twigg

well my rex started sounding LIKE CRAP, so i went to find the trouble, i had a hole rusted out in the exhaust, fixed it. ran a lil better, then i check under the hood and there is a crack right where the (stock) rubber intake hits my turbo. I knew something might happen seeing this is a rebuilt T25/28 turbo and gets red hot all the time past 13psi. My questions is how the hell can i fix this. I can't afford anything but to do it at home. heres a pic. I hope fixing this solves my "no power" till 4000rpm and the boost gauge shows it's producing good boost, but it jumps up and down 0.75 psi up and down up and down when idle.

1SWEET7

iTrader: (1)

That is making you have a huge vac leak. That piece always seems to crack. You should scrap that pos and make a TID. I used to have a Home Depot Racing TID made from plumbing parts... Basicly 3" straight piece, 3"-2" coupler 3"-3" coupler, 3" 45 deg. bend. Not ideal, but works. Now I have a 3" metal TID with silicone couplers.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

That's a stock S5 turbo...what's all this T25/28 bs you're talking about? It's common for any turbocharger turbine housing to glow red under load, you need to put the stock heat shields on that thing ASAP.


and just make a new TID like 1sweet7 said. another variation would be 2.25-2.5 coupler, 2.5" alum pipe with 45 degree bend, 2.5-3.25 coupler.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

You are running above 13psi on what looks like a stock turbo,no tuning capabilities(stock ecu) and a messed up TID?No good my friend.Get another TID lower the boost a little bit,install heat shields and enjoy the car.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

sounds iek crap, no power, very low idle, shaky boost gauge, sounds like a blown engine running on 1 rotor? that would explain a very shaky boost gauge?

when idling if its blown it woudl bounce back n forth between a semi normal reading and 0. boosting would be very shaky also....