 11 or 12k (with bridgeports and the like) unless you have the supporting mods I would stay within the limits set by your factory tach.
--Fritz
Anyway sure rotaries have been known to go beyond 10 11 or 12k (with bridgeports and the like) unless you have the supporting mods I would stay within the limits set by your factory tach.
--Fritz
#7
his 7k redline is because the car was once an automatic.
since he swapped the auto tranny and 3.9 diff for a manual with a 4.1 geared diff, the 8k redline is normal for all s5 manual NAs. having power till 8k is not such a big deal or problem. It just looks worse since you still have the auto gauge cluster.. maybe get a s5 manual gauge cluster and take it to 9k? hehe
since he swapped the auto tranny and 3.9 diff for a manual with a 4.1 geared diff, the 8k redline is normal for all s5 manual NAs. having power till 8k is not such a big deal or problem. It just looks worse since you still have the auto gauge cluster.. maybe get a s5 manual gauge cluster and take it to 9k? hehe
Trending Topics
#8
Wait................What?
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Raleigh/Cary, NC - USA
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Taking it to 8K is no problem dude.... I'd say 8200 would be my limit. Unfortunately I have a 7k redline in my 89 GTU since I have a S4 block (supercharging, lower compression rotors in S4)
#10
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: fl
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
with some mods like yours an s5 will pull beyond 8k. just dont go too far, not only is it bad for the internals but your tranny synchros will poop out if you try to shift over 8k.
#11
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by poor_red_neck
Ah man.... NO SOUND?!
That sucks.
That sucks.
Thanks for the input guys. I too wouldn't mind taking it on a dyno just to see how it does. The aux ports defiantely made all the difference from exiting the powerband at 6250rpm to being full in it past 8k. I've been having some fun on the highway with it.
The one thing I've noticed though is the aux ports opening witht he air pump at 3800. When they take a second to open, and by that time, you *REALLY* feel the difference. If I could justify it, I'd get a rev-switch and place it at 3400ish to give the air pump the second or so to pressurize the lines. By the time the VDI opens, you're *** is firmly planted into the seat
I don't think I had the aux ports ever working this good. Hopefuly this air pump will last longer being attatched outside of the engine bay. Plus... when that thing starts up and screams being in the nose of the car, man people gotta here it. Seeing a loud *** intake, loud *** air pump, loud *** pulleys (sound like a turbo spooling above when above 5k) and once it goes by, ghetto loud *** exhaust, lol.
#13
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by chumma7
post a pic of your engine bay, im curious to see this setup
#18
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by chumma7
woah man, cool that it worked out well. but whats teh benefit of that over keeping the rat's nest and using the stock air pump?
hehe, the oil bottle freaked me out
hehe, the oil bottle freaked me out
I look at it this way, before my engine bay was a cluster, packed full of stuff. Now I can look at it and see a mess of wires I put there, but thats ok cause I know what every wire does.
the rats nest was in my way when I was removing the manifolds for new gaskets. It was half because i didn't want to sit down and try to figure out every vac line placement, and half because I was removing emissions, and that is the vacrac's main purpose.
Stock air pump, its gone, along with PS and AC. If those pulleys were still there, i highly doub't i could come close to 8k, and if I did, I certainly wouldn't be in the powerband like I am now.
Also, this makes the opening of the aux ports adjustable. Right now its settup to open at stock points, but I could add a switch (RPM, or manual) and have them open up whenever I wanted them to.
Its kinda like VTECH for a rotary
#19
Like Ghandi with a gun
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not to bump, but to say I've been laid off all this week so I did some changes. I got a new air filter, same type and location, but its actually clean and seals much better than the old one. I'm thinking about routing the intake into the fenderwell for CAI. I'll check up with the other threads on that to see how it goes.
I removed the castrol GTX catch-can/bottle. Venting straight to pavement now, though its leaving new marks in the driveway.
I also reran the only two air-solenoids so they are easily visible/maintanced: The FPR and VDI solenoids are attatched to the Dynamic chamber, and seem to be liking their new home.
I ran new vac hose for the aux ports as the hold rubber had become so brittle that it just shattered when i went to twist with pliers. Sitting over the exhaust manifold does that I guess. I doubt it was sealing well before anyway.
I also added some hose clamps to the aux port/vdi distro valve. I've been used to seeing the aux ports slowly open, but now they open in about half a second or so. The air pump had been relocated, as seen in the above pictures to infront of the radiator. The old pump overheated and the magents busted in the old motor which was mounted near the exhaust manny.
I also reinstalled the BAC which regained me so much driveability its insane. Very glad I did this, and wish i would have sooner.
Finaly. Makenzie71's custom exhaust should be here soon. Custom headers to a flowmaster 60 series mock, and two apexi n1s. I'm looking forward to havign an exhaust that wil actually go all the way back. A small power bump will be nice from it too, but I don't know what to expect from it. The system I have now is manny, downpipe, flowmaster 40 series, glasspack, exitting just under the rear subframe crossmember.
I removed the castrol GTX catch-can/bottle. Venting straight to pavement now, though its leaving new marks in the driveway.
I also reran the only two air-solenoids so they are easily visible/maintanced: The FPR and VDI solenoids are attatched to the Dynamic chamber, and seem to be liking their new home.
I ran new vac hose for the aux ports as the hold rubber had become so brittle that it just shattered when i went to twist with pliers. Sitting over the exhaust manifold does that I guess. I doubt it was sealing well before anyway.
I also added some hose clamps to the aux port/vdi distro valve. I've been used to seeing the aux ports slowly open, but now they open in about half a second or so. The air pump had been relocated, as seen in the above pictures to infront of the radiator. The old pump overheated and the magents busted in the old motor which was mounted near the exhaust manny.
I also reinstalled the BAC which regained me so much driveability its insane. Very glad I did this, and wish i would have sooner.
Finaly. Makenzie71's custom exhaust should be here soon. Custom headers to a flowmaster 60 series mock, and two apexi n1s. I'm looking forward to havign an exhaust that wil actually go all the way back. A small power bump will be nice from it too, but I don't know what to expect from it. The system I have now is manny, downpipe, flowmaster 40 series, glasspack, exitting just under the rear subframe crossmember.
#20
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
With my previous S5, I used the stock ECU signals with an electric air pump.
The blue wire in this picture is the black ground signal wire in the schematic above.
The blue wire in this picture is the black ground signal wire in the schematic above.
Last edited by SureShot; 08-27-04 at 07:30 AM.
#22
Ready to Rock
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 726
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by WonkoTheSane
What types of air pumps are you guys using, because I need to do this, It would be nice not to have to manually switch to open ports
#23
Green Flameless
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: North Central PA
Posts: 2,242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ultradef
A lot of people use an electric air pump out of a Corvette, but pretty much any automotive electric air pump could be used.
Edit: I guess it's relevant to ask where people get their RPM switches, too? I'm looking at one on Ebay I'm thinking about jumping on, but any good source to get new ones?
Last edited by WonkoTheSane; 08-27-04 at 09:03 AM.
#25
Rotary Enthusiast
this thread is misleading... I've never seen an 6-port NA make power above 8000 RPM. Even the Renesis starts to drop off around 8000. Unless you have a Bridgeport, there is no way you can get enough air to make power that high. Put your car on the dyno and you'll see it fall off after you pass 7500 RPM.
Please keep your "Butt Dyno" results to yourself.
Please keep your "Butt Dyno" results to yourself.