Idling Failing...
#1
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Idling Failing...
yo, i got 88 gxl, and lately sometimes when i start up the engine, it revs up liek it usually does and then it drops the RPM and "dies out" i keep it alive by gasing it so the RPMs won't drop, what should i do
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Turbo Swamp Thing
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Originally posted by den
Try doing a search, there are alot of idle related threads on the forum.
Try doing a search, there are alot of idle related threads on the forum.
#5
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Number 801......Download the factory service manual, in particular the Fuel Section. Forget the other sections.
On the whole, what you need to do is set your idle per the fsm. Generally ...set the timing, insert the initial set coupler (a piece of wire in two sockets), adjust the air screw on top of the dynamic chamber to set the idle speed and maybe use the variable resistor with it to obtain a 750 idle speed.
Remove the initial set coupler and see if the idle speed changes. It usually will cycle up and down about three times if you BAC is functional. Let it idle it it will. After a couple of minutes pull the BAC plug off. The idle should change tone/speed if the BAC is functional. If it does not...then find out why the BAC is not working. The BAC tries to maintain a 750 idle speed but it ain't a gonna do that if the original idle was not set properly.
It never hurt to change the LEAD plugs prior to setting the idle.
If you can't get the car to idle using the usual FSM procedure....then somebody has monkey fucked with the throttle body/fast idle cam/thermowax/throttle stop screw......and you have a long haul ahead of you.
On the whole, what you need to do is set your idle per the fsm. Generally ...set the timing, insert the initial set coupler (a piece of wire in two sockets), adjust the air screw on top of the dynamic chamber to set the idle speed and maybe use the variable resistor with it to obtain a 750 idle speed.
Remove the initial set coupler and see if the idle speed changes. It usually will cycle up and down about three times if you BAC is functional. Let it idle it it will. After a couple of minutes pull the BAC plug off. The idle should change tone/speed if the BAC is functional. If it does not...then find out why the BAC is not working. The BAC tries to maintain a 750 idle speed but it ain't a gonna do that if the original idle was not set properly.
It never hurt to change the LEAD plugs prior to setting the idle.
If you can't get the car to idle using the usual FSM procedure....then somebody has monkey fucked with the throttle body/fast idle cam/thermowax/throttle stop screw......and you have a long haul ahead of you.
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Thats all fine and dandy if your car is fine and for some reason the idle setting was mysteriously lowered, but isn't that just ignoring the problem which is most likely a vac leak?
#7
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I'm of the notion that a vac leak, depending which side of the throttle plates its at.....results in a higher rpm, not lower. That's how the bac works...adds more air after the throttle body. A bit of a generalization (sp).
I think that what I'm saying....is that he needs to start from square one and work his way out of his problem that way. There's no indication of how long he has had this problem . Whether it happen last night or gradually reached this point.
I think that what I'm saying....is that he needs to start from square one and work his way out of his problem that way. There's no indication of how long he has had this problem . Whether it happen last night or gradually reached this point.
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