ignition problem ?
07-10-06, 06:50 PM
#1
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ignition problem ?
alright weird problem.
when i try to crank my car i only get fire when i let off the key from trying to start it.I have installed new wires,plugs and ecu.please help me ,i am going crazy.oh and i have checked all fuse's and battery they are good.thanks.
when i try to crank my car i only get fire when i let off the key from trying to start it.I have installed new wires,plugs and ecu.please help me ,i am going crazy.oh and i have checked all fuse's and battery they are good.thanks.
07-10-06, 07:43 PM
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just wondering if it could be the cpu or if the car has some type of alarm?i have been working on this car for about six months and still have not got it started.to date i have never heard it run.
07-11-06, 08:25 PM
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How are you testing to see that you get spark when you let off the key? Timing light? Holding a plug on the block with a friend starting it? I recommend using a timing light and try every plug wire while a friend turns it over. You can also tell if you have a fouled plug with this method once you get her running. Leading plugs would be the only plugs keeping her from firing. stephen.
07-12-06, 06:45 AM
#7
Originally Posted by KillerRx4
Have you checked that the coils have power when the key is in start position?
Could be a ignition barrel problem im thinking.
Could be a ignition barrel problem im thinking.
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07-12-06, 12:35 PM
#8
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no killer is right ,sorry if my description is hard to follow.it is kind of hard to explain .the car does not start.when i first turn the key switch to start the coils will fire and then the coils will fire when i release the key from the start postion.the car will try to start after i release the key.but the whole time i hold the key in the start postion the coils do not fire.
07-12-06, 01:08 PM
#9
So...
When you first turn the key switch to "Start", the coils work.
When you release the key back into the "On" position, the coils work.
The whole time you hold the key in the "Start" position the coils don't fire.
Ok, gotcha. The coils only fire for the split second when you're moving the key into the Start position and for the split second when you're moving the key out of the Start position (into "On"). Is this correct?
When you first turn the key switch to "Start", the coils work.
When you release the key back into the "On" position, the coils work.
The whole time you hold the key in the "Start" position the coils don't fire.
Ok, gotcha. The coils only fire for the split second when you're moving the key into the Start position and for the split second when you're moving the key out of the Start position (into "On"). Is this correct?
07-12-06, 05:41 PM
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just for kicks. i would like to make sure my ecu is getting power.can some one point me in the direction of figuring out wich wire should have power thanks.
07-12-06, 06:26 PM
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ok ,i think i figured out the problem.in the start position the wire marked st on the ignition has no conductivity.is there anyway to jump this to get the car running ?and where should this wire be going thanks.
07-13-06, 01:11 AM
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Whats the cars history, ie. did it just fail 1 day, or was work done & now it doesnt work, or is it a project that your trying to get going?
Are the coils powered through a relay?
I suggest putting a multimeter on +V side of coils & make sure you have 12v there in both ON & START key position.
Edit. you could also hotwire & see if it starts like that if you dont have a multimeter/testlamp.
Are the coils powered through a relay?
I suggest putting a multimeter on +V side of coils & make sure you have 12v there in both ON & START key position.
Edit. you could also hotwire & see if it starts like that if you dont have a multimeter/testlamp.
07-13-06, 06:52 AM
#14
Do you lose complete power to your car in the Start position? As in, if you have your headlights on in ACC, then they go out when you turn your key to Start.
If nothing works, it's probably a battery/terminal problem.
This could also help:
If nothing works, it's probably a battery/terminal problem.
This could also help:
Originally Posted by Hailers
Ok. Your voltmeter and fuel gauge do not work along with the idiot lights. BUT the headlights and interior lights work plus horn etc.
That is a common problem when you don't get power from the BLACK wire that leads from the 80amp Main Fuse in the engine fuse box to the BLACK wire on the three igniton switch plugs.
If you pull apart the two wire connector at the ignition switch and read the voltage at the BLACK wire it should read battery voltage what ever that happen to be at the moment.
IF it does not, then you have a bad wire/connection on that BLACK wire or its connection to the engine fuse box.
NORMALY if you disconnect that ignition switch plug that has a BLACK wire and a BLACK AND WHITE wire in it, then put a jumper wire b/t the BLACK and the BW wire, the fuel gauge should now rise and the voltmeter on the combination meter should now rise to battery voltage plus if you now turn the turn signals to left or right they should now work.
If that happens only when you jumper the BLACK and the BW wire, but NOT when the plug is connected up normally and the key is to ON...........then I say you have a bad ignition switch.
But you said that the battery voltage was 12 and you only read 8 at the BLACK wire so I'd suspect a bad BLACK wire b/t the engine fuse box and the ignition switch OR the alternator is dragging the voltage down thru a internal short (not likely).
I assume when you turned the headlights on they were bright and the retractors went up/down as you turned the lights on/off. Meaning the battery is good enough to supply enough voltage to the combination meter/turn signals/idiot lights. Things you are not getting power to.
That is a common problem when you don't get power from the BLACK wire that leads from the 80amp Main Fuse in the engine fuse box to the BLACK wire on the three igniton switch plugs.
If you pull apart the two wire connector at the ignition switch and read the voltage at the BLACK wire it should read battery voltage what ever that happen to be at the moment.
IF it does not, then you have a bad wire/connection on that BLACK wire or its connection to the engine fuse box.
NORMALY if you disconnect that ignition switch plug that has a BLACK wire and a BLACK AND WHITE wire in it, then put a jumper wire b/t the BLACK and the BW wire, the fuel gauge should now rise and the voltmeter on the combination meter should now rise to battery voltage plus if you now turn the turn signals to left or right they should now work.
If that happens only when you jumper the BLACK and the BW wire, but NOT when the plug is connected up normally and the key is to ON...........then I say you have a bad ignition switch.
But you said that the battery voltage was 12 and you only read 8 at the BLACK wire so I'd suspect a bad BLACK wire b/t the engine fuse box and the ignition switch OR the alternator is dragging the voltage down thru a internal short (not likely).
I assume when you turned the headlights on they were bright and the retractors went up/down as you turned the lights on/off. Meaning the battery is good enough to supply enough voltage to the combination meter/turn signals/idiot lights. Things you are not getting power to.
07-27-06, 04:34 PM
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o.k. my ignition came in today and the car still does the same thing.i have also noticed another symptom.when trying to crank the car if you push the acclerator down you get zero fire.
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