If you make 350whp or better- what do you use?
#1
i like rotors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you make 350whp or better- what do you use?
I am curious to see what some of you guys are running to make some good rwhp from s4 or s5 tII's.
I am interested in info. on custom or aftermarket stainless manifolds. I have seen a few on here, anyone know where to get them?
It doesn't seem like it would be hard at all to produce at least 350rwhp? I read the write up by ReTED on fc3s pro, but i want to hear from guys who drive these cars around every day.
Thanks.
I am interested in info. on custom or aftermarket stainless manifolds. I have seen a few on here, anyone know where to get them?
It doesn't seem like it would be hard at all to produce at least 350rwhp? I read the write up by ReTED on fc3s pro, but i want to hear from guys who drive these cars around every day.
Thanks.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ive been running 381+ rwhp @ 1 bar for over 2 years now on stock j-spec motor. No problems. Just a simple setup. click the link in my sig to see the dyno sheet and video along with all my mods.
Jason
Jason
#7
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by SonicRaT
Hey ted, how much do the stock ports affect the engine at those lelels?
Hey ted, how much do the stock ports affect the engine at those lelels?
-Ted
Trending Topics
#8
Originally posted by Rx_treme
ive been running 381+ rwhp @ 1 bar for over 2 years now on stock j-spec motor. No problems. Just a simple setup. click the link in my sig to see the dyno sheet and video along with all my mods.
Jason
ive been running 381+ rwhp @ 1 bar for over 2 years now on stock j-spec motor. No problems. Just a simple setup. click the link in my sig to see the dyno sheet and video along with all my mods.
Jason
#9
i am legendary
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 8,478
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by bcty
wheres the link?
wheres the link?
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/member...view&car_id=29
got that from another thread he posted in
#11
i like rotors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am primarily looking for manifolds. Here is what i am piecing together-
I want to run a t4 60-1 with the upgraded "S" housing. I had great results with its lil' brother. (I am currently running a t3/t4s 60-1 on my civic)
I have a RB downpipe i picked up here on the forum. I am going a cheap route on the exhaust with the corksport- I understand it to be loud as all hell, GREAT, i can return the favor to all my neighbors with Harley's
Fuel- I have already started with this. I ran -6an stainless from the hardlines. I am waiting for the other pieces to finish my line from the primary to the secondary rail. I found aluminum rails last night. I have a left over universal aeromtive FPR and inline fuel pump. Can I utilize the inline pump on the FC or should i maybe look into to getting an in tank replacement? I am not sure on injector size. I guess 850's for primary, not to sure on secondary.
For breathing i picked up a Blitz Intake of a member, although it was for an s5, i retro fit it for the S4 AFM.
Question is, when i upgrade my turbo, it will have a 4" inlet. The AFM won't, DO they make an aftermarket AFM or one that will work from another car?
For the pesky intake air temps, i am still searching also- "years of decay" has something in the works, i may check out. I have been pondering having the piping done and picking up a core. There is a guy who does phenomenal welding here, but for him to fab up the piping on this thing, i am sure it would be pricey. I am not to keen on the FMIC kits avail. for the FC.
As far as management I am beginning that quest now. If i get something with a pre-terminted harness, i can toss the factory harness right? It is so brittle i hate to even touch it. I have seen alot on here and other sites about microtech. Seems to be cheaper than some of the other units. I had the PFS purple puter on my FD, it was OK. I was going to go with TEC III but the tuning would be an issue here.
I figure, i replace the driveline as it breaks. I did get an exedy clutch, i hear they have great streetable holding power. This is my new daily driver and i want to keep the clutch a little soft.
If i left anything out feel free to help me out. I am hoping for about 400rwhp on pump gas. I don't plan on keeping the boost that high at all times, but want it available at will. I am trying to do it right from the start to help with reliablilty. I didn't mention the cooling system but i am tending to it also.
Thanks!
I want to run a t4 60-1 with the upgraded "S" housing. I had great results with its lil' brother. (I am currently running a t3/t4s 60-1 on my civic)
I have a RB downpipe i picked up here on the forum. I am going a cheap route on the exhaust with the corksport- I understand it to be loud as all hell, GREAT, i can return the favor to all my neighbors with Harley's
Fuel- I have already started with this. I ran -6an stainless from the hardlines. I am waiting for the other pieces to finish my line from the primary to the secondary rail. I found aluminum rails last night. I have a left over universal aeromtive FPR and inline fuel pump. Can I utilize the inline pump on the FC or should i maybe look into to getting an in tank replacement? I am not sure on injector size. I guess 850's for primary, not to sure on secondary.
For breathing i picked up a Blitz Intake of a member, although it was for an s5, i retro fit it for the S4 AFM.
Question is, when i upgrade my turbo, it will have a 4" inlet. The AFM won't, DO they make an aftermarket AFM or one that will work from another car?
For the pesky intake air temps, i am still searching also- "years of decay" has something in the works, i may check out. I have been pondering having the piping done and picking up a core. There is a guy who does phenomenal welding here, but for him to fab up the piping on this thing, i am sure it would be pricey. I am not to keen on the FMIC kits avail. for the FC.
As far as management I am beginning that quest now. If i get something with a pre-terminted harness, i can toss the factory harness right? It is so brittle i hate to even touch it. I have seen alot on here and other sites about microtech. Seems to be cheaper than some of the other units. I had the PFS purple puter on my FD, it was OK. I was going to go with TEC III but the tuning would be an issue here.
I figure, i replace the driveline as it breaks. I did get an exedy clutch, i hear they have great streetable holding power. This is my new daily driver and i want to keep the clutch a little soft.
If i left anything out feel free to help me out. I am hoping for about 400rwhp on pump gas. I don't plan on keeping the boost that high at all times, but want it available at will. I am trying to do it right from the start to help with reliablilty. I didn't mention the cooling system but i am tending to it also.
Thanks!
#13
Currently Winning
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 2,438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rx-rated, your RB downpipe will not bolt to your T04 unless you're running a hybrid.
FWIW i'm using the /stock/ S5 manifold. But I don't have any proof of 350+rwhp yet.
FWIW i'm using the /stock/ S5 manifold. But I don't have any proof of 350+rwhp yet.
#14
i like rotors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was foloowing your post on the bnr. I don't want to keep the stock manifold or the cast style due to heatsoak. I would think the stainless would dissapate the heat a little better. The RB downpipe isn't what i thought it would be, after getting home and bolting it on, i kinda regret buying it. Oh Well- It will suffice until i finish my upgrade-
I am definitly curious as to what you will put down with your setup though!
I am definitly curious as to what you will put down with your setup though!
#15
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by rx-rated
I don't want to keep the stock manifold or the cast style due to heatsoak. I would think the stainless would dissapate the heat a little better.
I don't want to keep the stock manifold or the cast style due to heatsoak. I would think the stainless would dissapate the heat a little better.
The cast manifold is superior because it will resist cracking better than a tubular unit.
Stainless steel tends to hold heat in MORE than mild steel.
There are only 4 units that bolt right into the FC3S 13BT.
HKS cast divided
HKS cast collected
XS Engineering cast divided
HKS SS tubular for T51R Kai
Almost everything else is made for the FD3S will require a spacer plate.
There are other units available made from smaller vendors.
Of course, you can always make them yourself.
There is NOTHING wrong with the HKS units.
Many FC owners have made BIG power from them.
I see the word "cheap" in your posts, and this is something you cannot be cutting corners on - it's going to bite you in the *** in the long run.
-Ted
#17
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by rx-rated
I thought with the manifold being more off the rotor housing it would help keep temps down a little?
I thought with the manifold being more off the rotor housing it would help keep temps down a little?
When the manifold is seeing 1000F+ temps, would you actually feel the 100F difference?
The set-up just got closer to the engine bay frame rail, so you end up cooking your paint more?
-Ted
#18
Currently Winning
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 2,438
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by rx-rated
I was foloowing your post on the bnr. I don't want to keep the stock manifold or the cast style due to heatsoak. I would think the stainless would dissapate the heat a little better. The RB downpipe isn't what i thought it would be, after getting home and bolting it on, i kinda regret buying it. Oh Well- It will suffice until i finish my upgrade-
I am definitly curious as to what you will put down with your setup though!
I was foloowing your post on the bnr. I don't want to keep the stock manifold or the cast style due to heatsoak. I would think the stainless would dissapate the heat a little better. The RB downpipe isn't what i thought it would be, after getting home and bolting it on, i kinda regret buying it. Oh Well- It will suffice until i finish my upgrade-
I am definitly curious as to what you will put down with your setup though!
so am i.
i thought the hotter your manifold stays the faster your turbo spools, is that right? i thought that was why cast was better.
Last edited by $150FC; 03-26-04 at 10:50 PM.
#19
Turbo Swamp Thing
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: 195 Miles West of Bridgeport, WA
Posts: 724
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea if the manifold is heatsoaked... isn't that a good thing? Since you want a much heat as possible being used to spool the turbo rather than heat up the metal?
#20
i like rotors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by RETed
Maybe like 100F?
When the manifold is seeing 1000F+ temps, would you actually feel the 100F difference?
The set-up just got closer to the engine bay frame rail, so you end up cooking your paint more?
-Ted
Maybe like 100F?
When the manifold is seeing 1000F+ temps, would you actually feel the 100F difference?
The set-up just got closer to the engine bay frame rail, so you end up cooking your paint more?
-Ted
So then you add a swain high-temp coating to the turibine and manifold, as well *** the downpipe- I know the 13b runs a bit hotter than a piston eninge, but the swain coatings should hold up-
#21
i like rotors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by MaYnard5000
Yea if the manifold is heatsoaked... isn't that a good thing? Since you want a much heat as possible being used to spool the turbo rather than heat up the metal?
Yea if the manifold is heatsoaked... isn't that a good thing? Since you want a much heat as possible being used to spool the turbo rather than heat up the metal?
I just thougt you wanted to keep your exhaust heat in, to keep the gases from scavaging.
#23
i like rotors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes- So if you retain the heat in a tubular manifold, you keep the velocity as well as get that big *** chunk of cast steel away from the engine?
Seems to me like it would have to be beneficial? Then again, if i was an engineer...I have another FD
Seems to me like it would have to be beneficial? Then again, if i was an engineer...I have another FD
#24
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by rx-rated
So then you add a swain high-temp coating to the turibine and manifold, as well *** the downpipe- I know the 13b runs a bit hotter than a piston eninge, but the swain coatings should hold up-
So then you add a swain high-temp coating to the turibine and manifold, as well *** the downpipe- I know the 13b runs a bit hotter than a piston eninge, but the swain coatings should hold up-
-Ted
#25
i like rotors
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Virginia
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is what one of my concerns were. I thought my egt's on my fd were like 1800. I couldn't remember though-
Any luck with like DEI thermal wrap?
Also where can i find the 13bt exhaust flange? It's looking like i am going to get my manifold made for about 450$, if i buy the supplies.
Any luck with like DEI thermal wrap?
Also where can i find the 13bt exhaust flange? It's looking like i am going to get my manifold made for about 450$, if i buy the supplies.