Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I think I blew a rotor.

But here's the thing I checked compression on the front rotor and
it's fine(about 95).

I checked the back rotor and nothing. No pumps at all on the gauge. I hooked the gauge up the same on both. Throttle wide open and the needle doesn't budge.

And something else, when I pulled the plug on the front, good rotor it was covered in gas to the point of dripping.

I don't know.

Unholy FD3S

im a noob on this so i dont know man, im sure someone will help you

NOPR

0 compression typically means blown engine, but if you can get it to start, it could run on one rotor and the other could kick on. ive seen it happen before. however, if everything is hooked up and it just wont start, its probably done.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Compression tests don't lie.

Here is what your internals look like on that dead half:

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...nt_damage.html

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Yeah when I pulled the back plug there was a peice of something shiny (probably aluminum) stuck in between the electrode and ground.






I do have a 88 N/A motor. I know it's been covered but, while I'm here, is it a plausible, acceptible, good idea to strip the N/A block and put the turbo bolt ons on it? Just swap short block basically. I know the higher compression might be a problem but...being that I have the N/A it'd be cheaper than a rebuild or buting a motor.

lchaidez

iTrader: (4)

thats scary -.-

NOPR

yeah, that engine is toast




eh... sort of. there a million threads if you search for 'turbo n/a' or '6 port turbo'

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

ive turboed a NA block with decent results before... how high is the milage on the block??

i will tell you this much if u turbo a NA block with 200K miles dont expect it to last very long heh heh.....

now the Na block is a 6 port and the turbo is a 4 port meaning the manifold wont line up correctly...

the simplest way to make it work would require someone to jb weld or by welding fill in part of the manifold and then grinding it out to match the 6 port, ie port matching then bolting all yr turbo manifolds and ect up to it, you also need some block off plates also i belive... for egr and ect

heres a pic of my port matching, this was half way through the processor this is after i added some weld also


then running custom oil lines, this is the setup i chose


another method which is more costly is to use na intake manifolds and space the turbo out an inch which requires fabbing a spacer custom downpipe and custom intake using a front mount... ie alot of money...

shoot me a pm and id be happy to explaint he process in more detail if you like

then the other method which is more expensive


all in all, the na motor takes to boost quite well, the power i made was pretty impressive, you will actually make more power then using a turbo motor, due to higher compression and overall larger port area with a 6 port .

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

The N/A block only has about 80,xxx miles on it.

Also, I have a dead 89 N/A Rx7 and some extra parts that I think I'm going to try to sell and see how much money I can get and then go from there.

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

Ya know the cars runs better now with a blown rotor than it did with both firing!
Nice and smooth!

I don't have a place to pull the engine at my house so I need to get it to my parents house which is 30 miles away. If I unplug the injectors and coils for the bad rotor you think it'll make the drive? I mean it can't get more dead!


TURBOCHARGED SINGLE ROTOR MOTOR!!!

rlse2003

its just hurts to look at those

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Yes, you can still drive a blown motor...just don't stop on any hills, and slip the clutch a LOT. You will kill a clutch disc in short time, though.