im going to paint my car PROJECT, HELP!
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From: OH
thanks for the info.
what should i do with seam/crease line dents? same thing? should i start from the edges of the seam and ping shrink both sides then pull in between?
this is what i mean, say there is the seam dent
----------------------------------------
^................................................^
strat here............................and here
..........................^
then pull the rest out in between
thanks
what should i do with seam/crease line dents? same thing? should i start from the edges of the seam and ping shrink both sides then pull in between?
this is what i mean, say there is the seam dent
----------------------------------------
^................................................^
strat here............................and here
..........................^
then pull the rest out in between
thanks
Last edited by darksider; May 21, 2006 at 01:25 PM.
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From: OH
im somewhat finished with the exterior, just need to get the cracks. i was readin up on por 15 and it seems like a good product for primer and prep. can this stuff be bought at a store? or is it only offered to order online? thanks
Thread Starter
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From: OH
WHAT!? thats what it states, whats a good brand sealer for bare aluminun and old paint? im goin to spray it with a 1.3 tip hvlp gun.
im also concern about the under body subframe rails (where they use to lift the car on the lift or where you would put jack stands). its starting to show light rust and i know most of you guys are experiencing this because theres no othere way to put it on jackstand/lift. should i be concern or is the matel strong enough for the rust? i wanted to por 15 it but it will probably be strip by a lift again. thanks
im also concern about the under body subframe rails (where they use to lift the car on the lift or where you would put jack stands). its starting to show light rust and i know most of you guys are experiencing this because theres no othere way to put it on jackstand/lift. should i be concern or is the matel strong enough for the rust? i wanted to por 15 it but it will probably be strip by a lift again. thanks
Vallejo is in SoCal? BLACK! BLACK BLACK! Here are some links that maybe helpful. You get what you pay for.
http://www.1daypaint.com/
http://www.mobworks.com/
http://maps.google.com/maps?oi=map&q...,+Torrance,+CA
310 reppin' yo! LOL
PS you can try CLR to remove rust.
http://www.1daypaint.com/
http://www.mobworks.com/
http://maps.google.com/maps?oi=map&q...,+Torrance,+CA
310 reppin' yo! LOL
PS you can try CLR to remove rust.
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 25,896
Likes: 24
From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by eatmyclutch
Vallejo is in SoCal? BLACK! BLACK BLACK! Here are some links that maybe helpful. You get what you pay for.
http://www.1daypaint.com/
http://www.mobworks.com/
http://maps.google.com/maps?oi=map&q...,+Torrance,+CA
310 reppin' yo! LOL
PS you can try CLR to remove rust.
http://www.1daypaint.com/
http://www.mobworks.com/
http://maps.google.com/maps?oi=map&q...,+Torrance,+CA
310 reppin' yo! LOL
PS you can try CLR to remove rust.
Thread Starter
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From: OH
ahhhhhhhhhh. ok . well where should i go to get what i need? kregans and autozone and pepboys are my local. which would you perfer (as different strores will have different brands)?
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From: OH
on last ting for now, can i use this stuff to clean the car in between prepping periods?
http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/CLEANE...7/Default.aspx
im looking at the
# marine Clean -
# Metal Ready -
# AP-120 -
# POR-15 Solvent -
# POR-STRIP -
or is there something more sutable for the job im doing at the stores? thanks
ps, i checked out home depot and they had some ****, primer, sealrs, etc. can i use that stuff on the exterior? again im spraying it on.
http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/CLEANE...7/Default.aspx
im looking at the
# marine Clean -
# Metal Ready -
# AP-120 -
# POR-15 Solvent -
# POR-STRIP -
or is there something more sutable for the job im doing at the stores? thanks
ps, i checked out home depot and they had some ****, primer, sealrs, etc. can i use that stuff on the exterior? again im spraying it on.
Last edited by darksider; May 25, 2006 at 12:30 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: OH
progress.
i got to pull out the dents as much as i could with a ping hammer from behind. now i need to know what rust kill chemical do i need to bathe the car in so i can start using bondo. will this be bad for the paint thats still on the car since i decided not to take the whole car down to metal. thanks
i got to pull out the dents as much as i could with a ping hammer from behind. now i need to know what rust kill chemical do i need to bathe the car in so i can start using bondo. will this be bad for the paint thats still on the car since i decided not to take the whole car down to metal. thanks
There is no chemical for "killing" rust.
All have to do where rust is is this:
1) Grind it down to shiny metal.
1a)If you find holes/deep pits and can't get the metal 100% shinybecause of them, cut out the piece and weld in another to the affected area.
2) if the rust grinds off and leaves clean shiny metal.......fill/sand/prime.
2a)where you have patched (if you needed to) grind down the welds so they won't portrude out of te filler once its applied, and then fill/sand/prime.
All have to do where rust is is this:
1) Grind it down to shiny metal.
1a)If you find holes/deep pits and can't get the metal 100% shinybecause of them, cut out the piece and weld in another to the affected area.
2) if the rust grinds off and leaves clean shiny metal.......fill/sand/prime.
2a)where you have patched (if you needed to) grind down the welds so they won't portrude out of te filler once its applied, and then fill/sand/prime.
Thread Starter
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From: OH
Originally Posted by JunpoweR
Hey call me or im for help with your car..
I paint cars for a living.
If you just want to primer your car use a good quality brand sealer like DUpont or PPG(I use PPG strictly)
The results with workability are very important ..The finished job will reflect the materials you used..
Materials are expensive and cost about 800-1400 for each car I paint..PPG materials..Deltron base coats and clears.
Here a few steps in painting a car professionaly..
if its down to metal here is where you start
#1
Metal bath\prep to nutralize rust and other surface contaminents.rinse and dry
#2
Wax and grease remover then tack cloth to remove dust particles.
#3
Paint a primer etch/surfacer to build a good surface for paint to stick.
#4
Sand and smooth for Primer sealer.
#5
Wash then wax and grease remover again.Tack cloth.
#6
Primer sealer.There certian types you can spray but make sure you spray it well (no runs or drips)
#7
If you sprayed with no runs or imperfections then you can spray base color right onto the tacky primer..We do this to get inner coat adhesion..
#8
Then after a run free spray with base you can spray clear coat onto the base if not completely cured..If completely cured you have to sand/scuff.
1st coat must be dry and textured and tacky before 2nd coat of clear..Why? well you want those pockets for the wet coat of clear to stick to and fill that will prevent runs on the second wet coat.I sometimes over reduce the clear for water like application but you have to be very careful not to get runs.or you will have to remove the runs and wet sand and rebase and clear the area again..
#9
taking you painted the primers and color/clear with no runs and the clear has air cured for 3 days.Now it's ready for the wet sanding andd buff and polishing..I wont get into that but it is very important again to use quality materials and tools such as the buffer..
anybody with questions can contact me through PM or aim
I paint cars for a living.
If you just want to primer your car use a good quality brand sealer like DUpont or PPG(I use PPG strictly)
The results with workability are very important ..The finished job will reflect the materials you used..
Materials are expensive and cost about 800-1400 for each car I paint..PPG materials..Deltron base coats and clears.
Here a few steps in painting a car professionaly..
if its down to metal here is where you start
#1
Metal bath\prep to nutralize rust and other surface contaminents.rinse and dry
#2
Wax and grease remover then tack cloth to remove dust particles.
#3
Paint a primer etch/surfacer to build a good surface for paint to stick.
#4
Sand and smooth for Primer sealer.
#5
Wash then wax and grease remover again.Tack cloth.
#6
Primer sealer.There certian types you can spray but make sure you spray it well (no runs or drips)
#7
If you sprayed with no runs or imperfections then you can spray base color right onto the tacky primer..We do this to get inner coat adhesion..
#8
Then after a run free spray with base you can spray clear coat onto the base if not completely cured..If completely cured you have to sand/scuff.
1st coat must be dry and textured and tacky before 2nd coat of clear..Why? well you want those pockets for the wet coat of clear to stick to and fill that will prevent runs on the second wet coat.I sometimes over reduce the clear for water like application but you have to be very careful not to get runs.or you will have to remove the runs and wet sand and rebase and clear the area again..
#9
taking you painted the primers and color/clear with no runs and the clear has air cured for 3 days.Now it's ready for the wet sanding andd buff and polishing..I wont get into that but it is very important again to use quality materials and tools such as the buffer..
anybody with questions can contact me through PM or aim
Well by the looks of his description he's talking about wiping the car down with degreaser (since he says if the car is already in bare metal)
YBy neutralizing rust, he doesn't mean "this large rusty/crusty hunk of steel gets wiped wit a magical liquid that neutralizes rust" he means wiping the bare metal down to remove any contaminants that wil cause rust like hand/finger oils, moisture things like that as well as contaminents that will reduce adhesion like silicones and waxes.
Basially you just have to make sure the bare metal is cleaned/degreased to the nines, becase if it isn't, ANY contamination will greatly accelerate rusting in those affected areas and possibly (depending on what the contaminant is) casue the paint/primer to lift.
edit: after reading Junpower's post I have to say that he has somedecent info, but some things are confusing /misleading. Don't take that list as ghospel.
YBy neutralizing rust, he doesn't mean "this large rusty/crusty hunk of steel gets wiped wit a magical liquid that neutralizes rust" he means wiping the bare metal down to remove any contaminants that wil cause rust like hand/finger oils, moisture things like that as well as contaminents that will reduce adhesion like silicones and waxes.
Basially you just have to make sure the bare metal is cleaned/degreased to the nines, becase if it isn't, ANY contamination will greatly accelerate rusting in those affected areas and possibly (depending on what the contaminant is) casue the paint/primer to lift.
edit: after reading Junpower's post I have to say that he has somedecent info, but some things are confusing /misleading. Don't take that list as ghospel.
Last edited by classicauto; May 29, 2006 at 04:48 PM.
[QUOTE=
edit: after reading Junpower's post I have to say that he has somedecent info, but some things are confusing /misleading. Don't take that list as ghospel.[/QUOTE]
Yea your right i can explain things very confusing =)
and true don't just listen to me..
Go online and mabey buy a book on how to refinish a car.
Sorry about the confusion.
I was talking about metal prep.
a acid/etching solution usually mixed with water.
here is a link to the product.
http://www.halonmarketing.com/mall/R...tal%20Prep.htm
here is a little info on the stuff
Metal Prep & Conditioner
After paint and rust have been removed, it is advisable to final clean the metal. Metal Prep is a cleaner and conditioner for metal. This product will remove light surface rust and properly etch the metal for better paint adhesion. It leaves a light coat of zinc phosphate to protect the metal from air and moisture. This barrier will ensure that rust does not develop under a new paint job.
Once the metal has been prepped, if necessary, the prepped metal may sit months or even years, (covered with a cotton sheet or cloth car cover and kept in a warm, dry environment) before priming and painting. Metal Prep delivers years of extra wear to a paint job.
Metal Prep is the extra step that truly makes the difference in a restoration project.
Methods of Application:
Apply Metal Prep to bare metal. Spray, brush or wipe Metal Prep onto metal surface. Scuff with a nylon scrub pad making certain the surface is smooth and clean. While wet with Metal Prep, wipe surface with a clean cloth in a smooth, even direction. Do not rub in a circular motion.
If there are rusty spots, soak by using a cotton chamois or folded paper towel and allow the area to sit from 20 minutes to 1 to 2 hours. Buff with a Scotch-Brite pad and rewet. Buff over the area again when all the rust is removed. Do not let it air dry, or it will turn black. Use a paper towel to dry, wiping in a smooth, even direction. Do not rub in a circular motion.
Allow 2 - 3 hours to cure if you plan to prime and paint immediately. Do not prime until you are ready to paint.
Metal Prep can be neutralized with water in case of an accident. Use plenty of water to thoroughly clean the area
good luck on your job and show us when your done..
edit: after reading Junpower's post I have to say that he has somedecent info, but some things are confusing /misleading. Don't take that list as ghospel.[/QUOTE]
Yea your right i can explain things very confusing =)
and true don't just listen to me..
Go online and mabey buy a book on how to refinish a car.
Sorry about the confusion.
I was talking about metal prep.
a acid/etching solution usually mixed with water.
here is a link to the product.
http://www.halonmarketing.com/mall/R...tal%20Prep.htm
here is a little info on the stuff
Metal Prep & Conditioner
After paint and rust have been removed, it is advisable to final clean the metal. Metal Prep is a cleaner and conditioner for metal. This product will remove light surface rust and properly etch the metal for better paint adhesion. It leaves a light coat of zinc phosphate to protect the metal from air and moisture. This barrier will ensure that rust does not develop under a new paint job.
Once the metal has been prepped, if necessary, the prepped metal may sit months or even years, (covered with a cotton sheet or cloth car cover and kept in a warm, dry environment) before priming and painting. Metal Prep delivers years of extra wear to a paint job.
Metal Prep is the extra step that truly makes the difference in a restoration project.
Methods of Application:
Apply Metal Prep to bare metal. Spray, brush or wipe Metal Prep onto metal surface. Scuff with a nylon scrub pad making certain the surface is smooth and clean. While wet with Metal Prep, wipe surface with a clean cloth in a smooth, even direction. Do not rub in a circular motion.
If there are rusty spots, soak by using a cotton chamois or folded paper towel and allow the area to sit from 20 minutes to 1 to 2 hours. Buff with a Scotch-Brite pad and rewet. Buff over the area again when all the rust is removed. Do not let it air dry, or it will turn black. Use a paper towel to dry, wiping in a smooth, even direction. Do not rub in a circular motion.
Allow 2 - 3 hours to cure if you plan to prime and paint immediately. Do not prime until you are ready to paint.
Metal Prep can be neutralized with water in case of an accident. Use plenty of water to thoroughly clean the area
good luck on your job and show us when your done..
