make sure the afm is plugged in, that is a common mistake.

If it is not that then it is an intake leak.

-Marques

 

Check that AFM. Even swap in another one if you can. If the AFM is not connected, bad wiring, not working properly etc. It will do what you are describing: start up but immediately die. I had the problem on my car, but I found a bad wire on the AFM connector. As soon as I fixed it, she ran fine again.

 

It's funny that you guys mention the afm. When I start the car, or keep it running with starter fluid, the afm will bang around constantly. Like the flapper door will slam open-shut-open-shut, and you can hear it plain as day... So could it be that the afm itself is caput? How could I test the wiring too? I mean, how'd you know it was one of the wires on the connection piece? That kind of makes sense with the loud banging my afm does... Never did that before, that's for sure. How do I go about checking my afm?

-K

 

i can almost guaranteee its an afm problem mine did the same exact thing and it was the afm. try swapping the afm from your dads 88 into your car and see if that works before buying a new one. it wont make a difference that it is an na they are pretty much the same. if that fixes the problem get a new afm

 

after talking to my mechanic, he says that the afm from turbo to na's are gonna be alot different, and aren't gonna swap around. He's pretty sure it's fuel starvation or too much fuel, as is my father, and another friend of mine. But I have my new injectors now (High impedance), and I'll be installing those here within the hour, and see how that works. If it's still not idling, I'll try the afm.

-K

 

i used an na afm on my 87 t2 for quiet awhile because i coulnt get another one. believe me it will work at least long enough to find out if that is your proble. if the car starts and runs okay get a new afm

 

UPDATE:

New injectors installed yesterday - same result. Car will start, and then die. Swapped out afm with 87 n/a afm. Same result. So today is the real test.. Today, I go and find a real fuel pressure meter/guage, and one that hooks up to an import car (we have one that hooks up to domestics only) and then we'll see what's going on. If the fuel pressure isn't there, well then, it's the regulator. If it is there, then I'm gonna kill someone. I suppose I'd try unhooking my afc or something. I don't know. But we'll be finding out today! I'm hoping it's the regulator... I wanted to get an aftermarket regulator anyway. Wish me luck guys. And keep those ideas on what the problem might be coming! Because it also might not be the regulator.. So keep brainstorming!
Thanks guys.

-K

 

Just curious, did you find the problem?

 

Check the voltage on the black/yellow wires used to power the ignition coils and EGI, especially when it dies. If you've installed any kind of fuel pump switch or EGI cut-off switch it might be poorly done and causing all sorts of problems. A car I bought in NC and drove back to IL had a switch installed by the previous owner on the EGI fuse, it caused similar problems due to low & inconsistent voltage for the EGI. Shitty switch and incorrect gauge of wire was used.

 

I don't think he did, he then killed some one, and is now residing in one of the Ohio State Corrections facilities with out internet access.