Im Lost
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Im Lost
hey i have a vaccum prob. i got a loose vaccum line. it sits on the side of the top side of the manifold. when i got the car it had a screw stuck in it. im wondering does that have anything to do with my idle. it sits on the top manifold to the left side of the intercooler (not the side of the spark plugs). where does that line go to??
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Your airplane has a right wing and a left wing. Right and left is always refered to as the pilot looks fwd. You described the right side of the engine. Looking at this jpg, in relationship to the hand, where is this vac hose. Small one, right///?? Is the other end connected to anything. Seems you have a turbo in a na. A transplant. I see why the confusion.
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its on the side the turbo is on. and it is a 87 turbo II. its near the top part of the manifold. kinda by the intercooler. can someone go out side and tell me where that wire goes?
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ok that pic looks like a non turbo. this is a turbo. its above the turbo. there is no vacum diagram that i can see of the side of that engine closely.(same side as turbo)
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ok im tryin my best im not near the car. i know there are alot on that side. but this is totally separate from all of the others. it is close to the air control valve. it had a little hose on it that some just stuck a screw into. is there anyway i can get a side of a 87 tII (turbo side) where i can see all lines closely so i can determine which it is?
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#12
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Here's a post I made about it somewhere else:
Well, you take it apart this far:
Remove the rack, make new fuel lines. Block off everything (ACV, EGR, BAC, etc.), remove the switching actuator and wire the door open. (You can leave the solenoid if you don't want to mess with the flapper. I just took my turbo and manifold off since I was porting the wastegate, and took the flapper out and TIG'd over the resulting hole).
Put it back together. The vacuum lines left should be:
Boost sensor, BOV (tee'd together), FPR (stick anywhere downstream of the TB), and the 4 oil injector vacuum lines. They go to the spider looking thing, and hook to the backside of the upper intake. Buy some screw protectors from the hardware store and block off any unused vacuum nipples.
Put it all back together and enjoy.
Well, you take it apart this far:
Remove the rack, make new fuel lines. Block off everything (ACV, EGR, BAC, etc.), remove the switching actuator and wire the door open. (You can leave the solenoid if you don't want to mess with the flapper. I just took my turbo and manifold off since I was porting the wastegate, and took the flapper out and TIG'd over the resulting hole).
Put it back together. The vacuum lines left should be:
Boost sensor, BOV (tee'd together), FPR (stick anywhere downstream of the TB), and the 4 oil injector vacuum lines. They go to the spider looking thing, and hook to the backside of the upper intake. Buy some screw protectors from the hardware store and block off any unused vacuum nipples.
Put it all back together and enjoy.
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thanks. looks kinda difficult but i guess ill get it. i hope i still got my haynes manual looking around. taking your turbo and manifold off wasnt hard was it?
#15
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You don't need to take the turbo off to redo the vacuum lines, just seperate the upper manifold from the lower. The turbo is a pain to get off the first time, due to the nuts being stubborn, and the heat shields being in the way.
Is the turbo glowing red? That's not good.
Is the turbo glowing red? That's not good.
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The jpg I put on the first post was definitly a turbo. Its just the best view I could find right now. Does this vac hose come out of a nipple on the intake, and does this nipple point straight out towards the right fender? You should have two relativly long hose. One on the acv going to the boost sensor and another one just aft of that one going to a valve on the turbo inlet duct That valve is a AIR BYPASS VALVE sometimes called a blow off valve. Black in color. Or there is another hose that goes to the switching actuator on the turbo. That switching actuator has a long, about 3/16 pipe, maybe two feet in length that travels up and aft. You know, you can trace most of these hose by blowing smoke from the point or origin and watching where it comes out. Then connect to the appropriate spot. Like go to the switching solenoid and take the outlet hose off and blow smoke and make sure its going to the nipple on the acv that points straight up. Or go to the relief solenoid and blow smoke into the outlet and make sure it goes to the nipple at the bottom of the acv etc. Ah heck. A good picture is waht you need.
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Yup, Herr Wankel, das ist das picture. Unfortunatly he got that pic on his other thread at https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=56435 When I first saw that pic sometime ago I said huzzah! Then I tried to follow the lines from one end to the other. I took my huzzah back. Hard if not impossible to do. Say you trying to trace the acv lines. It gets a bit muddled where all the lines come together. Oh. I read your post with the pictures and the remarks. I noticed you don't take into account the metal nipple that comes up b/t the two oil injectors on the intake that feed the air bleeds for the primary injectors. Some day we'll find out just exactly why Mazda put that air feed to the primary injectors. I've yet to read anything negative about capping off that air source. Both turbo and n/a have one. Its just by axedent that I ever got my vac hose figured out on my car. All that mess was burnt up on the car I bought. Need to get a digital camera.
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