im not very smart
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 30
From: And the horse he rode in on...
I'm not either.
But you are smart enough to respect that light.
Rotaries are pretty unforgiving to overheating.
You probably have air in the cooling system and it doesn't get in there unless you have some type of problem or unless you just filled the system and it hasn't fully burped.
Let the engine cool completely down. Then pull the EGI fuse (under the hood). remove the radiator cap. Have a helper crank the engine and look for bubbles. If you have big belching bubbles and surging coolant-you need a rebuild.
Do this test then check back.
Good Luck and welcome to the board.
Rotaries are pretty unforgiving to overheating.You probably have air in the cooling system and it doesn't get in there unless you have some type of problem or unless you just filled the system and it hasn't fully burped.
Let the engine cool completely down. Then pull the EGI fuse (under the hood). remove the radiator cap. Have a helper crank the engine and look for bubbles. If you have big belching bubbles and surging coolant-you need a rebuild.
Do this test then check back.
Good Luck and welcome to the board.
Find the end it's supposed to be connected to.
That sensor provides a ground when the coolant level is OK and breaks the ground and trips the buzzer when it's not.
Could be that the unconnected sensor wire has been grounded somehow and now it's not.
That sensor provides a ground when the coolant level is OK and breaks the ground and trips the buzzer when it's not.
Could be that the unconnected sensor wire has been grounded somehow and now it's not.
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
To the passenger side, then down into the rest of the harness...
It has a connector on the end of it.
Stick that to the chassis ground and see if the light/buzzer turns off.
If yes, then you have a bubble.
Jack the front of the car up, way up. (Support with jack stands or park that car on a steep hill, pointing up.)
Run the engine till it's warm according to the gauge and let it idle a few minutes...
Turn it off and let it cool down.
Pull the sensor and add coolant to the sensor hole.
Replace the sensor.
Done deal.
It has a connector on the end of it.
Stick that to the chassis ground and see if the light/buzzer turns off.
If yes, then you have a bubble.
Jack the front of the car up, way up. (Support with jack stands or park that car on a steep hill, pointing up.)
Run the engine till it's warm according to the gauge and let it idle a few minutes...
Turn it off and let it cool down.
Pull the sensor and add coolant to the sensor hole.
Replace the sensor.
Done deal.
The pigtail on the sensor is fairly short- around 4" or so- and the harness wire it should be connected to is probably floating around in front of your rad somewhere.
It's a long single wire...easy to lose track of (or rip off).
It's a long single wire...easy to lose track of (or rip off).
i found the wire way down bottom. who ever changed the motor on this thing did a hack job. anyway it stopped buzzing and the light went out. thanks for all the help. on to the other problems.
Oh and it helps to not title your thread with something like "I'm not very smart". You are smart to own an FC, smart enough to follow directions that had a good result. Don't sell yourself short. And welcome to the club.
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