If you make 350whp or better- what do you use?
 

I am curious to see what some of you guys are running to make some good rwhp from s4 or s5 tII's.

I am interested in info. on custom or aftermarket stainless manifolds. I have seen a few on here, anyone know where to get them?

It doesn't seem like it would be hard at all to produce at least 350rwhp? I read the write up by ReTED on fc3s pro, but i want to hear from guys who drive these cars around every day.

Thanks.

full turbo upgrade
stand-alone EMS
big fuel pump
larger fuel injectors
FMIC

On top of the required...
full exhaust
intake
upgrade clutch


-Ted

I thinks he's asking about manifolds.

Hey ted, how much do the stock ports affect the engine at those lelels?

ive been running 381+ rwhp @ 1 bar for over 2 years now on stock j-spec motor. No problems. Just a simple setup. click the link in my sig to see the dyno sheet and video along with all my mods.

Jason

wheres the link?

Not very...you can probably boost up to about 400 - 450hp before the stock ports pose significant restriction.


-Ted

I´d really like to see your simple mods.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/member...view&car_id=29


got that from another thread he posted in

oops sorry, yea the link above.

Its all simple stuff, i.e. haltech, turbo, manifold, IC, exhaust.

I am primarily looking for manifolds. Here is what i am piecing together-

I want to run a t4 60-1 with the upgraded "S" housing. I had great results with its lil' brother. (I am currently running a t3/t4s 60-1 on my civic)

I have a RB downpipe i picked up here on the forum. I am going a cheap route on the exhaust with the corksport- I understand it to be loud as all hell, GREAT, i can return the favor to all my neighbors with Harley's :D

Fuel- I have already started with this. I ran -6an stainless from the hardlines. I am waiting for the other pieces to finish my line from the primary to the secondary rail. I found aluminum rails last night. I have a left over universal aeromtive FPR and inline fuel pump. Can I utilize the inline pump on the FC or should i maybe look into to getting an in tank replacement? I am not sure on injector size. I guess 850's for primary, not to sure on secondary.

For breathing i picked up a Blitz Intake of a member, although it was for an s5, i retro fit it for the S4 AFM.
Question is, when i upgrade my turbo, it will have a 4" inlet. The AFM won't, DO they make an aftermarket AFM or one that will work from another car?

For the pesky intake air temps, i am still searching also- "years of decay" has something in the works, i may check out. I have been pondering having the piping done and picking up a core. There is a guy who does phenomenal welding here, but for him to fab up the piping on this thing, i am sure it would be pricey. I am not to keen on the FMIC kits avail. for the FC.

As far as management I am beginning that quest now. If i get something with a pre-terminted harness, i can toss the factory harness right? It is so brittle i hate to even touch it. I have seen alot on here and other sites about microtech. Seems to be cheaper than some of the other units. I had the PFS purple puter on my FD, it was OK. I was going to go with TEC III but the tuning would be an issue here.

I figure, i replace the driveline as it breaks. I did get an exedy clutch, i hear they have great streetable holding power. This is my new daily driver and i want to keep the clutch a little soft.

If i left anything out feel free to help me out. I am hoping for about 400rwhp on pump gas. I don't plan on keeping the boost that high at all times, but want it available at will. I am trying to do it right from the start to help with reliablilty. I didn't mention the cooling system but i am tending to it also.

Thanks!

:cool:

FWIW, I'm running the SX Cast/Divided manifold.

rx-rated, your RB downpipe will not bolt to your T04 unless you're running a hybrid.

FWIW i'm using the /stock/ S5 manifold. But I don't have any proof of 350+rwhp yet.

I was foloowing your post on the bnr. I don't want to keep the stock manifold or the cast style due to heatsoak. I would think the stainless would dissapate the heat a little better. The RB downpipe isn't what i thought it would be, after getting home and bolting it on, i kinda regret buying it. Oh Well- It will suffice until i finish my upgrade-


I am definitly curious as to what you will put down with your setup though!

You got some pretty twisted views on this.
The cast manifold is superior because it will resist cracking better than a tubular unit.
Stainless steel tends to hold heat in MORE than mild steel.

There are only 4 units that bolt right into the FC3S 13BT.
HKS cast divided
HKS cast collected
XS Engineering cast divided
HKS SS tubular for T51R Kai

Almost everything else is made for the FD3S will require a spacer plate.
There are other units available made from smaller vendors.
Of course, you can always make them yourself.

There is NOTHING wrong with the HKS units.
Many FC owners have made BIG power from them.

I see the word "cheap" in your posts, and this is something you cannot be cutting corners on - it's going to bite you in the ass in the long run.


-Ted

I thought with the manifold being more off the rotor housing it would help keep temps down a little?

Maybe like 100F?
When the manifold is seeing 1000F+ temps, would you actually feel the 100F difference?

The set-up just got closer to the engine bay frame rail, so you end up cooking your paint more?


-Ted

so am i.

i thought the hotter your manifold stays the faster your turbo spools, is that right? i thought that was why cast was better.

Yea if the manifold is heatsoaked... isn't that a good thing? Since you want a much heat as possible being used to spool the turbo rather than heat up the metal?

So then you add a swain high-temp coating to the turibine and manifold, as well ass the downpipe- I know the 13b runs a bit hotter than a piston eninge, but the swain coatings should hold up-

I just thougt you wanted to keep your exhaust heat in, to keep the gases from scavaging.

When you cool a gas down, you are also decreasing its velocity.

Yes- So if you retain the heat in a tubular manifold, you keep the velocity as well as get that big ass chunk of cast steel away from the engine?

Seems to me like it would have to be beneficial? Then again, if i was an engineer...I have another FD:p:

We've used 2000F ceramic coatings, and they have all failed.


-Ted

That is what one of my concerns were. I thought my egt's on my fd were like 1800. I couldn't remember though-

Any luck with like DEI thermal wrap?

Also where can i find the 13bt exhaust flange? It's looking like i am going to get my manifold made for about 450$, if i buy the supplies.