Here's the metal gasket I made to block off the OMP from the front cover and also a jpg of the pump with some words.

 

So your telling me it wouldn't matter if they were connected? i left the oring on the OMP. I didn't block off the little passage but i will now. I don't know how i would have a leak becasue i used a **** ton of gasket sealer lol. i guess im goign to have to take it off and redo the whole setup.

 

If your going to use the pump Patman devised, then it matters not if the two are connected. It's ALMOST desirable. That's so the pressure off the engine oil pump will dump right back into the pan.

On Patmans OMP you only want the oil reservoir YOU made, to feed the OMP.

IF you ever go back to the stock OMP configuration, then having those two holes on the front cover connected together isn't so cool. How much that would effect the operation of the stock OMP is up in the air as far as I'm concerned.

On the stock config, the engine oil pump sends oil thru the front cover via an approx 1/16th hole in the mating surface of the front cover and front housing. The oil travels over to the right lower side of the front cover and enters the shaft that turns the OMP. Travels up that shaft to the CAVITY in the OMP itself where you just drilled your new feed nipple to your own reservoir. THEN it exits that cavity and dumps into the pan right away.

Just my way of saying the Engine oil pump supplys the OMP with oil, but does not pressurize the OMP. The OMP itself makes pressure to send metered oil into the injector feed lines.

So even on a stock setup, the two passages (pressure and hole to the pan) are connected to some extent. How much that groove you made would effect things is ????? to me. Aint a gonna experiment to find out. Anyway, if the future if you wanted to rectify the *groove*, I'd bet some JBWeld and sanding it smooth would return it to stock.

Keep working on the pump and your reservoir though. That setup will work if you can find a good place to locate a reservoir and a reservoir large enough to not hassle you. I didn't. I finally said I'm tired of messing with this and returned to stock. Works fine for me and hassle free.

I did try another method after that. I got a gallon tin can and attached a windshield washer motor to its bottom side and put a hose on it and elect leads on the wiper pump. Fed the hose into a tee on the fuel tanks vent hose and put the gallon can in the spare wheel well (leaving the spare in place).

Then each time I filled the tank up, I'd switch the wiper pump on and count to thirty (thirty seconds fills a 16oz container). Sorta worked but was not thought out very well. When the tank fumes expand in the summer, the fumes went into the new gallon tank and into the crew compartment. Not that nice.

So I abandoned that hose going into the vent hose of the fuel tank and just made it long enough to reach the fuel tank filler. Sooooooooooo...go to fill up at the gas station.......put long hose into the gas tank filler and switch the pump on for thirty seconds......then fill the fuel tank up at the fuel pump. Only advantage to this is is the gallon can holds 132 oz and that should cover approx 8 fillups before having to mess with refilling the gallon can. Make sense? Probably some to little sense. I've reinstalled the stock OMP. No hassle pump that works good enough for my stock cars. Long freaking post. Toooo long.

 

You never have to long of posts. I took my pump off i have pictures. i would like to keep the 2 stroke injection because my cars not stock and theres alot of gas that gets mixed in with oil in the oil pan (for my liking anyways). Plus i like the fact i when i pop my hood theres a container that says 2 stroke.

 

heres the pics. i didnt put them on here so you can look at all of them in bigger images. sorry the shots arn't to good the camera sucked. Found out that the one line that wasn't getting oil the hole is strpped out. The block off plate was ON THERE it was sealed pretty freaking good. look at the indentaitons it made on both sides of the plate. when i took the omp off i had to hit it to get it off and getting the plate off the omp was a bit forcefull.

http://img101.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=omp009.jpg

 

i guess the only way my jug could drain is if that block off plate was leaking or the **** leaks out on the ground lol.

 

Yeah. The round hole in the front cover is the only path to the pan. Got me how it's getting by.

 

well hell. i guess im going to try to do it all over again and see the outcome

 

MY lower front line started acting up again (no oil flow) so I took it apart a few minutes ago. The problem was bad workmanship on my part. I had debris in the bore of the OMP. RTV to be exact. I'd put RTV on the front plate in the past and the squeeze out when I installed that plate caused the debris in the bore stopping up the flow to the lower front line.

See jpg. The blob of RTV is layed outside the bore on the top of the radiator, although you can see some other debris in the bore still there. Lesson is to make gaskets out of 1/32" thick gasket paper and not use RTV on this installation.

 

Thats funnny you did that because i just took mine apart to see if there was anythign in side it. it was crisp clean

 

I put it back together and.............the problem move to another oil injector line. Got me..for right now.

I've spare oil lines and banjo fittings. I can take off the line that is empty and install a banjo fitting with line. I leave the end of the new line that would have gone to the oil injector open. I idle the engine and that line will fill up at the same rate as the other three lines.

I can take the line that does not fill, and put it on another port on the OMP and it fills just fine and dandy.

I'm working on a plan as to how to figure out what is happening.

I took the *piston* out and looked at it. The front two ports in the OMP body lead to the same feed hole. Same with the rear two ports, they are fed from a common feed hole meant for them.

I ran a single stand wire thru the holes in the OMP four ports and ran a wire thru the four holes in the *piston* and they are not blocked. I ran a single strand wire thru the banjo fittings into the line and out the nipple side of the banjo fittings and can see the wire come out clean (clear OMP lines so I can see it).

I've been checking this with the lever on the OMP tied full up. I might try to reinstall the rod to the lever and see if that makes a difference.....or not.

I now EXCELL at removing and reinstalling OMP's.

Question: do you have the front two lines going to the rotor housing oil injectors and the two rear OMP lines going to the oil injectors on the manifold?

 

Just some jpgs taken before I gave up today. Tomorrow is another day.

It's the rear bottom one in this jpg. I've moved things around. Origianlly it was the front lower one.

Originally when it was the front lower one, I move the line from the front lower to ?? another port on the OMP and the line filled and acted normal. Leading me to think it's not the injector/checkvalve.

I've lost track of where I am. I need to write things down and think about a PLAN.

OMP interior is spotless now for sure and all passages are open in the lines and the OMP.

 

lol. yea i feel the same way about excelling. I forget how my lines are ran. ill have to look. How your line is with the car running is how mines was. little spirts just running threw it. I blew up 2 of my fingers today they got mashed inbetween a motor and fire wall im in sever pain so i can't work on my car