just startn

iTrader: (33)

So i thought my rear rotor didn't seal to well after the build. It seems like it had oil coming out of the spark plug holes when you crank it over with no plugs in it+ it smokes excessively only when you start it up and oil gets sprayed everywere
(open turbo no exhaust) freaking mess. Today i noticed why is my 2 stroke jug empty and i filled up quarter of the way lastnight and never even started the car. Theres NO oil leaks, my dip stick has the SAME oil level. ive noticed this before but i never put any thought into it. my oil levels been the same. Now my wonders! i have a braided cable for my OMP instead of the metal rod. i didn't really now were to set the OMP pump at (how far open) so i just kinda pulled the lever a little bit and tightend the cable. im thinking the levers pulled to far and all the oils draining into the motor. but were would it go since my oil level never moves?

i was going to fill the jug all the way up (half gallon) and let it all drain out and see what fills up. Figured i would try this first lol.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, if too much oil is getting injected into the engine it'll smoke a bit. But IIRC it's relatively harmless. Hope you get good tips on fixing/adjusting your OMP.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

i noticed that one line the rear bottom one isn't getting any oil to it. Idk why. all the other lines are full and pumping but this line just pumps air threw it and little bubbles of oil i don't understand how they all work and only 3 get oil it's retarted. I messed with my car alot today and have so many problems idk were to start.

Amur_

Is the car an s4 or an s5?

I think the simplest remedy is to remove the OMP entirely and add the premix to the gas tank each time you buy gas.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

s4 and no im not removing it.

HAILERS

Part of your problem might be your two stoke reservoir is located too high above theoil injectors themselves. There is no check valve in the pump or lines. WAter and oil flow downhill.

What kind of aftermarket pump are you using?

A blockage in the injector that isn't feeding could cause your problem or a blockage in that line itself. Naw, I mean the port inside the pump that feeds that line has blockage.

Also you need to check the lines for oil only after driving the car for, what? thirty minutes or so. Then look right away before it has a chance to drain back into the pan.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

I did the DIY 2 stroke injection. heres the write up but i know you know that im talking about.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...DIY+mop+stroke

the jug is were the cold cold start asist jung was . i odn't think it's much higher than the oil injectors. I put alot in it yesterday and over night it drained out and the oil level DID move.its over F right up to were the dipstick changes from flat to circle. when the lever is pulled it lets more oil in correct? So if i have the lever 1/4 pulled when the car is not running then it would obviusly drain out ??

HAILERS

At idle or engine off the lever on the OMP should be spring loaded to the full closed position.

Try to move you reservoir lower temporarily and make sure the lever is in the full down positoin. Then let it sit overnight and see if the oil level still falls. Shouldn't.

OR make Sure the lever on the OMP is full closed and leave your reservoir where it is and look at the level in the moring.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

the lever was open but i adjusted it so its all the way down now. i havn't moved the tank. it's about level with the oil injectors. i put some in it and stood and watched the tank. i seen a bubble about every 40sec-1min. so i know it's still draining in. if i lower the tank any more i don't think the oil will be running down hill. well i guess it would but it would jsut barly be running down hill i mean just barly

HAILERS

Sounds a bi to me like you didn't get the spring put on the lever right, so now it won't spring load to the full down positon. Just a guess.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

well somethigns up. the levers all the way down, i lowered the jug and it still drained out. idk what to do. might need a new omp but idk why. i been dickering with this and havn't had a sec to figure out my headlight situation

HAILERS

************************************************** ************************************************** **************************************************

I've thought about this for a bit. I truly believe the problem is with the oil injector. To prove it, you could swap it with the one that's working. What I mean is, that say that injector is on the intake manifold and NOT the one on the rotor housing. Swap it with the other one on the intake manifold and see if the problem travels from the line that was acting funny to the other line.

Make sense? If not reply. I think what is happening, is that that injector is NOT getting the air from the spider. As in it's blocked off from that source of air. What might be happening is the air is not being equalized on either side of the injector, and the rotor is just sucking the hell out of that particular line. Sucking OIL out of the OMP. Sounds backwards because you are not seeing hardly any oil in that line but see the other three lines full of oil. But what is happening is the rotor is sucking the oil out of that line faster than the OMP will refill it. That is why you see oil in the line but not much. I'd bet if you look carefully you'll see the oil go back and forth in that line rapidly. ....bad oil injector says I.

As you've seen, the oil just OOOCHES up the line, it is not flowing and will not flow. That explains the part above where I say the oil is being sucked out of that line faster than the OMP can refill it.

HAILERS

Or a better idea on how to prove me right or wrong. Don't swap the injectors at the manifold/housing, just swap the non performing line with any of the other lines that are working. Do it at the OMP itself.

IF the so called BAD line now fills up with oil, and the other line is now the problem, that proves me right.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Now were on the right track here!!! Alright for starters i have a **** pot of oil injectors so i used 4 of the best ones. Now for were the problem lies. In the 4-1 spider somehow i broke one of the 4 nipples off. So it took me about a day to figure out what i was going to do. I drilled it and tapped it and put a brass barb fitting in it like the really small one in this picture http://www.overbyinkjetsolutions.com.../catalog/7.jpg
and i bet thats were the problem lies.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Or ill just follow the line and see if it's connected to the one injector thats hooked up to the brass fitting on the spider witch i already know it is. It's the bottom left line it goes to the injector on the rear of the manifold

just startn

iTrader: (33)

But this wouldn't be the reason for all my oil draining into the motor. right now the lever on the OMP is free (not hooked up) and it darined into the motor. think i need a new omp or somthing.

HAILERS

I can't explain the draining oil. Got no clue. Or clueless am I.

Oh, the problem won't be with a air line missing off the oil injector, It will be a problem with the checkvalve inside the oil injector not opening to let clean, filtered, METERED air in to the injector. A blocked passage not allowing the air to pass thru, means the rotor on its intake stroke is SUCKING on the OIL line like nobody's business. OMP can't keep it filled or even partially filled up like the other lines.

Personally I'd just swap the line at the OMP to prove this right or wrong. I know the length of the lines might make this a bit difficult, but maybe doable.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

so if this was the case then i would need an oil injector i that what your sayin?

HAILERS

Yeah. And this way you don't have to remove the intake to prove it. Just swap that *bad* line to a port on the OMP that has a *good* line. If the problem moves to the port on the OMP where there was a good line, then the oil injector has to be the bad actor.

I can and have been wrong in the past. Doing things this way results in no hard work being wasted if I was/am wrong.

HAILERS

I have not been paying enough attention to what you wrote.

You mentioned breaking a nipple off the air spider and replacing it in some way. Well if the repair you made to that nipple won't pass air, AND that nipple is attached to the injector that has air in its OIL line, then that is your problem. You need to make sure that each *air* line to the injectors tops is passing air to the injector from the spider.

And my post #19 directly above even confuses me now. Say you go to the OMP and move the line that has air in it to one of the other three ports on the OMP. And now after you drive/run the engine for a while that line still has air in it...........then the injector at the other end of that line is bad (or there is no metered air from the spider getting to that injector).

IF that line that had air in it gets moved to another port, and now HAS oil in it, then the injectors are good and for unknown reasons the OMP isn't feeding oil out that port.

OH yes. The draining of the oil from the reservoir you made. It's going into the pan you say. I believe that. The problem is this. The OMP needs to be isolated from the holes that feed it on the original stock setup. I got a thin piece of aluminum (roofing flashing) and inserted it b/t the OMP and the block of the engine where the feed and dump holes are on the block. This blockoff plate made out of roofing flashing, is only about .032" thick. Any piece of thin aluminum around that thickness will do.

The way I made it was to pull the drive gear out of the OMP. Then layed the OMP on top of the piece of aluminum. I got my scribe out and scribed a line around the body of OMP that mates with the block. Then I cut out along the scribe line. So now I had a piece of aluminum of the right shape and size. THEN I had to cut a hole in the middle of my new blockoff plate and that hole had to match the diameter of the drive gear I just mentioned removing. The tighter the fit the better.

Long and short of it is, that blockoff plate has to keep you two stroke oil from leaking into the pan. 'So it has to fit tight. I need to find a picture of this. I remember seeing that blockoff plate recently.........somewhere. The thread you pasted in post #7 above should have mentioned this. Fudge. What I just wrote might not be clear to you. Gotta find a picture somewhere. I KNOW where you two stroke oil from your reservoir is getting dumped into the pan. A lot of this is in knowing how the OMP gets fed oil and how that oil that feeds the original OMP gets dumped back into the pan. I'm getting into something that is time consumming. Uggh. I know how to fix it but it's a bit hard for my to explain. Uggggggggh. ****.

EDIT: I added a jpg from that thread showing the metal gasket that needs to be made to isolate the OMP from the pan.

HAILERS

Your two stoke oil from your new reservoir is going into the hole in the jpg attached colored in RED. That hole leads directly into the pan.

If the shim/blockoff plate in the first jpg is not made right, that is the result your getting.

I deviated from what Patman said in reference to his FIRST GOAL. He said he cut a passage b/t the oil feed hole and the dump hole (pan hole in my jpg) to relieve the oil pressure from the front cover. I can't bring myself to do something like that, because it meant I couldn't go back to the original stock configuration. So I just made the metal gasket and then filled in a small passage on the stock OMP itself with epoxy. NO picture of that yet. I'd have to get an old pump and do it again in order to take a picture. Uggggh. Might do that if I find time.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Well i think...idk on the housing i think my holes are connected i forget. i will have to take the pump off and take a picture. i might need a new front cover or something.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

Alright i been thinking about this. I understand everything youve said.
1st Oil draining into the pan:
The front cover is fucked lol. i will have to take a picture when i get home. I realized now that the two holes connect. im going to try and explain how they connect.
_________ < Front Cover (omp area)
l
l
l O--O The section Beetween the two holes is carved out
l_________ about 4mm. So if you looked standing from the front of the car (not the side) and you looked were the omp attaches it looks like this between the two holes ). This indication is BEETWEEEEEN THE TWO HOLES. hopefully you understand

I have a peice if flashing for the plate also. it fits tight.

2nd: no oil in line:
I checked to make sure the fittign in the spider was functional. blow air in and out with little for while the other 3 are blocked off. Im going to have to do some R&D.

just startn

iTrader: (33)

This stupid forum won't messed up the last post and it will not edit. hopefully u can make due of whats there

HAILERS

Time out on the line that won't fill up. Sometimes life is much easier than HAILERS thinks.

I've been having a similar problem with a line not filling. I reinstalled a OMP a couple of days ago and the front lower line would not fill. IT had traces of oil in it that seemed to move about like someone was spitting in the line, but it never filled.

So I took some of my own advice today. I moved the non filler to a port that had a line filled with oil. Put the omp lever to full up (tied it to full up) and ran the engine. Line filled up like a normal line. Just slowly oooches up til full. Hmmmmm. That meant it was NOT the injector.

So put things back to normal, then removed the line and banjo bolt from the port that would not fill. Now that port on the OMP was wide open. ... Lever full up....started the engine. I watched the oil coming out of the open port. What? Maybe fifteen drops a minute. I didnt time it, just guessing. So I let it drip out for fifteen minutes. On the driveway. Not smart enough to put a rag under the car. Oh well.

Then reattached the line and started the engine again. Lever full up......fast idle......line filled up. All lines now fill up. I suspect F.O.D or trash in the passages I guess. All's well now.

Naw I would'nt buy another front cover if you going to keep the new setup. What your problem is, it would seem, is that new reservoir oil is excaping past the blockoff plate/shim/ggasket/whatever you choose to call it, and falling into the pan. There should be no passage b/t your new reservoir and the hole that leads back into the pan.

If you ever go back to the stock OMP and have already ground a path b/t the two holes in the front cover, I'd give JBWELD a try to patch up that ground path. You'd have to really clean the front cover with ?? acetone or something that REALLY gets rid of the oil so the JB will stick better.

Sorry 'bout the false ideas in my other posts above. Just gotta keep plugging til the right answer turns up.